All Motor Chat - High Gearing, Light weight, Revin to the moon-

[Germeezy3]

HEY! What's going on here??

My car likes 6800 across the board, rev limiter is at 7200

What rpm does your power peak at?

 

[ArtQ]

Don't know...LOL I use the track for my dyno

 

[chad05gt]

Yup I made it

Well we scatter out convo's on ideas and plans all over the place. So tech can be in here, shooting the shit, and Idea's are always welcome.


so Ive been thinking of getting my ring gear lightened


Just because. All Motor Crew #'s pm me if wanted.

thank the SC Chat boys for the Idea, couldn't let em have all the fun round here.

put gear oil in blender... dosesnt spin well, eh?!?!

throw 40wt in rear

 

[Matt D]

Stock rod weight - 615 grams
Manly H- beam rod weight 598 Grams

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Stock rod weight - 615 grams
Manly H- beam rod weight 598 Grams

Wow....looking at rod weight.....its getting extreme....but noted. I plan on building a 10:1 or 11:1 N/A combo for mine next year..

 

[fdjizm]

Stock rod weight - 615 grams
Manly H- beam rod weight 598 Grams

I know i'm not the first one to notice, but when you are weighing rods, you may have a weight OCD thing going on ahahahaahaaha
0.00024 milligrams = 0.0012 in the 1/4!!!!

 

[Matt D]

Wow....looking at rod weight.....its getting extreme....but noted. I plan on building a 10:1 or 11:1 N/A combo for mine next year..

Go 11:1 to even bother with 10:1 lol

To be honest... im looking into build this 4.6 bottom end this winter. I should have some specs shortly.

Until I can afford to do the 5.0 swap the way I want -_-

Im going to keep it under 289 cubic inch to fit nmra pure street or nmca mean street rules. I have to price the cost of a few differn't types of race fuel monday...

 

[Matt D]

I have already converted, no need for cookies. I installed my 4.56s last week.

And yes Matt I think you are the highest. Mine is set @ 6800.

Yeeeeee Boi

HEY! What's going on here??

My car likes 6800 across the board, rev limiter is at 7200, if the track will take it I'll launch off the limiter..

Welcome into the best thread yet to come of all of our misc threads

 

[Matt D]

Plus I better be ready for Tulsa in April. Art is steppin his game up lol

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Yeeeeee Boi




Welcome into the best thread yet to come of all of our misc threads

Go 11:1 to even bother with 10:1 lol

To be honest... im looking into build this 4.6 bottom end this winter. I should have some specs shortly.

Until I can afford to do the 5.0 swap the way I want -_-

Im going to keep it under 289 cubic inch to fit nmra pure street or nmca mean street rules. I have to price the cost of a few differn't types of race fuel monday...

I'll keep that in mind when I start collecting parts. The Bullitt is permanent N/A, at least for as long as I own it. I plan on grabbing a Termi or 05-09 GT500 as my FI car down the road.

Im looking more towards a 298+ combo.....my friend currently has a 298 stroker shortblock sitting in his garage with 3100 miles on it that we pulled out a month ago. Its 8:7 CR for boost and is being replaced by built 5.4L.

If I can scrape up the cash I could snag that block, rebuild it at a higher compression ratio and add a nice set of heads and cams....but who knows. My original plan is taking SD & Shadowlands 323 shortblock......

Millions of ideas, not enough money.....what to do.

 

[Matt D]

I know the feeling... I want to have 4 motors on stands with differn't set ups and just slap them in for differn't events

I will spend about $2000 doing the bottom end doing it my self and it will get me that extra edge for awhile. My biggest issue.... Do I go 11:1 and run pump gas street race on the track or go higher and run race gas all the time -_-

I want to fit certain classes and the stroker isn't worth it for me right now. Im sorcin out the lightest rods right now.. going to coat the top of thr pistons, change up the cams maybe... I love this stuff

 

[GrnBullitt08]

At the price of race gas it makes it even harder, just another dent in the wallet, plus its not easy convienent

 

[Matt D]

I know -_- but I don't drive it everyday lol... so maybe it might be worth it

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Yeah definitely... Especially since your staying away from larger bore/ stroker motor setups. Higher compression and race gas will be your friend

 

[Matt D]

Yea I don't have many choices for more hp other then compression

 

[US-1]

its my understanding that porting has a negative effect on low end...one tends to lose velocity, therefore low end torque...

Which is a popular belief held among people who have no fuckin' idea what they're talking about. Cylinder head porting, when done correctly, does not lose low speed velocity through the intake tract nor does it cause a loss of low end torque/horsepower.

Stock rod weight - 615 grams
Manly H- beam rod weight 598 Grams

Modmax I beams = 580 grams. There are lighter rods out there if you've got the cash and the time.

I know i'm not the first one to notice, but when you are weighing rods, you may have a weight OCD thing going on ahahahaahaaha
0.00024 milligrams = 0.0012 in the 1/4!!!!

Actually....that math doesn't apply in this instance. Lighter rods/pistons/crank assembly allow the engine to accelerate quicker through the rpm range. The quicker the engine accelerates...the quicker the car accelerates. Simple. Same thing applies to cylinder head components. You can actually go beyond just lightweight components. There are coatings and surface finishing that help the components rpm quicker and shed oil so there is less windage and oil drag. You guys can talk bigger cams, more gear, higher shift points, etc, etc......truly, seriously powerful N/A engines are an art form and border on a black art.

 

[Matt D]

Which is a popular belief held among people who have no fuckin' idea what they're talking about. Cylinder head porting, when done correctly, does not lose low speed velocity through the intake tract nor does it cause a loss of low end torque/horsepower.



Modmax I beams = 580 grams. There are lighter rods out there if you've got the cash and the time.


Actually....that math doesn't apply in this instance. Lighter rods/pistons/crank assembly allow the engine to accelerate quicker through the rpm range. The quicker the engine accelerates...the quicker the car accelerates. Simple. Same thing applies to cylinder head components. You can actually go beyond just lightweight components. There are coatings and surface finishing that help the components rpm quicker and shed oil so there is less windage and oil drag. You guys can talk bigger cams, more gear, higher shift points, etc, etc......truly, seriously powerful N/A engines are an art form and border on a black art.

Can you point me in which direction for lighter rods? I plan on getting the skirts coated from manley and the top's I will get coated locally. Any other tricks on your mind? lol I need a good pan scraper too.. the livernois one doesn't cover nearly asm uch as I thought it would

 

[Matt D]

Diamonds website isn't loading for me -_- I hear they have some trick modular stuff

 

[marcspaz]

Who is spinning there 3V motor the highest?

I think I am.... Ive hit 7500 lol

For what it's worth, I was doing 7k hole shots and shifting at 7.5k with a 8k rev limit. Did that for almost 3 years on a stock bottom-end. 67,000 miles and about 600 passes before the stock bettom-end let go. I think that is pretty damn good.

 

[US-1]

Rods and pistons - Carrillo and CP. Then there are titanium rods if you have deep enough pockets.

If you're looking for lightweight, Matt, you should forget Manley. Nice pistons and they hold up quite well but they aren't the lightest slugs in town either. The lightest of the shelf pistons come from CP.