Alter Ego Trip
Pot Stirring Aficianado
I won't go into details concerning the current tuner. Some of you on here know due to previous discussion, and we'll leave it at that.
After paying for a remote tune over a week ago, I finally got a hold of him on the phone and cornered him into finally getting on the ball and doing mine.
I had some concerns that I wanted addressed, and am a little concerned about the answers. Here's just a couple quick points that raised my curiosity.
Me: I went ahead and ordered the 3.33 pulley to replace the 3.60 that is on the car, per your recommendations. I have a question on the initial base tune you are going to send me to start with however. Don't you need to know how much boost I'm putting out to be able to dial in the tune? As boost goes up, obviously timing need to be retarded to prevent detonation.
Tuner: Boost is irrelevant to tuning. My tunes are set to automatically retard the timing. I don't need to know the exact boost level.
Huh? Seeing as the car is not factory boosted, how does the PCM have any idea how much boost I am putting out. I don't see how you can tune based on unknown variables.
Me: I'm going to try and get the data logging done first thing in the morning, when it's as cool as possible. In MT we see wicked temp swings, from 30's in the mornings, to 100's in the evenings. I don't want to have to worry about a really cold morning popping my motor.
Tuner: You can tune at any temp. My tunes will adjust (trailed off so I have no idea where that was going) so you don't have to worry about cold weather being an issue.
Again, huh? Obviously colder air is much more dense. So if I tune my AFR at 100 degrees and the temp drops to the 30's, my AFR is going to be considerably leaner. Am I missing something here?
Me: Currently I feel my tune is way out of whack. Transmission shift points are horrid, and the midrange is pretty bad. If I accelerate at half throttle, the car is really doggy until about 4k, and then it feels like a Honda VTEC. Is this the nature of the beast for centri's, or could this be tune related?
Tuner: Not sure, but a set of CMCV plates would probably take care of that though.
Me: If I add them down the road, what will need to be retuned?
Tuner: All I'll need to play with is timing if you go that route.
I hate to question a good tuner, I'm just very cautious after watching the first one about grenade my motor on the dyno.
Some of these responses just have me baffled. If anyone can enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
After paying for a remote tune over a week ago, I finally got a hold of him on the phone and cornered him into finally getting on the ball and doing mine.
I had some concerns that I wanted addressed, and am a little concerned about the answers. Here's just a couple quick points that raised my curiosity.
Me: I went ahead and ordered the 3.33 pulley to replace the 3.60 that is on the car, per your recommendations. I have a question on the initial base tune you are going to send me to start with however. Don't you need to know how much boost I'm putting out to be able to dial in the tune? As boost goes up, obviously timing need to be retarded to prevent detonation.
Tuner: Boost is irrelevant to tuning. My tunes are set to automatically retard the timing. I don't need to know the exact boost level.
Huh? Seeing as the car is not factory boosted, how does the PCM have any idea how much boost I am putting out. I don't see how you can tune based on unknown variables.
Me: I'm going to try and get the data logging done first thing in the morning, when it's as cool as possible. In MT we see wicked temp swings, from 30's in the mornings, to 100's in the evenings. I don't want to have to worry about a really cold morning popping my motor.
Tuner: You can tune at any temp. My tunes will adjust (trailed off so I have no idea where that was going) so you don't have to worry about cold weather being an issue.
Again, huh? Obviously colder air is much more dense. So if I tune my AFR at 100 degrees and the temp drops to the 30's, my AFR is going to be considerably leaner. Am I missing something here?
Me: Currently I feel my tune is way out of whack. Transmission shift points are horrid, and the midrange is pretty bad. If I accelerate at half throttle, the car is really doggy until about 4k, and then it feels like a Honda VTEC. Is this the nature of the beast for centri's, or could this be tune related?
Tuner: Not sure, but a set of CMCV plates would probably take care of that though.
Me: If I add them down the road, what will need to be retuned?
Tuner: All I'll need to play with is timing if you go that route.
I hate to question a good tuner, I'm just very cautious after watching the first one about grenade my motor on the dyno.
Some of these responses just have me baffled. If anyone can enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
