Which rear anti-sway bar?

[stlwagon]

Thanks for the heads up...you're talking about the bushings that slip over the ends and get bolted to the axle close to the wheels, right?

Yep.. just take them apart and hand lube them.

 

[MrClean]

Yep.. just take them apart and hand lube them.

Thanks... do the other ones, the ones that are termed "endlinks" I think, also require lubing?

 

[stlwagon]

Thanks... do the other ones, the ones that are termed "endlinks" I think, also require lubing?

Yes they do.

 

[mwilkes]

i have the eibachs and tokico combination on mine and rides pretty good for being lowered. We are gonna need to meet up here in houston for a ride and drive comparison on springs... lol

 

[MrClean]

i have the eibachs and tokico combination on mine and rides pretty good for being lowered. We are gonna need to meet up here in houston for a ride and drive comparison on springs... lol

That would be very useful. We take a drive in mine, then yours...on exactly the same roads. PM sent.

 

[ClassJ]

If you upgrade the rear always upgrade the front.

Actually, my rule is if you upgrade the front, then upgrade the rear.

A stiffer rear bar may be all you need. Especially if you are only trying to get rid of some push.

But if you have not done springs and shocks yet, that would be first on my hit list.

 

[GIG4FUN]

I want to do the D-Specs but also realized that I might benefit from buying them in "kit" form including the front and rear stabilzer bars. I see a few out there... what to do. I want the "best".

I want to buy the best for high speed cornering. I want a corner carver. Please suggest the best out there now for me. VENDORS I invite your quotes. I would like to get front/rear sway bars and tokico d-specs as well. I only have the Roush rear springs currently.

 

[MrClean]

Actually, my rule is if you upgrade the front, then upgrade the rear.

A stiffer rear bar may be all you need. Especially if you are only trying to get rid of some push.

quote]
+1, that's what I did and the effect it had. Swapped the rear stocker for the thicker BMR, and it got rid of push...very neutral now

I want to do the D-Specs but also realized that I might benefit from buying them in "kit" form including the front and rear stabilzer bars. I see a few out there... what to do. I want the "best".

I want to buy the best for high speed cornering. I want a corner carver. Please suggest the best out there now for me. VENDORS I invite your quotes. I would like to get front/rear sway bars and tokico d-specs as well. I only have the Roush rear springs currently.

Although it doesn't have the Tokico's, the Roush Stage II kit, which was recently tested by MotorTrend in a Tuner Stang test, had the best corner-carver objective improvement and ride/handling compromise. F & R sway bards, struts/shocks, springs and STB. The Shelby GT-C with the fFRPP handling pack handled objectively better, but the ride deteriorated significantly and on the street with bumps midcorner it semmed to get unsettled much more than the Roush. The only other corner-carver thing I'd suggest is a Watt's Link ($400, Fays or Lakewood).

 

[ClassJ]

I am really happy with my setup and would not change it. But the numbers on the roush package are really nice and the drop is just about perfect too.

It is sort of nice to know exactly what you are going to get (track times, skidpad, etc)

 

[MrClean]

I am really happy with my setup and would not change it. But the numbers on the roush package are really nice and the drop is just about perfect too.

It is sort of nice to know exactly what you are going to get (track times, skidpad, etc)

Yes, that is nice, and when I have more miles on my shocks/struts I will probably do the Roush setup.

Looking at your sig, you have the 14" Brembos...but the pic makes it look like you have stock 18" wheels....did you add spacers to allow for the Brembos to fit?

 

[ClassJ]

Indeed! H&R/eibach 1" bolt on spacers (although that pic was taken before the car was lowered or the brakes/spacers were done).

In addition to moving the outer wheel weights inboard a few inches to clear the caliper and I also trimmed the tips of all the wheel studs on the car to clear the back of the pockets in the factory wheels once the spacers were added.


Not fun stuff. But worth it imo. But the car really needed to be lowered that 1" to make it look right with the wheels out that far. The bulge of my tires are about 1/8" back from the outside wheel arch of the car. My real axll ended up being better centered after the springs were installed than before. But a perfectly centered axle is a must with the spacers or with a wheel that has similar offset.

 

[65sohc]

Hellwig makes good bars-adjustable front and rear. I bought both in a mustangsource group buy which they would probably still honor. The rear bar comes with nice beefy links.