Skwerl's first hot rod

GallopingFord

I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive
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Ill put money towards it, but I want a time share agreement.

Don't worry I won't drive it. I just wanna sit and listen to the cams idling.
 

skwerl

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OK, getting back on track. Here's a basic starting list for my planned build-

FRPP Aluminator shortblock- $4600 (Tousley Ford)
FRPP high flow heads- $3000 (Tousley Ford)
VMP TVS1900 blower upgrade for the M90 setup- $3600
Associated hardware, gaskets, etc. needed for the swap- $1200
FRPP Hot Rod cams (already bought)- $500

Rough budget for parts = $12,900

I'll help with the labor but the majority of the wrenching will be done by my trusted mechanic, simply because I don't have the space or tools for it. I'm budgeting $2000 for labor although I'm sure we will do some sort of swap out for much of that.

My original idea was to to the blower first and pulley it at 8-9 psi, then crank it up later after the build. I may still have to do that, as higher boost will require additional upgrades such as bigger injectors and fuel pump which aren't in the list above. Boy, power sure is expensive!
 

Boss281

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Oh man, this takes me back! So many "builds" over the years. My 2005 though never really got off the ground. I made some headway with a "streetable" NA build that pulled consistent high 11s, but I have to admit I'm bored drag racing it and miss driving it around the street. I'm going to be spending money getting it comfortable again for local curves and highways, and think about either sponsoring Laura (Croft) and her racing, or we'll find a Fox and build a nice bracket racer. Stop thinking about the money, just follow your heart as money allows. We only live once...
 

Timmbo

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OK, getting back on track. Here's a basic starting list for my planned build-

FRPP Aluminator shortblock- $4600 (Tousley Ford)
FRPP high flow heads- $3000 (Tousley Ford)
VMP TVS1900 blower upgrade for the M90 setup- $3600
Associated hardware, gaskets, etc. needed for the swap- $1200
FRPP Hot Rod cams (already bought)- $500

Rough budget for parts = $12,900

I'll help with the labor but the majority of the wrenching will be done by my trusted mechanic, simply because I don't have the space or tools for it. I'm budgeting $2000 for labor although I'm sure we will do some sort of swap out for much of that.

My original idea was to to the blower first and pulley it at 8-9 psi, then crank it up later after the build. I may still have to do that, as higher boost will require additional upgrades such as bigger injectors and fuel pump which aren't in the list above. Boy, power sure is expensive!

Good luck with the build! I'm very anxious to see you hit 600 RWHP with that 1.9 TVS VMP is releasing. If you do... I know I will be able to real easy with the B326. That number is my goal and plenty of power for street. It's nice to know us M90 users can achieve that goal with a simple head unit swap, cai, injectors and fuel pump at half the cost of going to a 2.3L TVS kit. I think it would probably be wise however to upgrade to a Afco dual fan dual pass heat exchanger. At 3600.00 for the 1.9L from VMP it could be a reality for me for late next summer. BUT...my gut says do the T56 Magnum trans first. I don't want to be twisting off the tranny input shaft on my 3656 which 600 rwhp will easily do from what I gather here. Your lucky you've got the trans already.

So when do you think you will start the build?
 

skwerl

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As soon as my budget allows. Right now I have about $5k available and can put more on credit if necessary (I live on credit anyways). I'm basically shopping for deals while waiting for VMP to get the blowers in. I currently have a bid in on a new leftover JDM aluminum stroker shortblock owned by a guy who is trading in his 2010 Roush on a 2012 Roush. If I get it, fine. If not, I'll keep waiting for the next deal or else I'll just buy the FRPP Aluminator from Tousley.

The good news is that since paying off my bucket truck in Feb. I'm able to set aside about $3K per month towards the car unless something else comes up. And this is my busy season so any extra work means that much more extra money.
 

Mike K

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Check out the what has pissed you off thread. You might not want to wait on those Tousley orders.
 

skwerl

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Got my hot rod cams today. They will go in the closet until the build. The previous owner used Vise Grips to hold them in place it appears but at least the chewed up spots are not on a load bearing surface. I was not pleased when I saw this.

IMG_2335.jpg
 

Wes06

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i wouldnt have been pleased with that not being disclosed either, but it actually isnt in a important location so wont cause any problems.
maybe lightly sand them down so no flakes of aluminum come off when the engines running
 

skwerl

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Ha! I just scored some brand new 52lb injectors from Gerald (autoXracer)! They were left over from his monster build because he went with 80lb injectors instead.

One piece at a time. I'm glad I have so many build threads here on S197 to pull from in order to do this right the first time. With Scott's thread I'm tempted to put the engine together myself. The cams and timing chains are what scare me the most.
 

BruceH

BBB Big Bore Boss 322
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Ha! I just scored some brand new 52lb injectors from Gerald (autoXracer)! They were left over from his monster build because he went with 80lb injectors instead.

One piece at a time. I'm glad I have so many build threads here on S197 to pull from in order to do this right the first time. With Scott's thread I'm tempted to put the engine together myself. The cams and timing chains are what scare me the most.

It's easy. You just do one thing at a time. Align the marks with the chain, install the tensioner, repeat.

It's just assembly work. The hard part is finding a good machine shop.
 

JoshK

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^+1, I was a little concerned about putting my engine together, but after doing it once, it was easier than I thought it would be. timing the engine is easy, just make sure you pick up new tensioners so they have the clips on them that hold them compressed while you put everything together
 

skwerl

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I would go with the other FRPP heads set and save some money.

So you're saying there isn't enough difference between the two heads to justify the extra thousand dollars? I noticed the less expensive heads use all stock valves and springs and the combustion chamber is slightly larger, the high dollar heads have oversize valves and the combustion chamber is smaller than stock.
 

lito

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So you're saying there isn't enough difference between the two heads to justify the extra thousand dollars? I noticed the less expensive heads use all stock valves and springs and the combustion chamber is slightly larger, the high dollar heads have oversize valves and the combustion chamber is smaller than stock.

Yes, if you were NA on a 323, I would do it. If you were doing a high boost project on a boss block, I would do it. I prefer the cheaper ones, stock powder metal guides are good, stock inconel exhaust valves are good too. I've had both in my car, no difference to make them worthy.
 

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