Wow, untuned auto Coyotes are pretty sad!

[wbt]

The car in my sig below ran really strong for what it was six speed manual, my new to me Kona blue2011 auto is the super soft running one.

I'm just hoping the factory tune is just set-up way soft / safe possibly for these older Coyotes because they just came out with them at the time, and possibly an aftermarket tune along with a converter changes it quite a bit.

My 2012 GT has a converter, tune, headers, 3.31 rear gear. Stock intake manifold it has been 6.75 in the 1/8th mile.

Once you put a tune on the auto the manual trans cars cease to have any advantage and then become disadvantaged regardless if they have a tune or not N/A.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Put my 2013 back to complete stock (3.31 gear) and drove it 7 hours to pick up a 14 auto with 2100 miles on the car last November. I personally found auto-stock vs manual-stock the auto (3.15 gear) more fun to drive. That said...I have put the very same power adder package on the 14 auto and tuned with the same tuner. The 13 made 568whp. The 14 makes 519WHP. The 13 best on DR's was 11.49. The best so far on the 14 on the very same DR's has gone 11.03, and held its own with a stick shift 15 running a Whipple 2.9 last Friday evening. can't wait to get a Circle D in the thing next year...that's looking to be my 2017 upgrade wish list.


Give it a chance. It takes some getting used to not having to shift, but once you start seeing the consistency and the improvement on ET's I feel confident you'll be glad you did.

 

[Fosters]

I don't think that us guys who like to modify should get an auto. Different strokes for different folks. My stick car ran 12.8 @ 111 bone ass stock. Tune and off road H and it went 12.23 @ 115. 11.97 @ 115 on slicks. I honestly couldn't imagine drag racing in an auto.

I have no experience with an auto either (never even driven one), but I had a friend with a 2012 auto that dropped .3 in the 1/4 from the FRPP tune alone.

I ran 12.6@ 113 bone stock in the auto; dropped to 12.0@116 with drag radials , converter and tune. it's more than capable of spinning the tires stock; I'm guessing you haven't turned the system completely off, but on mine at least it wouldn't go anywhere. Also, my best times came with the system in sport mode - as it was pretty much useless in 1st otherwise. Driver mod probably required...

Put my 2013 back to complete stock (3.31 gear) and drove it 7 hours to pick up a 14 auto with 2100 miles on the car last November. I personally found auto-stock vs manual-stock the auto (3.15 gear) more fun to drive. That said...I have put the very same power adder package on the 14 auto and tuned with the same tuner. The 13 made 568whp. The 14 makes 519WHP. The 13 best on DR's was 11.49. The best so far on the 14 on the very same DR's has gone 11.03, and held its own with a stick shift 15 running a Whipple 2.9 last Friday evening. can't wait to get a Circle D in the thing next year...that's looking to be my 2017 upgrade wish list.


Give it a chance. It takes some getting used to not having to shift, but once you start seeing the consistency and the improvement on ET's I feel confident you'll be glad you did.

Just outta curiosity, which DRs are you running and what size? And how do they do on the street? I am now on 325/50/15 nitto 555R with 551 at the wheels through a Circle D 3C and 1st gear is worthless... lol.

 

[skaarlaj]

I ran 12.6@ 113 bone stock in the auto; dropped to 12.0@116 with drag radials , converter and tune. it's more than capable of spinning the tires stock; I'm guessing you haven't turned the system completely off, but on mine at least it wouldn't go anywhere. Also, my best times came with the system in sport mode - as it was pretty much useless in 1st otherwise. Driver mod probably required...



Just outta curiosity, which DRs are you running and what size? And how do they do on the street? I am now on 325/50/15 nitto 555R with 551 at the wheels through a Circle D 3C and 1st gear is worthless... lol.

What is "sport mode" ? TC off, advance trac off, and aside from pushing the pedal down harder, how does one acquire the driver mod in an auto. The only thing I know of is build up rpm's a little shy of the point of spinning or pushing through the brakes and trade feet?

 

[5tangiac.0]

What is "sport mode" ? TC off, advance trac off, and aside from pushing the pedal down harder, how does one acquire the driver mod in an auto. Build up rpm's a little shy of the point of spinning or pushing through the brakes and trade feet?

Shifter in "S" is sport mode. It will shift automatically until you hit the select shift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cbass]

Did a couple of test launches in the parking lot at work with the new springs and the wider wheels on my car. It launches harder than I could usually get my stick car by two footing it to about 1500. Try being abusive, it really helps.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Just outta curiosity, which DRs are you running and what size? And how do they do on the street? I am now on 325/50/15 nitto 555R with 551 at the wheels through a Circle D 3C and 1st gear is worthless... lol.

I am looking at the 1c, 2c for that very reason. 4.17 1st gear ratio is the shortest I have ever come across in any tranny since I actually started paying attention to those numbers. 3000 stall is the absolute max for me. I wish to keep the car FULLY streetable and capable of going on long trips. 2c is what Circle spec'd based on my initial setup data I sent them. Did you have to send your stall back to be reworked after initial install or did it hit correctly right out of the box? Just curious. I've been told (and you know how that goes) that in order to get everything just right datalogging passes and sending the converter back several times are required to get everything right. TRUE? FALSE? POSSIBLY? You'd think a stall converter would be good for a certain range of torque and HP just as a clutch would be, but then again I am new to this automatic concept.

I'm running a 295/45/17 MT ET Street II tire. They are about 2.5 years old and due for replacement soon. They do okay on the street to and from the track at 18-20psi. I don't drive on them otherwise. I'm debating going to a15x8 wheel for a wider variety of tire options next season if not sooner. OR I may just go to the Hoosier Radial Slick (only one in a 28 I have found for a 17) and run that on the existing 17x9.5's. Haven't really decided.

Drivers at my local track tell me I need a bias ply because of how crappy the prep work is. I've cut 1.60's there at that track and I have cut 2.2's there at that track on he same DR's depending on how its prepped. Def more of a street experience there than a track experience. Running at other tracks like National Trail in Columbus or Kilkare Raceway in Xenia is a night and day difference. Wish I had a hauler so I could hit places like Bunker Hill, Muncie, and Indianapolis with some level of comfort knowing I'd have a way to get it home if something were to happen. AAA and roadside only goes so far.

 

[Sky Render]

Shifter in "S" is sport mode. It will shift automatically until you hit the select shift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. Sport mode refers to double-tapping the AdvanceTrac button whilst holding the brake pedal. It dials back traction and stability controls without turning them off.

 

[cbass]

No. Sport mode refers to double-tapping the AdvanceTrac button whilst holding the brake pedal. It dials back traction and stability controls without turning them off.

Two sport modes. One is AdvanceTrac, which is done through the TC button, one is transmission, done by selecting the S on the shifter.

 

[Sky Render]

Two sport modes. One is AdvanceTrac, which is done through the TC button, one is transmission, done by selecting the S on the shifter.

I thought we were talking about a 2012 here, which doesn't have Select Shift. That was only in the '13s and '14s. The previous two years had PRND321.

 

[cbass]

I thought we were talking about a 2012 here, which doesn't have Select Shift. That was only in the '13s and '14s. The previous two years had PRND321.

That's just ignorant. Why does Ford always have mid-run changes, that they probably knew about from the intro of the design?! Like the 2010 guys who got all the rugged good looks of the 11's, but the lackluster stock performance of the 3v. Or how 15's got MFT and the 16's got the sync 3. I'm actually glad about the last one, though. Seems that sync 3 has issues and not being able to set a background sound horrible.

 

[Sky Render]

That's just ignorant. Why does Ford always have mid-run changes, that they probably knew about from the intro of the design?! Like the 2010 guys who got all the rugged good looks of the 11's, but the lackluster stock performance of the 3v. Or how 15's got MFT and the 16's got the sync 3. I'm actually glad about the last one, though. Seems that sync 3 has issues and not being able to set a background sound horrible.

No kidding. My '14 Fusion has that "S" mode in the transmission, and it's fun to drive like that. Holds lower gears longer, downshifts when braking, keeps the motor in the torque curve and the turbo spooled up.

Apparently, you can convert an '11 or '12 auto to the '13+ "Select Shift" transmission, but it seems to be a decent amount of work and requires new steering wheel, new gauge cluster, new gear selector, etc. There's a thread in the 2011-2014 5.0 section of this forum.

 

[skaarlaj]

It's just crazy to me that a powerful car with a super low first gear won't spin the tires from a stop. I really can't tell if it's just low on tq, or if the actual throttle body isn't doing what my right foot is telling it to do.

Either way, I fully plan on modding the car until it performs the way it should. Hopefully a tune and converter will make a HUGE difference.

My old manual car went 8.5's at in the 1/8th and 12.7 - 13 flat above 110 mph
new auto car went 9.3 in the 1/8th and 14.2 @ 103 in the 1/4 AKA weak-sauce
These numbers are from my G-tech pro, not track numbers btw

 

[redfirepearlgt]

It's just crazy to me that a powerful car with a super low first gear won't spin the tires from a stop. I really can't tell if it's just low on tq, or if the actual throttle body isn't doing what my right foot is telling it to do.

Either way, I fully plan on modding the car until it performs the way it should. Hopefully a tune and converter will make a HUGE difference.

My old manual car went 8.5's at in the 1/8th and 12.7 - 13 flat above 110 mph
new auto car went 9.3 in the 1/8th and 14.2 @ 103 in the 1/4 AKA weak-sauce
These numbers are from my G-tech pro, not track numbers btw

Get that thing tuned. It will be like driving a whole new car. Many, many strategies within the tune protecting the car which inhibit things like brake torque burn outs, and so forth. Believe me you made the right choice. Google 6r80 tear down and inspection video some time. It's a seriously beefy setup even from the factory. The guy even shows how everything works together to create the various gear ratios and shifting processes.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

That's just ignorant. Why does Ford always have mid-run changes, that they probably knew about from the intro of the design?! Like the 2010 guys who got all the rugged good looks of the 11's, but the lackluster stock performance of the 3v. Or how 15's got MFT and the 16's got the sync 3. I'm actually glad about the last one, though. Seems that sync 3 has issues and not being able to set a background sound horrible.

I test drove a 2016 over the weekend. I really didn't care for the new Sync 3 compared to MFT. It looks.....cheap.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Thats why you should wait for a '17 Lucas!

 

[RazorbackMustang]

Thats why you should wait for a '17 Lucas!

I'm not buying a new Mustang!

 

[wbt]

Thats why you should wait for a '17 Lucas!

Drivetrain changes are coming too. 10 speed auto, more power, etc.

15-16's will become like the '96-'98 GT's.

 

[cbass]

Drivetrain changes are coming too. 10 speed auto, more power, etc.

15-17's will become like the '96-'98 GT's.

FTFY. And I doubt they'll be THAT bad. It's not like they went down in power from the previous year.

But I got my 15 for a deal. If the 18's are really that much better, I am sure I can bamboozle my way into one.

 

[skaarlaj]

Drivetrain changes are coming too. 10 speed auto, more power, etc.

15-16's will become like the '96-'98 GT's.

putting that into perspective, I'm bitching about my 2011 barely trapping 103mph here in 8500da completely stock, when my 97 gt using nitrous and quite a few bolt-ons barely trapped 102 in Phoenix air at night that would probably only be around 1500' or so. Times change quickly fo sho. Oh and I remember I was proud of my 97GT trapping 102 at the time, hahaha!