V6 bracket car setup

[bodinefan]

Anyone using v6 for bracket racing. Looking to start converting my 2005 and looking for setup tip and parts to get for it, tires, rims tuner suspension, ect. Also what times are you running

 

[72Stick]

Did you take the car to the track? I want to do the same thing.

 

[Joe combs]

Setting up a 05 V-6 car would be just like a V8... so just about any of the information for suspension setups here in the forum could be applied to your car.
Not sure how long the 7.5 rear axle will last if using sticky tires, so an upgrade to the 8.8 would be something I would look at, and would be a bolt in, and be able to handle the V-6 power with no problem.

 

[JimC]

All it took was a tune and set of drag radial to break the 7.5 that I tried to build up on my 2006. So yes, swap to the 8.8 instead.

 

[72Stick]

I'm very interested in what people are doing with their v6 S197 Mustangs. I have a 2011 that I took to the track a few times last season to do some bracket racing in the 12 seconds and slower class. I'd really like to connect with others that are or want to bracket race these cars.

 

[JimC]

I'm very interested in what people are doing with their v6 S197 Mustangs. I have a 2011 that I took to the track a few times last season to do some bracket racing in the 12 seconds and slower class. I'd really like to connect with others that are or want to bracket race these cars.

The good thing with the 2011 is that you already have the 8.8" rear end, and the 3.7L V6 has a little more power than the 4.0.

But most of the 3.7 cars were given a 2.73 rear end for gears so very slow getting started, but it improves the MPG. Get a tune from MPT which seems to have the best option for the 3.7, and maybe a 3.55 gear change in the rear end. I wouldn't go with anything more than 3.55 based upon the transmission - a 3.73 or 4.10 makes 1st gear pretty much useless and short shifts you.

 

[Robert Larimer]

The good thing with the 2011 is that you already have the 8.8" rear end, and the 3.7L V6 has a little more power than the 4.0.

But most of the 3.7 cars were given a 2.73 rear end for gears so very slow getting started, but it improves the MPG. Get a tune from MPT which seems to have the best option for the 3.7, and maybe a 3.55 gear change in the rear end. I wouldn't go with anything more than 3.55 based upon the transmission - a 3.73 or 4.10 makes 1st gear pretty much useless and short shifts you.

I don't call 100 more horsepower "little"..... 3.7 Cyclones are on a par with stock 3V's. I have beaten more than a few with just a tune. I do have a 3.31 rear though.

 

[72Stick]

I'm planning on leaving the engine alone other that an MPT PR-X 93 tune. I installed the BMR upper and lower control arms with the adjustable upper and lower relocation brackets. I also installed an Airlift drag bag on the passenger side with some Strange 10 way shocks. I replaced the drive shaft with a custom PST aluminum shaft. The car came from the factory with a 3.31. Pretty consistent 13.80 ET car, @ 102 mph during last fall's test-n-tune, but I had to deep stage it to cut a light.

It's heavy and underpowered, so it's lazy off the line. I really want to bracket race this car and I'd like to be able to shallow stage. Anyone have luck shallow staging these heavy/slow cars without cutting it up to save weight?

 

[AHaze]

I'm no serious drag racer but the answer that jumps out at me is higher stall converter (I assume it's an auto since you're bracket racing) and steeper gear.

 

[72Stick]

That’s what I’m working on now. Put a 3.73 in it after the season was over and now I’m looking at converters. I drive it to the track, so I don’t want a vert that makes it un-drivable on the street.