What would you do if you were me?

BleedinBlue

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Nice car! I got a question though if you don't mind me asking. I see your sig has a time of 12.2 @ 116 and I was wondering what your 60' is?

I've seen a lot of low 12 ET's with 115-117 traps in peoples sigs here. I don't get it because my old car ran 11.5-11.7 @ 116 all day long with 1.5-1.6 60's.

My 60 in that run was 2.02, on 18 inch Nitto NT555's. That was a one run trip to the track after an updated tune and o/r X mid-pipe, there might be more there as it sits. ET Streets will go on next season to start taking care of that 60.
 
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darrens07gt

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My 60 in that run was 2.02, on 18 inch Nitto NT555's. That was a one run trip to the track after an updated tune and o/r X mid-pipe, there might be more there as it sits. ET Streets will go on next season to start taking care of that 60.

Good luck with your ride next season. Your car is just begging for 11's!
 

nola504boy

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If you aren't looking for crazy numbers, just get some bolt ons and N20. I had my wet kit installed today OMG. My car has bolt ons,cams, & 125 shot. Me and my cousin(c6 vette) went from a 60 roll today after leaving the shop and I jumped out 2 cars on him instantly from the hit. Before the nitrous he always pulled away like I was sitting still. So I'm happy now. I'm at 460rwhp but the torque is over 500. And his vette isn't stock. So all i'm saying is I spent less than guys with superchargers and faster than some of them. You can make decent power with a stock bottom end 3V.
 
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69Mach1-409

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I'm in the same situation, except I am very attached to my stang. Custom ordered and have had her since Oct 2007.

I've been running a Whipple HO (Dyno Tuned) for 25k miles with a decent amount of passes.. no issues from the bottom end. The trans held up fine, but the OEM clutch started to give up after a few years. So instead of just replacing the clutch, I went overboard. Swapped in a T56 Magnum w/ a Twin Disk. Great trans, but way overkill for this car.

I've considered building the 3V, the 5.0 swap, and even considered returning her to stock > sell > buy a 13 - 14.. Not sure what to do.
 

99horsey

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http://www.departmentofboost.com

For $4000+/-, you can get to 450 rwhp and 450 ft-lbs.

Here's my take: no matter what you have, it's never enough. If you think you'll get a 5.0 and not mod it much, you have more will power than most of us. If money is a big concern, why not start with something that's cheaper to begin with? If money weren't a concern, I'd go with a 5.0 because it is a higher starting point power and speed wise.
 

TRC51

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If you're already considering moving up because you're not happy with your car now, don't bother trying to make it something it's not. You will waste a lot of money modding a car and then coming to the same conclusion a year from now.... that you should have moved up instead.

I am on the same page as Bruce, I prefer the style of the 07's, but if you prefer the newer.... well.... that answers that.
 

eighty6gt

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Basically solely depends on if you care about how fast your car is w.r.t. others, or if you're never happy as people have just mentioned.

I've been driving my M90'd 2008 which is otherwise stock, came with 3.73's for 2 full summers now. It's a perfect DD. Friend who has been in/has a stock 5.0 says my car is a lot more torquey. This is what you want!

I'd do the DOB. Cheap, effective, fun. Plus it's a project. Most of the reason I'm screwing around with an engine build.
 

BruceH

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It's not the FRPP tune, it's the pretzel stick oem rods in the 05-10 cars. There have been plenty of instances of that FRPP 550hp whipple kit taking out rods up her in canada. The Edmonton city cops had a 550 hp kit on their black + white hwy cruiser.... it too windowed the block. Some folks get lucky with the oem rods + 500 rwhp..and some don't. I'd keep it at 450 rwhp or less to be on the safe side.

A 11-14 with simple bolts ons will provide plenty of rwhp..and zero chance of blowing up. A 2007 car is now 8 yrs old....it's really ancient history these days. Unless your hell bent for the 05-09 body style, I would not buy one. With the 2015 car now out..and with irs, the 11-14 cars will drop further in value. Even the leftover, new, zero miles 2014 cars here in town, on ford lots, are being discounted by > $10K.

I suppose that driving in very cold air would make the air charge denser. The question I have is did the blown motors have the frpp tune?

Ever hear of #8?
 

darrens07gt

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Meh. I picked up my 11 for 14,600.

Wait for a good deal IMO.

Damn thats a good deal. The only 5.0 here under 20k is a 2011 with 70k miles for 19,700. Most are low miles between 23 and 26k in price. If i can find a low mileage 5.0 at or near 20k then i think ill jump on it.
 

MassMustang

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Damn thats a good deal. The only 5.0 here under 20k is a 2011 with 70k miles for 19,700. Most are low miles between 23 and 26k in price. If i can find a low mileage 5.0 at or near 20k then i think ill jump on it.

If I saw one for $15K I'd jump on it!!! They're all $20K+ around here (at least in red). I'd wanna keep the payments down low.
 

Snakethat

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Id keep the 07 and supercharge it. You will enjoy it. Lets be honest about some shit here to. There will always be someone faster than you if you get a 5.0 with simple bolt ons and run 11's. The motors in the S197 will handle the power. Just becareful what people will tell you. Forums are great for info but some people are very biased with there opinion
 

Jinx

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Ive had a Whipple 550 "big boost kit" on my 2005 GT. It made 490 rwhp and 470 in tq. The car was fun. It lasted 2 years and probably more if it wasn't totaled. But to be honest I had the uneasy feeling I was on the threshold to break the motor with that setup. Dialing down wasn't an option because I loved the power too much. Heat soak and southern summers makes that setup feel about the same as a N/A Coyote.

I have a 2013 GT now and I very happy. And I'm still stock (Appearance mods and axleback). I plan to FI this one too maybe. But here the thing, the 05-09 stock blocks are said to be 500-550 rwhp for a breaking point. Upgrade to OPGs on a coyote and I think 650 rwhp is a modest safe threshold. But I think out of the box, a coyote is more fun and I personally like the 13-14 body style the best and the appearance options are endless.
 

JayhawkS197

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I would pick the one that you like the looks of more. You can always add power. Build what you like. If a 5.0 floats your boat, do it. If you prefer your 07, hey you already got one.
 

BruceH

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Ive had a Whipple 550 "big boost kit" on my 2005 GT. It made 490 rwhp and 470 in tq. The car was fun. It lasted 2 years and probably more if it wasn't totaled. But to be honest I had the uneasy feeling I was on the threshold to break the motor with that setup. Dialing down wasn't an option because I loved the power too much. Heat soak and southern summers makes that setup feel about the same as a N/A Coyote.

I have a 2013 GT now and I very happy. And I'm still stock (Appearance mods and axleback). I plan to FI this one too maybe. But here the thing, the 05-09 stock blocks are said to be 500-550 rwhp for a breaking point. Upgrade to OPGs on a coyote and I think 650 rwhp is a modest safe threshold. But I think out of the box, a coyote is more fun and I personally like the 13-14 body style the best and the appearance options are endless.

The 3v stock shortblock has that limit due to the rods but the block itself will hold over 1000rwhp.
 

Jinx

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I meant short block, Bruce. Lol. I should have specified.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Pentalab

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I suppose that driving in very cold air would make the air charge denser. The question I have is did the blown motors have the frpp tune?

Ever hear of #8?

AFAIK, they had the supplied frpp tune. I'm pretty sure it was spring + summer when they let loose. Most will park it for the winter. The rain alone will make most folks baby it around town + the hwy. At 36-38 deg F, boost appears to be up a little bit..vs 70F. But that may have been enough to do the damage.

I thought cyl #8 issues were just on coyotes.
 
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