Boost Brothers Turbo Install.

JeremyH

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Ditto. Key-on source to power gauges and then I powered my gauge back lighting off the the dash dimmer switch by the headlight switch so you can dim the gauge backlighting. They come on when you turn the headlights on and you can dim them along wiith the dash lighting this way.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Put some gas in that beotch.

The vac line is going to have to come from the engine bay, unfortunately. Look for holes in the firewall. There is one behind the battery area on the passenger side, but you'll need to remove the fender well liners to get to it.

I had a bunch of stuff that came in at the drivers side of the car. I found a 1" rubber grommet at AutoZone and used a 1" hole saw to cut a new hole in the firewall. Everything on that side of the car runs through that grommet. It's a PITA, but it's nice to have a readily accessible hole in the firewall to run wires through.

You need a 12v accessory line. You can easily tell what is powered on with the car when you turn on the key with a little investigative work. Use a test light or a multimeter and power the car on. You can check for a good one by putting the positive lead on one of the holes on top of each fuse. Be aware, though... some have more "noise" on them than the others.

No idea why you were looking at the passenger side firewall as there is plenty of room on the drivers side for wiring and the boost gauge tubing.

As others have said tap into the vaccum line coming off the fuel pressure sending unit line for your vaccum source.
 

Flapjack

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No idea why you were looking at the passenger side firewall as there is plenty of room on the drivers side for wiring and the boost gauge tubing.

As others have said tap into the vaccum line coming off the fuel pressure sending unit line for your vaccum source.
I guess I haven't found that yet. All my gauges are in the center, so it was really a matter of choice. All I know is that I have 00 gauge positive battery cable coming in through the passenger side, along with other wiring as well as the vacuum line. Never had a problem.

When I install my boost controller, I'll check out the driver's side. Is it in the same place as the passenger side hole is in?
 

JeremyH

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Both sides have the large grommet where the main harness goes through into the fender well. There are more on the drivers side becasue of the pedals. On an auto car there is actualy a large baseball size grommet that is completely unused as there is no clutch, that goes into the engine bay.
 

Randy_S_14

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Just tap the boost gauge into the vac line that goes to the fuel rail. There is a fuse in the passengers side foot well that is on with key on and doesn't lose power during cranking. I can look tommorrow for sure but I think it is the uppermost 5amp fuse kind of in the center. Just check with a volt meter or test light.

Anyone have a picture of this? I am pretty sure I did it right but for some reason my gauge is reading 18-25psi while the car is idling...
 

Randy_S_14

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you sure there isn't a "-" in front of that?


there was no " - " in front of the numbers.

This is where I placed the t-fitting and hose for the boost gauge.

2011-09-19_19-25-34_249-1.jpg



Also this is a old picture. I cut/welded the pipe for the filter to get it away from the fan and hot air. It also had a place to put the other vac line so I dont need breathers now either.
 

Randy_S_14

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That is the correct spot. You car should read around -20 at idle.

hmm, maybe the gauge is messed up then... or it doesnt read a " - " sign...

Thanks

Still need the pic?

No, but thank you anyway!!




Now I am just waiting on BBR... I don't know if they are going to tune it now. At first he told me he could do it but I don't know now.
 

Fallenauthority

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hmm, maybe the gauge is messed up then... or it doesnt read a " - " sign...

Thanks



No, but thank you anyway!!




Now I am just waiting on BBR... I don't know if they are going to tune it now. At first he told me he could do it but I don't know now.
*COUGH*LITO*COUGH*
Fuck BBR, bunch of hypocrite product pushing assholes.
 

Fallenauthority

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Lito probably has better things to worry about than tuning my ebay turbo kit.


I am kinda considering it though. Takes BBR an awefull long time to e-mail a person back.


Do you know what he usually charges?
Lito will tune you no problem, he tuned my on3 kit. He has the best service of any tuner I know.
I am sure it is cheaper than BBR, I dont want to say what I was charged but he was VERY reasonable. What is BBR charging?
 

Randy_S_14

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Also how does the whole remote tuning thing go? I guess I download SCT Livelink, hook up my SCT Livewire to my car and my laptop then just drive or what? How does the wideband come into the whole picture? I know it tells the a/f ratio but how do you log it?
 

Randy_S_14

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Lito will tune you no problem, he tuned my on3 kit. He has the best service of any tuner I know.
I am sure it is cheaper than BBR, I dont want to say what I was charged but he was VERY reasonable. What is BBR charging?


I think he said a basic Turbo tune is like $170

But for an all out remote tune it is $500


Edit: I will try and get ahold of Lito, see what he thinks.
 

Fallenauthority

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Also how does the whole remote tuning thing go? I guess I download SCT Livelink, hook up my SCT Livewire to my car and my laptop then just drive or what? How does the wideband come into the whole picture? I know it tells the a/f ratio but how do you log it?
Yep, Livelink and hook your livewire up to the car and your laptop and you log. Real simple. You will have to buy a firewire cable to log your wideband with. I just bought a cheap firewire cable off of amazon and cut it in half and wired my analog out wire to the proper wire in the cable and now I can log it in livelink. I dont have the site in my favorites anymore but there is a good thread on here somewhere about hooking up your SCT device with an analog input from a wideband
 

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