Spydershaft Rubbing Issues!

[danbev07]

Alright, so next time I should bite my tongue - yesterday I boasted how my driveshaft has not been giving me any issues on a thread. Technically, the driveshaft really isn't, but the clearance between it and the tunnel sure is!

After driving here and there a few times with more than just me in the car I began to notice a hard hit coming from under the center console when hitting larger bumps - definitely the sound of something smacking from the inside of the tunnel. I was hoping it might have been the rear-end, but apparently it isn't:

Luckily I've caught it early enough, so there aren't any grooves, just a good polishing...

First thought: since I swapped in the v8 and the tr3650 tranny, I had to flip the transmission crossmember (i remember reading it somewhere, and it made sense comparing it to the damaged one I pulled off the wrecked car). Maybe I did it wrong? After comparing pictures and looking at the manual, looks like everything is the way it's supposed to be.

Second thought: I reused the v6 tranny mount bushing - maybe they're different? That couldn't be either, since they looked identical when I compared both off the car. Couldn't find part numbers, so this I'm not sure of. I feel that they are the same though.

So after doing some searching, I found that it seemed to have happened to others before, and that and adj UCA were supposedly the fix?

The driveshaft appears to be rubbing on hard hits against the top part of the tunnel that has a small bracket with a hole in it. This bracket doesn't appear to serve any purpose with my setup and removing it would probably give me 1/4" more of clearance. However, I noticed that the driveshaft was also very lightly rubbing some of the sealant off the chassis right above the rear of the gas tank...

I currently have V6 Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, with the stock UCA and J&M Non-Adj. LCAs. No, I haven't addressed the pinion angle at this time, but if doing so will fix this issue, I will be purchasing an UCA pronto.

So I just want to see if anyone else can verify this issue, and if indeed an adj. UCA fixed it.

No complaints about the driveshaft itself, but I sure hope I can solve this clearance issue!

 

[danbev07]

After researching a bit more, it seems as this has been encountered before, although I've found no true/definitive solution. "Massaging" seems to be the key word here.

Guess I might just have to make the solution myself?

Anyone else have this experience?

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

Massage it gently with a BFH in the area where it rubs. Mine did that too...the BFH cured it.

HTH

Mike

 

[psfracer]

I had the 4" PH driveshaft and it would rub during acceleration out of the hole at the track--that is until I got an adjustable CHE UCA--then problem solved.

 

[doogie]

I had the 4" PH driveshaft and it would rub during acceleration out of the hole at the track--that is until I got an adjustable CHE UCA--then problem solved.

So are you still using the stock UCA bracket?

 

[danbev07]

BFH if i am interpreting it correctly is big frickin hammer right?

I think I may try grinding down that surface, and massaging it if need be.

Man good thing I don't have sportlines!

 

[05stroker]

Remove shaft and beat the shit out of everything that is in the tunnel . Thats what I did anyhow.

 

[MLC40]

I had the 4" PH driveshaft and it would rub during acceleration out of the hole at the track--that is until I got an adjustable CHE UCA--then problem solved.

+1 Steeda UCA and no more rub.

 

[Craig@TSS]

I bet your car is lowered?
Every shaft we put in we have to massage the tunnel specifically towards the rear.

 

[danbev07]

I bet your car is lowered?
Every shaft we put in we have to massage the tunnel specifically towards the rear.

Yup. Eibach pro-kit. Is the stamped tab that sticks down into the tunnel (where the driveshaft is rubbing on mine) the only thing that needs to be massaged with your setups? What about around the very rear of the tunnel, where the factory seals it up against the sheet metal behind what would be the rear seats?

 

[Craig@TSS]

What about around the very rear of the tunnel, where the factory seals it up against the sheet metal behind what would be the rear seats?

This is where the problem area usually is with aftermarket shafts. When massaging it get the BFH that other guy spoke of because the floor pan is quite stout in that area. As far as the tab it usually doesnt take much to clearance it.

Craig

 

[mustangdave]

While it is out bend the seam up along the entire length with a hammer and punch. There is a bigger pothole out there you haven't found yet.

 

[danbev07]

There is a bigger pothole out there you haven't found yet.

VERY true.

Thank you all for the advice. Might be a couple days before I get to do it, but I'll try to take some pictures of everything so that other folks can use it as a reference in the future!

 

[mdun6]

So i'm thinking this is the same noise and clunking I feel in me shifter after installing my Eibach Pro lowering spring.

 

[spyder7724]

V6 lowering springs+stock UCA=rub with any 4" driveshaft and even some 3.5" shafts. correct the suspension geometery that is messed up due to the lowering and problem solved. steeda, BMR, Metco, CHE Lakewood etc. adjustable UCA with the pinion angle set between 0 and -3 degrees will cure it. sold 900 driveshafts when i owned the company and this is the cure ....NOT A HAMMER !!!!!! LOL please do it correctly. the UCA will also help the car handle, drive and hook up better so it's a win win win situation.

think of it this way...when you lowered the car the front end had to realigned to correct the negative camber to prevent the tires from wearing the inside edge... well now the rear suspension needsto be corrected as well.

 

[mdun6]

So bascially you are saying the pinion angle is off and we need these (link) to correct it. How do I go about setting the angle when I install them? I've been bummed out that there is something rubbing but since the car is put up for the winter it been on the back burner. If these will fix it I will order them today and get them installed and ready for spring.

http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_street_upper_control_arm.php

 

[danbev07]

V6 lowering springs+stock UCA=rub with any 4" driveshaft and even some 3.5" shafts. correct the suspension geometery that is messed up due to the lowering and problem solved. steeda, BMR, Metco, CHE Lakewood etc. adjustable UCA with the pinion angle set between 0 and -3 degrees will cure it. sold 900 driveshafts when i owned the company and this is the cure ....NOT A HAMMER !!!!!! LOL please do it correctly. the UCA will also help the car handle, drive and hook up better so it's a win win win situation.

think of it this way...when you lowered the car the front end had to realigned to correct the negative camber to prevent the tires from wearing the inside edge... well now the rear suspension needsto be corrected as well.

heh DAMN wish I had read this before 3PM.

just finished taking out the biggest problem. going to reassemble shortly before the rain really hits (yes, it's been raining a little bit here in "sunny" so-cal today).

underneath the car I could see that the top of the pinion flange looks like it's further back than the bottom of the flange - in other words the rear-end is leaning back.

i'll post pictures of what I did.

more than likely going to order that UCA anyway now lol.

thanks for the help though!

 

[mdun6]

yeah I just ordered the UAC'S

 

[danbev07]

So I'm probably going to get the J&M "Extreme Joint" UCA off of AM since I have J&M LCA's already, unless someone should have a good reason to suggest something else.

I realized I cut my bumpstops to allow for another 1/2" or so of travel since the pro-kit springs put the rear-end right below the rear sub-frame with <1/4" of travel before bottoming out. Maybe I shouldn't have cut so much of the bumpstop off either?

Here are some pics of what I found, and how I attempted to address it before reading spyder's post:

Don't worry - I cleaned up the burrs and threw a coat of paint over the opening before throwing everything back on. While I was at it, I filed down the very top of the E-brake bracket as well, as it has a small tab of metal that sticks out horizontally into the tunnel that can get pretty close to the driveshaft, especially for those at normal/oem ride heights (the reason i'm sure you hear about these "e-brake relocation" techniques with use of alum. d/s)

At least now I know there shouldn't be ANY clearance issues once I put in the UCA and adjust it to spec.

Next obstacle: once the UCA arrives I need a break in the weather to install it ASAP!

 

[mdun6]

Danbev07, could you feel it hitting in the shifter?