Wot Box Problems

[Townson]

Hey guys, yesterday me and a friend of mine put my wot box in. Followed the instructions, all the solders held good and the only real problem we had was extending the ground wire, as it came WAY too short to reach the ground on the strut tower.

Long story short, everything works perfectly. I plugged my laptop in and set it up how I wanted it.

Every now and then though, the rpm's will dip slightly and then instantly go back to where they were. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or at operating temp. Or whether you're at idle or driving.

The box functions like it should in all aspects. 2-step works great, the no lift shift function works great.

It's not throwing any cels and it seems like it would be if any of the wiring was screwed up, since you're splicing into the harness. It's not anything major, just sort of annoying me. It rarely does it. I've driven it everywhere since yesterday and it's only done it maybe 4 times. Gonna call n2mb tomorrow.

But for now, input? Lol

 

[JUSTA3V]

I think anyone will tell you a log is in order to see what is happening.

 

[Townson]

I think anyone will tell you a log is in order to see what is happening.

As in data log with Bama? That should be fun lol

 

[JUSTA3V]

Yes. Bama huh?

 

[Townson]

Yes. Bama huh?

Yeahhh. I don't really have alot done other than intake, headers and exhaust. I'd like to get a dyno tune, just can't really justify it at the moment. I'm running the 93 v2 race right now and it's never given me trouble.

 

[Townson]

Also, just a thought here that I just had. This morning I completely reset my tune, cleared kam, returned to stock and then reloaded the tune. I drove it around 40 miles afterwards without a single issue.

Once I got close to home I gave it an easy no lift shift from 3-4 at a low rpm just playing around. When I got home, I put it in neutral and let it idle for a minute. Guess what? It stuttered.

My thinking is this: Could the unused fuel from when the ignition was cut possibly have dampened my plugs and left residue?

 

[Tbone]

Id drive it a while longer after resetting the pcm. It has an idle procedure to learn.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, passive air, purge "no flow", misfire and if closed loop is achieved, fuel trim.

Id drive it at least 100 miles also before I would start digging into things. A bit of fluttering at idle is normal for re learn from what Ive seen.

 

[Townson]

Id drive it a while longer after resetting the pcm. It has an idle procedure to learn.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, passive air, purge "no flow", misfire and if closed loop is achieved, fuel trim.

Id drive it at least 100 miles also before I would start digging into things. A bit of fluttering at idle is normal for re learn from what Ive seen.

Ok thanks. Could it cause it to flutter while driving as well? Its usually at a low rpm.

 

[Townson]

So I ran it for about 3 minutes with the a.c. and rear def. on. When I cut it off, it sounded like it was going to die, but then immediately resumed a normal idle. Let it run about 15 more minutes and it didn't do anything. Maybe that helped. I'll try it again tomorrow.

 

[s8v4o]

There are plenty of good solid grounds. You didn't have to install it at the strut mount. I wonder if the dip in the RPM is because of the clutch switch. Is it possible your foot is accidentally hitting the clutch pedal? Does it ever back fire on you?

 

[Townson]

No, no backfire. I suppose it's possible that I could have bumped the clutch pedal, but I'm not sure it would matter because it works off of the position of the clutch and the gas pedals. It's only supposed to work while they're fully depressed.

 

[Townson]

And also it's done it while I have it in neutral and I'm standing beside the car lol.

 

[JeremyH]

I would double check and triple check all the wiring and grounds from the install. Also check out the battery and alternator. Checking the plugs and gap wouldn't hurt either.

 

[Townson]

Spoke to someone from n2mb. Sent him pictures of the interface while the 2 step was active and at idle. He said everything looked fine.

So, it's got to be something with the car itself he says. I'm sort of leaning toward fouled plugs, but what gets me is that it was having idle problems on the initial start up after the install. I hadn't even used the 2 step yet.

Could it just be a coincidence that the plugs fouled at the exact same time or a little before? Starting to feel like I'm chasing a ghost now.

 

[Tbone]

Clean the maf and throttle body blade. Easy next step and cheap. Solved alot of idle issues. Use maf cleaner only on the maf, and use it to clean the blade. You may of had an issue before and only noticed it after the install because you were looking for something that's wrong.

Oh did you by chance remove the air intake during install? May be a vaccuum leak. Try reseating it.