valve spring replacement

[hazzardoustoysjr]

long story short my single turbo 3v floated the valves on dyno around 5500 rpms and I was told I need to replace the valve springs. something I wish wasn't overlooked when I had the motor out but either way. Many mistakes were made along the way, listened to bad information and built a low compression motor, had to increase boost to try and make the original power number and didn't replace springs etc. The car made 530whp at 16psi but power fell off and boost went up at 5500 rpms. I was told by the guy who tunes my car he believes it floated the valves and turned to boost back down until I could fix the issue. He has a very reputable shop for mustangs local to me in Delaware.
I've came to the conclusion the are 3 ways to do this.
1 remove timing cover and pull cams to do the springs
2 remove cams and wedge the timing chains
3 replace springs without removing cams
my question is why do so many people opt to do it with the cams out?
it seems like extra work but maybe it makes it easier.
I would like input from anyone who has done this job, thank you so much

the car has a built shortblock and 6060

 

[Pentalab]

Why would the valves float at 5.5 k rpm ? Were the oem springs that worn, that they lost tension ?

 

[hazzardoustoysjr]

I honestly do not have a good answer, I know the boost was bumped to 15psi because the new engine was set up for lower compression. According to my tuner he believed it was valve float because power fell off at 5500rpms but boost pressure went up. They are stock springs with around 75k miles

 

[Midlife Crises]

Not a turbo guy so I can’t comment on the boost curve but I can tell you it is much easier to replace the springs with the cams out of the way.

 

[hazzardoustoysjr]

Thank you, so you think I would have less time in pulling the cams then trying to do it without it

 

[GriffX]

How do you compress the valve springs with the cam out? I have a spring compressor which needs the cam as support.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I use the valve spring compressor from PQY Performance. It is made for the 3 valve and bolts to the top of the head. Picked it up from eBay. Much easier to work around than the compressor that hooks under the cam. I found it dam near impossible to reach the stem locks on the exhaust valves with the cam and compressor in the way.

 

[whitmanink]

you can do it with the cams in,,
butttttttt...
just getting the followers on and off with the cam in , is very hard,, and you must make sure they are seated or you will drop a valve and destroy a engine block,
but just getting them on and off can be fun,,

another reason to take the cams off is you can change valve stems while you are in there.

plus as mentioned , the cams in and the tool to remove springs with them is more annoying and gets in the way for everything.,

id buy 2 new cam phaser bolts (one time tty) mark the chain in relation to the cam sprocket,, pull the cams out and get her done

 

[hazzardoustoysjr]

Thanks for the input guys, I think im going to pull the timing cover and do it properly.

 

[Midlife Crises]

If you have the front cover off you can remove the tensioners and slip the chain off the phasers without removing the phaser from the cam. FEL PRO makes a replacement gasket for the tensioners. I like to remove the front cover when fooling with the valve train because I can be absolutely sure to get the timing correct.

 

[hazzardoustoysjr]

That's a good tip, no need for phaser bolts if I don't take them off thank you and yes I agree I was a little worried about using the wedges and god forbid somethings moves and I'm not aware