VCT lockout questions,mechanical and tune.

Marc s

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At those boost levels I doubt it's much if any power. If you want the most power out of it you should just get either the Paschal or BBR adjustable cam gears and time the engine.

I have been looking into those today.
 

one eyed willy

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Here's what I replaced, hopefully I don't forget anything. I got it all from 19COBRA93 on here.


Crank chain sprocket, XL3Z-6306-AA $25.29
(2) 5W7Z-6268-AA Chain - Timing $43.88 each
(1) 4R3Z-6B274-BA Chain Guide - LH $14.29
(1) 4R3Z-6M256-CC Chain Guide - RH $12.58
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-AA Tensioner Arm - LH $14.29
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-BA Tensioner Arm - RH $14.29
(1) F6AZ-6L266-DA Tensioner - RH $53.23
(1) F6AZ-6L266-CA Tensioner - LH $53.23
(24) 5L1Z-6500-A hydraulic lash $6.31 each
(8) 4R3Z-9439-AA intake gaskets $7.92 each (I just did these since they were old, they are the gaskets under the intake manifold or in my case my E-force blower)
Front cover gasket, right 4R3Z-6020-BE $11.21
Front cover gasket, left 4R3Z-6020-DB $4.70
Front cover gasket, center 4R3Z-6020-EB $4.81
Front cover seal, XW4Z-6700-A $7.47

Other than these things I also replaced my valve springs with the comp 26113-24 ones and new valve seals which I got from a local guy. I don't have the part numbers for those unfortunately. I will say that the Freedom racing spring compressor tool worked great for doing the springs. I was nervous as hell doing this work since I've never worked on an engine but many people were quite helpful along the way, Paul(againstallodds1), Art(Rench), Billy(05Stroker), Mike Devlin who's the mechanic at Tillman speed and did alot of work on my car in the past. I hope I didn't forget anyone.


thanx ALOT!!

on the springs....i want to do mine as well, ill do turbo cams one day, but id like to go ahead and do springs in the mean time just to be safer with the boost and not get any valve float. with these springs you got, what kind of cams could you run if you wanted?

I SEE YOU USED THE metal 2v tensioners? work out ok?

did you need any gaskets for the v10 VCT plates?
 
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dysan

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No problems! This is what this site is for...I got most of those part numbers from tmcolegr's build thread.

I think the springs I got are only good for a mild cam like the 127350 or 450 series. If you want to go more aggressive, which I suspect you do, then you would want to go with the 26125-24 springs which I wish I would have gone with. I purchased my springs just based on the fear of how many miles were on my stock ones under boost and I didn't think ahead.

The 2v metal tensioners seem to be working just fine and there's no separate gaskets needed for the v10 plates since they come with them on them already.
 

one eyed willy

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No problems! This is what this site is for...I got most of those part numbers from tmcolegr's build thread.

I think the springs I got are only good for a mild cam like the 127350 or 450 series. If you want to go more aggressive, which I suspect you do, then you would want to go with the 26125-24 springs which I wish I would have gone with. I purchased my springs just based on the fear of how many miles were on my stock ones under boost and I didn't think ahead.

The 2v metal tensioners seem to be working just fine and there's no separate gaskets needed for the v10 plates since they come with them on them already.

awesome info, really appreciate it......your saving me hours!
 

BruceH

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is it just a single switch? any modifications to the timing or anything else to get it to work correctly with out the VCT....Im very new to the prp, so forgive my ignorance!

I've been playing with vct in prp. It would take a few minutes to zero out all the tables. Open a table, click and drag on a corner to highlight all the cells, left click with the mouse and choose apply to all, enter 0 and viola! All the cells will be zero. IIRC there are 5 tables and I'm pretty sure our ecu doesn't use all of them. Tables for IMRC open and closed and for two different types of load measurement. It would be real easy to zero all of them and turn the vct switch to a 0 in system switches. The more you use prp the more comfortable you will get with it.
 

spyder7724

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At those boost levels I doubt it's much if any power. If you want the most power out of it you should just get either the Paschal or BBR adjustable cam gears and degree the cams.
i agree the VCT will get small amounts of power but mainly it was designed for emissions and fuel mileage. another route besides the adjustable timing gears (which BTW i was emphatically told to stay away from by multiple sources with experience) is that TFS now makes multi keyed individual lower timng gears (ours has the one piece double gear but it's the same as 2V's) to allow cam timing changes easier. use the V10 cam gears and then you can degree the cams a whole lot easier. wish they had them when i built mine i had to make my VCT lockouts adjustable and remove each gear multiple times disassemble then reassemble everything and check...took two days to degree the cams. luckily even though i have solid lash adjusters and 60 lb injectors and there's no ticking in my engine running 5w20 oil.
 

esworld05

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Does anyon know if you have to zero everything out somewhere on hp tuners? My tuner showed me how he disbled the vct, and its just a drop dwn menu, its either enabled or disabled. Reason I as is because after installing my lockouts, I still get the diesel noise. I have a really hard time thinking its a lash adjuster because all the follwers are nice and tight. Does anyone have a picture of how a collapsed or broken lash adjuster looks? I'm going to open my valve covers againa nd recheck that.
 

TheKurgan

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Other than to fix an annoying noise, why do this ? Has there been any catastrophic failures due to VCT ?
 

esworld05

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Just search vct noise and read. There is a little pin on the phaser that slips into the cam. Wen the phaser fails, it starts moving iradically, and that pin either breaks off, or if you catch it on time it willbe just loose. Because of all the movement it damages the cam, and replacing the phaser alone. Wll not work, you will have to replace the cam as well.
 

esworld05

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Btw, if the pin breaks, well just imagine a loose bolt in ur valvetrain, and you'll get the picture.
 

one eyed willy

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Other than to fix an annoying noise, why do this ? Has there been any catastrophic failures due to VCT ?



i think once you get over a certain horsepower, giving up 15-20 horsepower for the added protection is worth it. VCT just allows more things to go wrong with the valves hitting the pistons.if i was n/a , i wouldnt even be thinking about getting rid of it. my goals will be 600+ after this latest build and giving up 15-20 wont be a big deal.
 

esworld05

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I was going to get your forged internals^^, but I have a really big problem now with the vct, I think. I've spend like 450 trying to fix the dam thing.
 

BruceH

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i agree the VCT will get small amounts of power but mainly it was designed for emissions and fuel mileage. another route besides the adjustable timing gears (which BTW i was emphatically told to stay away from by multiple sources with experience) is that TFS now makes multi keyed individual lower timng gears (ours has the one piece double gear but it's the same as 2V's) to allow cam timing changes easier. use the V10 cam gears and then you can degree the cams a whole lot easier. wish they had them when i built mine i had to make my VCT lockouts adjustable and remove each gear multiple times disassemble then reassemble everything and check...took two days to degree the cams. luckily even though i have solid lash adjusters and 60 lb injectors and there's no ticking in my engine running 5w20 oil.

More info on the V10 cam gears please. Are they a direct swap for phasers?
 

spyder7724

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Other than to fix an annoying noise, why do this ? Has there been any catastrophic failures due to VCT ?
the VCT limits your valve spring\camshaft options. once you get to stiffer springs it starts screwing with the VCT since the cam timing is adjusted and sustained by oil pressure. too much spring pressure and the phaser doesn't have enough oil pressure to hold steady cam timing. if you're running high lift cams then you can't afford to have unstable cam timing...the stock phasers allow for up to 60 degrees of retard so if that happened at 7500rpms in my engine it's toast.
anyway you'll gain way more power by using aggressive cams+springs than by playing with a couple degrees of cam retard\advance. plus it's added protection.
i don't have any more info on the V10 gears but i think blow by racing actually sells them. i may be wrong about that but i know we have a vendor here that uses them in some of their builds. that info wasn't out when i built my engine or i most definitely would have used them.
 
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