SoundGuyDave
This Space For Rent
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2007
- Posts
- 1,978
- Reaction score
- 29
Okay, here's an odd one...
I normally don't drive my Mustang that often, so it sits... and sits... and sits...
After a month of sitting, the battery is dead, no big deal. After cycling it a couple of times, I just up and replaced it with a new Motorcraft piece, and all looked good. Kept it on a 2A trickle-charge, and then took it out to head to the strip, and all hell broke loose.
Car fired fine, no issues. After a 2-minute warmup, I headed out for the strip, and part-way there, I noticed my gauges (aftermarket electrical) shut off, and at the same time, the ABS and traction control icons came up on the gauge cluster. A short while later, they turned off, but the brake light and PATS (car with padlock) icons came on, and the fuel and temp gauges shut off. A short while later, the car starts backfiring, surging, the trans kicks in and out of gear, so I pulled off the highway and shut down. On attempted restart, the starter just clicked. I didn't have a voltmeter handy, so no static voltage readings. Also, no "battery" and no check-engine lights. No codes, either.
I got towed back to my shop, and charged the car up again. Three days later, I took the car out again, and was able to notice that the same thing was happening, but this time, I kept a close eye on the electrical accessories (windows, radio, blower motor), and it APPEARS that there is a steadily falling voltage, based on window speed before and after turning on the headlights.
Normally, I would call this a bad alternator, but WTF is with no codes and no idiot light? I'm under the warranty period, and this would be the third stock alternator, so if I can get Ford to pony up for one, I would rather do that than pay cash, but I'm modded up enough to piss off my dealer... Anybody seen this before, or have a TSB to point to?
No big stereo, electrically, all I have is a set of gauges, electric water pump, HID headlights, and a timer circuit for the fan and water pump. I know the timer circuit is working properly, and the timer and gauges are on a 2A fuse, so no huge draw there.
Thoughts?
I normally don't drive my Mustang that often, so it sits... and sits... and sits...
After a month of sitting, the battery is dead, no big deal. After cycling it a couple of times, I just up and replaced it with a new Motorcraft piece, and all looked good. Kept it on a 2A trickle-charge, and then took it out to head to the strip, and all hell broke loose.
Car fired fine, no issues. After a 2-minute warmup, I headed out for the strip, and part-way there, I noticed my gauges (aftermarket electrical) shut off, and at the same time, the ABS and traction control icons came up on the gauge cluster. A short while later, they turned off, but the brake light and PATS (car with padlock) icons came on, and the fuel and temp gauges shut off. A short while later, the car starts backfiring, surging, the trans kicks in and out of gear, so I pulled off the highway and shut down. On attempted restart, the starter just clicked. I didn't have a voltmeter handy, so no static voltage readings. Also, no "battery" and no check-engine lights. No codes, either.
I got towed back to my shop, and charged the car up again. Three days later, I took the car out again, and was able to notice that the same thing was happening, but this time, I kept a close eye on the electrical accessories (windows, radio, blower motor), and it APPEARS that there is a steadily falling voltage, based on window speed before and after turning on the headlights.
Normally, I would call this a bad alternator, but WTF is with no codes and no idiot light? I'm under the warranty period, and this would be the third stock alternator, so if I can get Ford to pony up for one, I would rather do that than pay cash, but I'm modded up enough to piss off my dealer... Anybody seen this before, or have a TSB to point to?
No big stereo, electrically, all I have is a set of gauges, electric water pump, HID headlights, and a timer circuit for the fan and water pump. I know the timer circuit is working properly, and the timer and gauges are on a 2A fuse, so no huge draw there.
Thoughts?


I know it was a major PITA for you, but you have to admit that is a funny story.
