Wheel Studs & Lug Nuts

[Sleeper_08]

Here is the Ford Racing page

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10183

looks like a good buy to me!

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

i didint read this whole thread but as far as studs i have sheered 2 off at autocross but they had been over tightened at discount tire to the point i was almost not able to get them off so that im sure played a factor

Recommend buying a quality 1/2" torque wrench (Craftsman) set a 90 ft/lbs that you can use at the track. Always good to check your torque settings between sessions after cool down because they may loosen after wheels heat and cool over the course of a day or two. Never have to worry again about some shop over or under tightening your lug nuts.

 

[Sleeper_08]

On one hand: I've got a PISSPOT full of track days on the stock studs, and aftermarket Gorilla splined lugs. No issues at all, knock wood. That said, see below...

On the other hand: Given the kinds of stresses that the car sees on track days, if you DO decide to replace the studs, the best "deal" out there is FRPP part number M-1104-A, which is a complete replacement assembly for the entire hub, and includes the extended length racing studs. It's just a touch over twice the price of a set of studs, but the bearings in the hub are a known failure (wear=slop) point, so if you're going to do the studs, I would swap the whole assembly out and just start fresh from there. I'm planning on ordering in a set in early June as a PM point. That, a set of M-1107-B rear wheel studs, and four sets of M-1012-G open-end steel lugnuts, and I'll be off to the races, pardon the pun.

SoundGuyDave

Have you installed your M-1104-A front hubs yet? If so any issues?

How hard is it to replace the rear studs with the M-1107-B ARP studs?

I've just ordered my R-comp wheels and tires and so am seriously considering replacing the front hubs. The extra piece of mind seems worth it for the price. The rears are less of a concern for me.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

That's a June project for me... Replacing the rear studs is cake! Put a lugnut on one, spin the axle until it lines up with the notch in the axle housing flange, and simply hammer it loose. Pull the lugnut, push out, and insert the new stud. Throw a stack of washers on the stud, and use a lugnut to draw the stud onto the axle. That's the "shade-tree" method, but it works.

 

[Thinkkker]

I bought the FRP hubs and studs. Just a easy replacement and gives me spares now. I got them for less than $200 shipped to me. As a FYI.

As far as pulling them thruogh, Be careful, I spun the nut on the stud and had to cut off the stud to remove it and replace with another. It was the last one too....Oh well, ill press them all in now and go ahead and install the diff.

 

[STEVE_POE]

I bought the hubs as well. $200 . and run the rear studs as well. upgraded to the open end lug nuts that ford racing has as well. I now have a spare set for the car.

as for the brakes. I have the stoptech 355 kit. I milled down the face of the caliper bracket that the radial mount caliper sits on. just a hair was all that was needed. it allowed the caliper to sit just a little further down on the mount. Brake pad contact is still the same. a 94/04 24mm cobra r wheel 17x9 will slip right over them with no spacers.

 

[almost heaven]

i didint read this whole thread but as far as studs i have sheered 2 off at autocross but they had been over tightened at discount tire to the point i was almost not able to get them off so that im sure played a factor

Yeah, I hate that. Almost always happens to me after state inspection or new tire mounting. I have to tell the mechs to torque by hand not with their stupid speed gun that is uncontrolled or out of spec. One time I could hardly get them loose even with a 24 in breaker.

Great info thread. Thanks, guys!