Blew it up right! Blown motor thread #923703460460

[BruceH]

I had 9.4:1 pistons, stock heads, 127300 cams, frpp 62mm tb, and a 2.3 whipple pushing 17psi through factory cats. Made 553rwhp at 17 degrees of timing on 92 pump.

The same setup made 599 at 23 degrees of spark advance with 15psi and E85.

 

[Brenspeed]

Our rotating assemblies are currently on sale! Check them out!

http://www.brenspeed.com/05-08-mustang-engine-engine.html

 

[AbdullaGT500]

I had 9.4:1 pistons, stock heads, 127300 cams, frpp 62mm tb, and a 2.3 whipple pushing 17psi through factory cats. Made 553rwhp at 17 degrees of timing on 92 pump.

The same setup made 599 at 23 degrees of spark advance with 15psi and E85.

It seems the whipple stops making power past 13 lbs of boost from what I've seen unless some major changes are made. From what I've seen it looks as though the sheet metal intake/elbow thing with an upgraded tb does wonders for this setup. I really don't want to max out the blower trying to reach my power goals. I'd feel more comfortable around 16-17 lbs of boost and don't really want to go any higher.

 

[lito]

It seems the whipple stops making power past 13 lbs of boost from what I've seen unless some major changes are made. From what I've seen it looks as though the sheet metal intake/elbow thing with an upgraded tb does wonders for this setup. I really don't want to max out the blower trying to reach my power goals. I'd feel more comfortable around 16-17 lbs of boost and don't really want to go any higher.

No, they make more, if you are not 3000ft high as me you will make 16psi on the steeda's kit second to last balancer pulley. It won't be in it's more efficient area of the map but it will work without any issues.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Will I need the Steeda kit if I'm going to make 16 lbs of boost or will an 8 rib setup do the job?

 

[lito]

I have never made the math to translate what the steeda's balancer/SC pulley would represent as a single pulley with stock sized balancer so don't know if that can be done with a 8 rib, or even if the sc shroud would allow.

With the steeda kit (is expensive, I know) you just forget about slip and belt breakage.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Looks like I have so much to learn!
Although now I've decided to go with the aluminator for sure. Brenspeed says their 302 is temporarily discontinued since they ran out of blocks, and JDM's 302 has gone up in price by $1000 unless I have a core, which I do not.

 

[BoostedGT480]

There is a block in the for sale section for $300

 

[AbdullaGT500]

There is a block in the for sale section for $300

It's sold. I'm going to get something ordered this weekend.

Should I get a TSS oil pump or will the Ford racing unit suffice?

 

[BoostedGT480]

The Ford Racing one doesnt have billet gears..Just make sure the pump you get has them...TSS has one thats almost $400 and Melling has one that is closer to $300..I personally run the melling

 

[rford426]

You have to lock out VCT with the melling I would go ford racing pump with TSS billet gears if you plan on keeping vct.

 

[BoostedGT480]

You have to lock out VCT with the melling I would go ford racing pump with TSS billet gears if you plan on keeping vct.

forgot about that minor detail...lol! Are you planning on getting cams and locking them out? If not, go the route rford suggested

 

[AbdullaGT500]

I was just planning on some 127300 cams without lockouts. The aluminator comes with a Ford Racing pump, which is why I asked. So I should send the pump to tss and have them install the billet gears?

 

[GerRod]

Which Aluminator did you decide to go with, 8.7:1 or 9.8:1?

 

[Vapour Trails]

Just get a forged motor and continue to run 10-12 psi. Skip the heads and the cams. Realistically, 16-18 psi on the street isn't much faster than 10-12 psi, you just burn more tire. 10-12 psi is enough to need a cage at the track (11.50s). My observations have been that going from 450 whp to 550 whp rarely improves ETs that much in street/occasional strip cars (maybe a couple tenths, at most). There are plenty of guys that have my power beat by a lot, but are not faster in the real world.

This wet blanket message is brought to you by Chris.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Just get a forged motor and continue to run 10-12 psi. Skip the heads and the cams. Realistically, 16-18 psi on the street isn't much faster than 10-12 psi, you just burn more tire. 10-12 psi is enough to need a cage at the track (11.50s). My observations have been that going from 450 whp to 550 whp rarely improves ETs that much in street/occasional strip cars (maybe a couple tenths, at most). There are plenty of guys that have my power beat by a lot, but are not faster in the real world.

This wet blanket message is brought to you by Chris.

I understand you're trying to help, but really why would I spend $6000 to stay at my same power levels? I'll probably run 15 psi with cams and stock heads. If it doesn't get me 600 then oh well.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Which Aluminator did you decide to go with, 8.7:1 or 9.8:1?

I have not decided yet. Mike at Quarter Mile Mustang, who will be assembling my long block, recommended the higher compression since it will be forged, but Lito, who I will be going to for tuning, recommends the lower compression.

I also haven't decided on what I'm going to do as far as heads go.
I have a spare set of 05 f150 heads from a 5.4L 3v, from what I've seen they are the same, but are they exactly the same as ours? They will need checking over and possibly rebuilding.

 

[GerRod]

I have not decided yet. Mike at Quarter Mile Mustang, who will be assembling my long block, recommended the higher compression since it will be forged, but Lito, who I will be going to for tuning, recommends the lower compression.

I also haven't decided on what I'm going to do as far as heads go.
I have a spare set of 05 f150 heads from a 5.4L 3v, from what I've seen they are the same, but are they exactly the same as ours? They will need checking over and possibly rebuilding.

The heads are the same.

If your car is a daily driver, I'd go with the 9.8:1 short block since you are doing cams and possibly heads. You're going to lose low end torque. I know from experience with my Hot Rods.

I got my eyes on that 9.8:1 Aluminator and I'm just going to run it with my current setup and about 15 psi of boost.

 

[retfr8flyr]

When I did my build I had the same questions on what to do about the heads. I had one of the better head porters on the east coast tell me that unless you are going for the absolutely max in HP it isn't worth the cost.

He said our heads flow very well and just a little clean up and some work on the short turn radius would be the best bang for the buck. I was ready to go for the full job and he talked me out of it. I just had him do what he recommended. There are plenty of guys running big numbers with stock heads.


Earl

 

[lito]

I live in a country were we have shitty gas (cuasi 91), a built engine is a huge inversion that everybody wants to care and last forever.

With the low compression version you can almost pee in the tank after some drinks and run. Ford did the terminator and the GT500 with 8.5 for a reason.

I won't lie saying that higher compression would make the same power, it would be less but the difference is a lot smaller than you think. If this was an all out race car or an E85 I would say to run even a lot more than 9.8.

That is my take and recommendation, the higher compression can be tuned and run nicely too is not like we were trying to push 15psi on a 11:1 car but if this was my car and I was the one pouring that kind of money into it I would look to sacrifice a little woosh for long term reliability.