amsoil

[HellsBells]

Well, the Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 went in there yesterday. I couldn't believe it. I couldn't tell a difference. LOL



How is it a pyramid scheme? Are you talking about because they have dealers that get a cut of the people who become preferred customers? What websites are you talking about though?

Either way, it couldn't make any difference to me. I'm happy with their oil. Amsoil and Redline are without a doubt the two best companies to go with when it comes to oil in my opinion.

Sorry if I didn't explain myself clearly. I meant that it seems like a pyramid scheme or a matrix scheme because of the way they market. I didn't say they were one, it's just one of those things that seems weird. If there's good reason behind it, then that's fine (as was explained in the thread afterwards).

When I researched, I think I remember they were mostly dealer websites but they layout and style was just so horrific (borderline propaganda). I don't mind if you push a product but at least do it in a classy way. Even the URL addresses are super cheesy:

http://www.thebestoil.com/
http://www.bestsynthetic.com/
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/
http://www.thefirstsyntheticoil.com/
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/oilairandfuelfiltration2.htm


Either way, let me make this clear: I'm not doubting the quality of Amsoil products, I've used them myself and have gotten used oil analysis on them which showed great performance. I just couldn't justify the price, that's all. I've seen just as good, if not better results, with cheaper oils. Likewise, when I spent $29/quart on Motul 300v, I saw great results (even better than Amsoil) but nothing worth spending that kind of money. And yes, i realize $29/quart is way more expensive than Amsoil (even when you buy it at NAPA auto parts), but I just had to find out for myself.

Now here is the catch for me that I don't get: people who like Amsoil always praise it and how it's so great. Meanwhile, Amsoil tends to market their products for extended oil change intervals--yet, most people I know that use Amsoil use it on their daily driver and/or race cars and regularly change the oil out as early at 1500-2000 miles. From the oil analysis that I have seen and done, the true difference for Amsoil (and many other higher quality oils) is simply the fact that they hold up much longer than other cheaper oils.

My personal approach will always be: try an oil, get an analysis, read analysis, and then proceed accordingly. If a $3/quart oil is showing you great results that are comparable to the $6/qt or $10/qt oil, then aren't you just wasting money (unless of course you extend the interval and keep up on oil analysis reports and can show to yourself that it lasts longer). I also realize that peace of mind is also worth something, if that's what you're buying, then no one is the wiser to tell you otherwise. Either way, I personally would rather do 3000 mile oil changes than push 15,000 miles on a higher quality oil. Sure, the higher quality oil may actually be holding up better than the lesser oil at 3000 miles, but hey, it's my piece of mind (I think of it as flushing it all out and whatnot). Real world example, you have one of two choices:

A: Poo once every day on a regular basis, maintain healthy digestive cycle.
B: Poo once a month, maintain a healthy digestive cycle but know that, even though you can hold all that poo inside you with no problem, that it's still kind of nasty, even if it's technically adequate.

I pick A. Pooing is awesome.

 

[BruceH]

IMO it is a multilevel marketing company. Similar in structure to avon or amway.

At one time I had signed up as a dealer through someone with the last name of Mann. He would get a percentage of my sales/purchases.

What turned me off was all the stuff that came with my trial membership. Material on pool supplies, health supplements, amsoil apparel, and lots of material on how I could make money by signing my friends up as dealers. I went from being ready to place an order for a years worth of oil for all my vehicles to having all the alarm bells go off.

I believe that whenever someone posts a question about amsoil it is usually a lead in for amsoil dealers.

BTW if you really want to give amsoil a try it can be bought at most napa stores. Not just oil but gear lube, tranny, etc. There is no need to buy a membership just to try the product. The end result of buying in is you will buy more product to get your "investment" back.

 

[NastyStang113]

Those websites are just dealers selling Amsoil oil. It's not Amsoil themselves.

In the end, it's all personal preference. Who's to tell anyone what to spend their money on?

Bruce I also got those "packets" of information but never got them afterwards.

 

[HellsBells]

Those websites are just dealers selling Amsoil oil. It's not Amsoil themselves.

In the end, it's all personal preference. Who's to tell anyone what to spend their money on?

Bruce I also got those "packets" of information but never got them afterwards.

I hear they stop being sent if you sign up for the penis enhanceme...oh wait....i see......

 

[NastyStang113]

No doubt. I have to mod everything I own. I wanted to be able to give the lungs a tickle.

 

[HellsBells]

No doubt. I have to mod everything I own. I wanted to be able to give the lungs a tickle.

I keep telling women at work that they need new mods and I keep losing my jobs. What gives????

 

[AndrewG27]

I love amsoil products and have been using them for about two years now. I just got a 2012 gt and I want to know what weight of oil I should be putting in?
They don't have a signature series 5w20, just 0w20.
My first oil change I did about a month ago I put the XL5w20 in. Would the 0w20 be better? I just didn't want to sway from the specified 5w20 without more information.
Thanks

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I love amsoil products and have been using them for about two years now. I just got a 2012 gt and I want to know what weight of oil I should be putting in?
They don't have a signature series 5w20, just 0w20.
My first oil change I did about a month ago I put the XL5w20 in. Would the 0w20 be better? I just didn't want to sway from the specified 5w20 without more information.
Thanks

Amsoil Signature 0W-20 is far superior to 5W-20 XL or OE. So many people think the first number being a "0" means it's thinner at engine operating temperatures, when in fact...it's the same viscosity. The difference is, 0W-20 doesn't thicken as much as 5W-20 as it cools. It flows better when the temps are freezing.

Amsoil 0W-20 is formulated with a group IV base stock "true synthetic", and why it has superior cold flow properties versus their 5W-20 "refined petroleum" formulations. It will also have much longer oil change intervals than the 5W-20. Cold morning starts will be much easier. 8 quarts of Amsoil 0W-20 in your engine will make a 10,000 mile oil change a breeze (Ford's oil life interval in the new Mustang)!

If you live where the temps rarely dip below 32*F, and your car isn't a stock grocery getter, I prefer 30 grade lubricants in the Ford modular. You should read more of my posts in this thread to find out why.

 

[ixtlan]

First you need to understand what happens to make an oil "Bad".
Oil does not "Wear Out" and go bad. Instead what happens is the
additives get "used up" or rather change chemical properties.
The change is caused by heat and heat is caused by friction.
Synthetic oils are atomically smaller particles than conventional oil
particles. Like the old commercial said "Think of it a small ball bearings".
The smaller particles will be able to occupy smaller voids than bigger
particles. This reduces the contact of the engine materials with each
other thus friction is reduced and heat is reduced.
The end result is the additives last longer because the heat does not
change the chemical properties of the additives.
The other result is that since contact is reduced Wear is also reduced.
Paraffin is used as a base for many oils, or as an additive carrier in many syn oils.


What happens to form sludge is the oil suspends the particles (carbon, metal, other contaminates) in the oil to carry it to the filter. The filter
will remove these particles only down to a certain size. The remainder are reintroduced into the engine in the oil. The filter also has a capacity in which it can hold. The oil reaches a saturation point and can no longer suspend the particles and they begin to settle out of the oil. This is Sludge.
This re-intro is also wear causing.
Much like sand being in the oil for an exaggerated example.
So why use paraffin in oil?
Paraffin will hold more particles than the Naphtha based oils.
It appears to Sludge more because once the saturation point is reached the depositing is more prevalent.
So what about the Additives, What are they?
Additives are the anti-foaming, anti-separation, anti carbon, and the agents that suspend the particles in the oil.
Once these are saturated or used in the case of the foaming and carbon agents the oil is "Bad".
Since the synthetic reduces the wear and friction thus reducing the contaminates the oil can last longer.
But even a synthetic will saturate and use the additives over time.
That is why even if you run a synthetic like AMSOil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1 you still need to change the filter even if you don't change the oil. And after time you need to change the oil because the additives are used up.

I have used AMSOil since it's introduction in the late 70's.
It is a full syn (base as well as additive) product.
Not a blend or base syn with additive dyno as a carrier.
I am sold on the product regardless of the marketing.
My first use I had to turn down my idle speed because it increased due to the oil change. That told me one thing. Less Friction.
I was previously using Valvoline Racing at the time.

When I rebuilt the engine when upgrading it I also saw how clean the internals were compared to other motors I had rebuilt.
So this sold me again.

Regardless of the brand you use synthetic is the way to go.
AMSOil is rated for one year or 25k miles (Signature series).
The additives at this point cannot be guaranteed without testing.
The OE and XL series are made to compete with the cheaper dino and non full syn market.

I obviously have made my choice and use it in all my vehicles except my 90 Ranger that leaks so bad it gets an oil change through attrition anyway.

Just my opinion.






​

 

[UnleashedBeast]

That is why even if you run a synthetic like AMSOil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1 you still need to change the filter even if you don't change the oil. And after time you need to change the oil because the additives are used up.

[FONT=&quot]I choose the EAO11 oil filter for every Ford modular I owned because of the greater capacity of the filter. It has no problem performing under a 15,000 mile interval. I can't say that about the cheap Motorcraft 820 filter that some people buy for 3.97 at WalMart. Those were made for 7,500 miles or less.

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]AMSOil is rated for one year or 25k miles (Signature series).
The additives at this point cannot be guaranteed without testing.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Which is why I recommend everyone stick to the severe service schedule of 15,000 miles, since I can guarantee every person can count on Signature Series to perform 100% during that interval. [/QUOTE]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The OE and XL series are made to compete with the cheaper dino and non full syn market.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Amsoil started something here, and Mobil 1 followed in a similar pattern. OE and XL under preferred customer/dealer pricing is what I expect to pay for group III base stock lubricants(XL with a group IV blended with group III). Mobil 1 is cheating people. [/FONT]

Good post Ixtlan





​

 

[Seer]

Religion, Politics and Oil Threads. Three internet topics that start wars lol

 

[AndrewG27]

Amsoil Signature 0W-20 is far superior to 5W-20 XL or OE. So many people think the first number being a "0" means it's thinner at engine operating temperatures, when in fact...it's the same viscosity. The difference is, 0W-20 doesn't thicken as much as 5W-20 as it cools. It flows better when the temps are freezing.

Amsoil 0W-20 is formulated with a group IV base stock "true synthetic", and why it has superior cold flow properties versus their 5W-20 "refined petroleum" formulations. It will also have much longer oil change intervals than the 5W-20. Cold morning starts will be much easier. 8 quarts of Amsoil 0W-20 in your engine will make a 10,000 mile oil change a breeze (Ford's oil life interval in the new Mustang)!

If you live where the temps rarely dip below 32*F, and your car isn't a stock grocery getter, I prefer 30 grade lubricants in the Ford modular. You should read more of my posts in this thread to find out why.

Thanks for the info. I will definitely use the signature series next time.
And my car is a daily driver, but the trips are usually over 30 miles each way. And I won't be driving it during the winter. I'm in Oregon and they put rocks on the road to help with ice. So it screws up the entire front of the car.

 

[Seer]

How about Group V, Ester based Synthetics, like Motul, Eneos etc? They typically receive higher benches than the group IVs

 

[Grabber]

Just to add. I have never heard of adding 8 quarts of oil to an S197. Pretty sure the valves will be submerged after 7 or so quarts.

I am going to switch up to 0W-20 and give it a go. I'll try sending in my results to a Lab to show what a Blower car does to oil after 3K miles and see what kind of characteristics are good/bad.

 

[Seer]

Just to add. I have never heard of adding 8 quarts of oil to an S197. Pretty sure the valves will be submerged after 7 or so quarts.

I am going to switch up to 0W-20 and give it a go. I'll try sending in my results to a Lab to show what a Blower car does to oil after 3K miles and see what kind of characteristics are good/bad.

the 5.0 takes 8qts

 

[Grabber]

the 5.0 takes 8qts

I meant the 05-09.

Wasn't sure what car the one person was speaking about.

Now I know.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

How about Group V, Ester based Synthetics, like Motul, Eneos etc? They typically receive higher benches than the group IVs

The primary benefit of esters are polarity. This allows the base stock stick to the surface of metals and reduce/eliminate dry starts where most engine wear occurs. Some group IV lubricants contain smaller amounts of blended in group V esters for this reason.

Most people complain that true group IV based lubricants are too costly, and not worth the performance gain (in their opinion). Ester based lubricants are even more costly. Some as much as $30.00 per quart.

IMO, I think a true group IV formulated with higher amounts of ZDDP offers the best bang for the buck protection in engine lubricants.

 

[Seer]

The primary benefit of esters are polarity. This allows the base stock stick to the surface of metals and reduce/eliminate dry starts where most engine wear occurs. Some group IV contain smaller amounts of blended in group V esters for this reason.

Most people complain that true group IV based lubricants are too costly, and not worth the performance gain (in their opinion). Ester based lubricants are even more costly. Some as much as $30.00 per quart.

IMO, I think a true group IV formulated with higher amounts of ZDDP offers the best bang for the buck protection in engine lubricants.

Was just curious, I am seeing a lot of Nissan cars coming from the factory stating Group V recommended. Which brands have high amounts of zddp?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Which brands have high amounts of zddp?

Amsoil signature series, Red Line, and some Royal Purple formulations.

 

[Seer]

Amsoil signature series, Red Line, and some Royal Purple formulations.

Was most likely going to go with RP this oil change. 5w20