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stkjock

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no but "Ford" here recommended castrol oil 10w-30 and 15-40 not that much heavy according to what Ford been used and a lot of people here are using 15-40

Ford??? As in a dealer?

I'm waiting what Livernois will say

you didn't get paperwork with break-in instructions?

I used 5w-30 dino oil to break my 5.4L in.
 

19COBRA93

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I can't see any good reason to run that weight of oil, especially on a brand new engine, or a break in.

I ran that weight on my old pushrod 5.0L with 150,000 miles.
 

01yellerCobra

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I broke my stroker motor in on 10w-30 conventional. I'm still running 10w-30, but in a blend. I know, I know. But with an oil leak I can't seem to find it's cheaper then going through full synthetic.

I do run 15w-40 in my boat. But that's a Chevy motor, and well, I don't really need to say anything else about that.
 

UNICORN

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I broke mine too with 10w-30

Ford??? As in a dealer?



you didn't get paperwork with break-in instructions?

I used 5w-30 dino oil to break my 5.4L in.

yes I meant dealer
 
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UNICORN

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livernois recommend Joe Gibbs Break in oil 10w-30 or 10w- 30 Non-Synthetic.so Castrol will be fine since we don't have Joe Gibbs here
 

TexasBlownV8

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I used valvaline zr1 racing (i think) 10w-30 oil for break-in. O-rielly's ordered it from their warehouse, and it was not that expensive ($4 or less per qt). I came across some last summer for $2.59, but I had stopped using it by then.
 

19COBRA93

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Have you checked the oil to make sure there isn't coolant in there? That's a lot of steam.
 

UNICORN

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Have you checked the oil to make sure there isn't coolant in there? That's a lot of steam.

yes I did everything normal, Mike @ Livernois said it's normal for an engine until it is broken in
 

TexasBlownV8

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You dindt answer about the catch can...where does the other end go to? Curious if you're running an open ventilation setup with that breather. If you are, you could be seeing condensation-heavey engine vapors.
 

UNICORN

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You dindt answer about the catch can...where does the other end go to? Curious if you're running an open ventilation setup with that breather. If you are, you could be seeing condensation-heavey engine vapors.

yes it's open it goes to the both valve cover sides , is it ok or not ?
 

TexasBlownV8

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Ah ha! that could be your 'issue', which is probably no issue. Under normal closed-system operation, those vapors would be pulled back into the intake and burned. With venting through a breather, those vapors are venting out under the slight blowby pressure.

Once the engine warms up, it's probably ok, right?

Just for grins, open your oil cap and look into the valve cover. Does it look clean or have yellowish crap? Depends how cold it's been though, too.

(BTW, I've been considering running a similar breather setup as what you have: did you make any changed to the valve covers to aid in venting?)
 

UNICORN

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Ah ha! that could be your 'issue', which is probably no issue. Under normal closed-system operation, those vapors would be pulled back into the intake and burned. With venting through a breather, those vapors are venting out under the slight blowby pressure.

Once the engine warms up, it's probably ok, right?

Just for grins, open your oil cap and look into the valve cover. Does it look clean or have yellowish crap? Depends how cold it's been though, too.

(BTW, I've been considering running a similar breather setup as what you have: did you make any changed to the valve covers to aid in venting?)

yes when the engine warms up the smoke disappear for moments and get back again and then disappear as I said it become "variable" , and yes when I removed the oil cap the valve cover looks clean no yellowish crap , and about the catch can no I didn't make any change on the valve cover the passenger side hose will fit directly didn't need a reducer, but I used something like this on the driver's side



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

lito

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Stop idling that car and get on it now, if not, you may loose the chance of sealing those rings. Livernois will tell you this, "break it in on the dyno", you need boost and heat for those rings to seal, "upgrade pistons" I guess mean Diamond.

Two customers lost two Livernois motors because idiotic "I-know-all-because-I-have-been-wrenching-for-years" mechanic did not followed our indications and let them idle and part throttle for days. The hone finish of livernois is quite thin but effective if done properly.
 
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rford426

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I used valvaline zr1 racing (i think) 10w-30 oil for break-in. O-rielly's ordered it from their warehouse, and it was not that expensive ($4 or less per qt). I came across some last summer for $2.59, but I had stopped using it by then.

6329c292-2704-b073.jpg


This is what I've been running
 

UNICORN

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Stop idling that car and get on it now, if not, you may loose the chance of sealing those rings. Livernois will tell you this, "break it in on the dyno", you need boost and heat for those rings to seal, "upgrade pistons" I guess mean Diamond.

Two customers lost two Livernois motors because idiotic "I-know-all-because-I-have-been-wrenching-for-years" mechanic did not followed our indications and let them idle and part throttle for days. The hone finish of livernois is quite thin but effective if done properly.

yes Diamond , I talked to Livernois and explain everything to them and they said "You should be fine to run it" the problem right now is the car adding in fuel and I'm waiting my tuner to fix it before taking the car out and run it for a couples of miles I already stop idling the car unless for a couples of minuets to take several datalog to the tuner "when he asked me to do"
 

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