danbev07
Road Course Junkie
Nope, the spydershaft seems to be of a smaller diameter around the shifter, and there aren't any signs of rubbing on the driveshaft. Only at the area pictured above.
Spydershaft Rubbing Issues!
- Thread starter danbev07
- Start date
Nope, the spydershaft seems to be of a smaller diameter around the shifter, and there aren't any signs of rubbing on the driveshaft. Only at the area pictured above.
spyder7724
Senior Member
it's not but it feels like it's in the shifter though. There's plenty of clearance around the shifter cause the shafts are only 3.5" at that point and the only issue with shifters is the saleen short throw adapter (a little block of metal that repositions the shifter linkage down further to allow for shorter throws using a stock ford shifter on manual trans factory saleen cars)
when i first installed mine i had coilovers on it front and rear so i dropped it down in .5" increments until it started rubbing just to see how low i could go. at a drop of 2.5" on a hard launch it rubbed and felt like the shifter was going to shake out of the car.
it didn't make sense to me that it only did it on a hard launch and no other time until i got a good look at the rear UCA bushings. they are soft and like 3" in diameter so they allow the differential to rotate at least 7 or more degrees during launch and given the stock pinion angle of 0 to+2 (at best) the decreasing the tunnel clearance and the installing of a larger shaft with different pivot points (arc through the suspension travel) there's really only one good solution to solve all these issues.
at stock ride height with stock LCA's and UCA it's not an issue and i've never heard of one clearance problem even at 1.5" lowered it's usually not a problem but any lower it's almost a given.... me know... me tried it first
I don't own the company anymore but still i don't want to see you guys bashing up your cars for no reason either. there's a time for a BFH believe me but this ain't it.
when i first installed mine i had coilovers on it front and rear so i dropped it down in .5" increments until it started rubbing just to see how low i could go. at a drop of 2.5" on a hard launch it rubbed and felt like the shifter was going to shake out of the car.
it didn't make sense to me that it only did it on a hard launch and no other time until i got a good look at the rear UCA bushings. they are soft and like 3" in diameter so they allow the differential to rotate at least 7 or more degrees during launch and given the stock pinion angle of 0 to+2 (at best) the decreasing the tunnel clearance and the installing of a larger shaft with different pivot points (arc through the suspension travel) there's really only one good solution to solve all these issues.
at stock ride height with stock LCA's and UCA it's not an issue and i've never heard of one clearance problem even at 1.5" lowered it's usually not a problem but any lower it's almost a given.... me know... me tried it first
I don't own the company anymore but still i don't want to see you guys bashing up your cars for no reason either. there's a time for a BFH believe me but this ain't it.
it's not but it feels like it's in the shifter though. There's plenty of clearance around the shifter cause the shafts are only 3.5" at that point and the only issue with shifters is the saleen short throw adapter (a little block of metal that repositions the shifter linkage down further to allow for shorter throws using a stock ford shifter on manual trans factory saleen cars)
when i first installed mine i had coilovers on it front and rear so i dropped it down in .5" increments until it started rubbing just to see how low i could go. at a drop of 2.5" on a hard launch it rubbed and felt like the shifter was going to shake out of the car.
it didn't make sense to me that it only did it on a hard launch and no other time until i got a good look at the rear UCA bushings. they are soft and like 3" in diameter so they allow the differential to rotate at least 7 or more degrees during launch and given the stock pinion angle of 0 to+2 (at best) the decreasing the tunnel clearance and the installing of a larger shaft with different pivot points (arc through the suspension travel) there's really only one good solution to solve all these issues.
at stock ride height with stock LCA's and UCA it's not an issue and i've never heard of one clearance problem even at 1.5" lowered it's usually not a problem but any lower it's almost a given.... me know... me tried it first
I don't own the company anymore but still i don't want to see you guys bashing up your cars for no reason either. there's a time for a BFH believe me but this ain't it.
I defiantly think what you are saying is correct. I lowered mine with Eibach Pro which is only 1.4" in the rear so I was really surprised I have clearance issue. I will install the UAC then take to a local shop and have then set to -2 degrees. They shipped today so i hoping to have them in a couple days and install them that night. Then all I need is a break in the weather to get it to the shop. I probably should have mentioned that I still have the factory 2 peice DS. The only change I made was the springs which lowered the rear 1.4". From what you have posted you didn' have any issue till it was lowered 2.5" so I really still hoping the adjustable UCA fixes it.
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well the UCA did not fix my issue with the vibration/clunking in my shifter. Been on hold waiting to talk to a tech from Hurst for almost 2 hours. Shifter was purchased last June and probably only has maybe 2,000 miles since install. It all started when I lowered the car.
danbev07
Road Course Junkie
Update!
Got a J&M Adj. UCA. I set it to the recommended starting point per the instructions sent with it, and that's all I was able to complete.
Spyder, when you say "-2*", are you referring to the method of taking the difference between the transmission flange and the rear-end flange to achieve this angle?
Got a J&M Adj. UCA. I set it to the recommended starting point per the instructions sent with it, and that's all I was able to complete.
Spyder, when you say "-2*", are you referring to the method of taking the difference between the transmission flange and the rear-end flange to achieve this angle?
spyder7724
Senior Member
yeah thats the easiest way to do it. it should help the car launch better and less wheel hop too.
danbev07
Road Course Junkie
The J&M instructions say to use the driveshaft and pinion flange to measure the angle.
Wouldn't this measurement yield at different measurement?
Wouldn't this measurement yield at different measurement?
Mustang30212
Senior Member
Quick question:
I am about to purchase a new Spydershaft from an individual. I've done a little reading on different shafts and was wondering if the Spydershaft needs an adapteror is it basically plug and play?
RH
I am about to purchase a new Spydershaft from an individual. I've done a little reading on different shafts and was wondering if the Spydershaft needs an adapteror is it basically plug and play?
RH
danbev07
Road Course Junkie
The spydershaft requires the cobra flange that can be found here.
Search around to see if you can get a better deal than the one in the link.
If not, shoot me a PM.
Since you're buying it "new" but used (since i'm assuming it isn't coming with this flange), you will also need the matching flange bolts that connect your driveshaft to the flange linked above. Best idea is to get them new from Ford.
Just a note for everyone - it looks like the UCA cured my problems. I currently have the pinion at an angle of -2*, and no NEW signs of rubbing
Search around to see if you can get a better deal than the one in the link.
If not, shoot me a PM.
Since you're buying it "new" but used (since i'm assuming it isn't coming with this flange), you will also need the matching flange bolts that connect your driveshaft to the flange linked above. Best idea is to get them new from Ford.
Just a note for everyone - it looks like the UCA cured my problems. I currently have the pinion at an angle of -2*, and no NEW signs of rubbing
07Alloy
Member
mdun6,
I am guessing that the sound you are getting in your hurst is your hurst. Mine did it too. Do a little search for the hurst shifter rattle. The problem I have found, lies within the "socket or joint" of which the entire shifter moves. I tried everything with the handle and knob and that did nothing. Then I tried something I read on here that someone did. I bought a piece of blue pool hose at lowes. Cut about 1.5 to 2 inches piece. Take the linkage of the shifter underneath and slip the piece of pool hose on. Reinstall the linkage. I also packed a bunch of grease in that joint before putting the pool hose on. Seemed stupid but It worked and only cost a few cents. Thats the best kind of fix.
I am guessing that the sound you are getting in your hurst is your hurst. Mine did it too. Do a little search for the hurst shifter rattle. The problem I have found, lies within the "socket or joint" of which the entire shifter moves. I tried everything with the handle and knob and that did nothing. Then I tried something I read on here that someone did. I bought a piece of blue pool hose at lowes. Cut about 1.5 to 2 inches piece. Take the linkage of the shifter underneath and slip the piece of pool hose on. Reinstall the linkage. I also packed a bunch of grease in that joint before putting the pool hose on. Seemed stupid but It worked and only cost a few cents. Thats the best kind of fix.
V6 lowering springs+stock UCA=rub with any 4" driveshaft and even some 3.5" shafts. correct the suspension geometery that is messed up due to the lowering and problem solved. steeda, BMR, Metco, CHE Lakewood etc. adjustable UCA with the pinion angle set between 0 and -3 degrees will cure it. sold 900 driveshafts when i owned the company and this is the cure ....NOT A HAMMER !!!!!! LOLplease do it correctly. the UCA will also help the car handle, drive and hook up better so it's a win win win situation.
think of it this way...when you lowered the car the front end had to realigned to correct the negative camber to prevent the tires from wearing the inside edge... well now the rear suspension needsto be corrected as well.
haven't read the whole thread, but i can tell you this. i've lowered 2 s197's and just did my 3rd. This one i don't have a one piece on "yet"
but i've never had a rubbing issue with the other 2.
as soon as i lowered this car, the pinion angle was way off. it was pointing like 3 degrees off. the double adj upper fixed it. of course now the rear is pulled in a bit, so i am swapping out to some double adj lowers as well today and then resetting the pinion angle again
I'm in the process of changing it but whats the odds this was my issue?Similar threads
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