welded axles on coyotes

nasty281

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I've read that it may be a good idea to weld the axles on the new coyotes especially due the increase in power over previous years but I'm about to address my wheel hop by adding suspension (control arms/brackets/shocks) and possibly some slicks which in turn will allow me to launch my car quite a bit harder. So at what point should I consider welding my axles. It would be my worst nightmare turn an axletube lol
 

nasty281

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Basically everyone is arguing against welding or using braces. Some say only people with brackets twist axles. Some say the opposite. Is it wheel hop causing this, is it a certain power level that is reached. I'm just confused bc its a long thread of arguing
 

DTL

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Weld the tubes. Yes, it works. We do it on all the heads-up race cars (that aren't running a 9"). Also, do either a c-clip eliminator or go to 9" housing ends (which is what I did). As far as bracing goes, unless you're making a LOT of power and running a LOT of tire, it may be overkill for your application. UPR and Racecraft make a brace that welds to the axle tube on one end and bolts through the webbing on the other. Unfortunately, it gets REAL close to the over-axle exhaust pipe on a lowered car.
 

LockNLoad

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The way I looked at it, is it couldn't hurt and then I would be ready for when I upped the power and put bigger tires on.

My setup:
8625494283_a65048b995_c.jpg
 

Riptide

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Doesnt che make a bolt in brace that should take care of it unless youre running a metric buttload of power?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatwat
 

Tight Lines

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The way I looked at it, is it couldn't hurt and then I would be ready for when I upped the power and put bigger tires on.

My setup:
8625494283_a65048b995_c.jpg

Just an observation, you stated you welded your axle tubes but you didn't weld on your relocation brackets? Just wondering.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Just had mine welded while it was in a shop getting other work done, cheap insurance.

Welding the axles is cheaper than the brace and the brace adds weight.
 

Greg Hazlett

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I can understand that; do you have a reputable welder nearby or someone you trust?
 

Greg Hazlett

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Any other local mustangers that could give you recommendations on places they have used?

On my 2010 I made quite a few passes before having the tubes welded with no issues, if you are stock or staying NA with bolt ons you should be ok...good plan on the suspension upgrades.
 

NUTCASE

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I have the 3v, however one would think that because the main diffrence between the coyote and 3v rears is the gears the better question should be at what 60' should I consider welding the axle tubes?


a 1.6 60' hooking in a 3400 lb car is the same amount of force whether a 3v or a coyote is pushing it.
 

nasty281

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No sure what 60fts ill see but if I hooking I'm sure 5-6k clutch dumps are probable
 

Dubstep Shep

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I'm just scared whoever does it will end up warping my axle

I just recently did mine. Here are some pics of the setup.

9ydapuny.jpg

seqebyme.jpg

ate3aqep.jpg

yvumanut.jpg


Basically we got the biggest, straightest, solid bar of steel we could find that fit inside the axle bearings, then found some aluminum tubing that for over that, and shaved it down to where the whole thing just barely fit inside the axle bearings with zero play in it.

The bar was about a foot longer than the housing, and we used jack stands to support it on the ends.

We tac welded up a support for the pinion neck, and the loaded weight on the rear face of the axle, which was now facing up.

Then we tac welded the axle tubes in four spots around them, and seam welded opposite sides so it didn't get too hot. If you can, I would preheat and use a nickel rod for the welder. I didn't and it turned out ok, but I can't say that'll work for everyone. If you're going to TIG weld it, I'd definitely use the Ni rod and preheat.

evu4yruq.jpg
 

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