Planning a Ford Racing “Aluminator” Build with associated mods over the winter

Scott

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Intake Centerline Method – Degree a 3V Camshaft

To get ready, I pulled the timing chains off and removed the cams to insert a Trick Flow Specialties Solid Lash Adjuster on one of the intake valves for cylinder #1 and #6. Reinstalled the camshafts and timing components and although I did not rotate the crankshaft felt it would be prudent to go through the process of locating TDC again. Once TDC was located I inserted one of the modified Roller Followers to coincide with the cylinder # 1 TFS Solid Lash Adjuster. Next the Lash Adjuster Allen set screw was threaded in (to push the top portion of the Lash Adjuster away from the bottom portion) to achieve zero lash.

Based on the Comp Cam instructions I purchased their Crankshaft Socket part number 4798 because I liked that it provided the ability to adjust the degree wheel without the risk of moving the crankshaft. It worked fine in locating TDC, but once I had a roller follower installed and experienced the additional resistance of a valve spring it was evident that the socket inside diameter was too big and sloppy on the 3V crankshaft. This resulted in a couple of degrees of “jerk” when you changed the direction of the crankshaft rotation. I sent of a quick note to Comp Cams Tech Support and got a prompt answer – you have the wrong socket for the 3V you need part number 4793. Fortunately I was able to locate one locally overnight. The new socket is a perfect fit and eliminated the “jerk” when changing the direction of crankshaft rotation. Hopefully Comp Cams will correct their 3V Cam Install documentation very soon!

Comp Cam specifications are for a cams installed at a 102.0 intake center line.



In summary I went through the process detailed below for both cylinder # 1 and #6 and in both cases obtained the same results measuring an intake centerline of 103.25 degrees. The following pictures illustrate cylinder # 1

TFS Solid Lash Adjuster installed at cylinder #1 intake valve.



Modified Roller Follower Installed at cylinder #1 intake valve with the Freedom Racing Spring Compressor Tool





TFS Solid Lash Adjuster was set to zero lash using a “custom modified” (bent) 3/32” Allen Key to maneuver by the camshaft lobe.




A Dial Indicator Mount was securely fixed to a valve cover bolt hole at cylinder # 1 and the Dial Indicator was adjusted so that the tip of the indicator plunger/extension would contact the retainer of the intake valve. Not to introduce any geometric errors care was taken to ensure the plunger was parallel to the valve stem.



Crankshaft was rotated clockwise until the camshaft reached maximum intake lift. At maximum lift the Dial indicator begins to change direction. The Dial Indicator was set to zero at this point.



The crankshaft was slowly rotated counter clockwise until the dial indicator read .100”. Then the crankshaft was rotated clockwise again until the dial indicator read .050” before maximum lift. In my case the degree wheel reading was 69 degrees “A”.





Rotation of the crankshaft was continued clockwise past zero to .050” on the intake closing side of maximum lift. In my case the degree wheel reading was 137.5 degrees “B”.





“A” 69 and “B” 137.5 added together (69 + 137.5 = 206.5) and divided by 2 gives me the actual intake centerline “C” (206.5 / 2 = 103.25).
Since the TFS Modular Ford Adjustable Crank Gears I have are only adjustable in +/- increments of 2 degrees up to 8 degrees and my camshaft centerline measures out to 103.25 giving a 1.25 difference (103.25 – 102.0).

Your input would be appreciated on how to make a 1.25 centerline adjustment?
 

Scott

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Roller Followers Installed

24 Roller Followers installed, part number 3L3Z-6564-BA. Let’s just say after one develops their technique on the first twelve, the second twelve go in much quicker!

Right Hand Cylinder



Left Hand Cylinder

 

Scott

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Oil Filter Adapter Installed

Oil Filter Adapter part number 1L8Z-6881-AA, gasket part number F65Z-6840-A, Adapter bolts (4) part number N806156S437 and M-6731-FL820 Oil Filter. The ¼ brass nipple will be used to pressure prime the oil system. A little Loctite 567 Thread Sealant was used on the nipple. The Adapter Bolts were tightened to 25Nm.

 

Scott

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Crankshaft Position Trigger Wheel Installed

Crankshaft Position Trigger Wheel, part number XW1Z-12A227-AC installed with the teeth facing the front cover.

 

Scott

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Engine Pre-Lube

Pre-Lube components are detailed in post # 50.

Pressure Tank



The engine was pre-lubed with Royal Purple Engine Break-In Oil



Pre-Lube attached to the Oil Adapter, Oil Pressure Sender Port





Break-In Oil flowing to the LH Tensioner



Break-In Oil flowing to the RH Tensioner



Break-In Oil flowing to the LH Lash Adjusters



Break-In Oil flowing to the RH Lash Adjusters

 

Scott

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Front Cover Installed

Front Cover lip and Oil Seal inner lip where lubricated with oil and the front cover seal was pressed onto the cover. Part number for the seal is XW4Z-6700-AA.



Front Cover gaskets were installed. Timing Cover Gasket part numbers are 4R3Z-6020-BE, 4R3Z-6020-DB and 4R3Z-6020-EB.



RTV Ultra Black Gasket Maker was applied to the matching joints between the cylinder head and block on the RH bank.



RTV Ultra Black Gasket Maker was also applied to the matching joints between the cylinder head and block on the LH bank.



Front Cover was installed and the fifteen bolts tightened to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) in the shop manual sequence.

 

Scott

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Oil Pan Installed

RTV Ultra Black Gasket Maker was also applied to the matching joints between the Cylinder Block and the Front Cover and the Cylinder Block and the Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer Plate.





Moroso Oil Pan part number 20548 was installed with a new pan gasket part number 3L3Z-6710-AA and a Canton Racing Oil Pan Stud Kit part number 22-364. Pan was tightened in the sequence recommended in the shop manual in three stages: 1 – 2 Nm (18 in-lbs), 2 – 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) and tighten an additional 60 degrees.



A little Loctite 567 Thread Sealant was applied to the front and back ½” NPT fittings that I will not be using at this point.

 

Scott

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Camshaft Position Sensors, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Knock Sensor and Cylinder Head

Crankshaft Position Sensor part number 1W7Z-6C315-AA was installed with clean engine oil on the O-Ring and tightened to 89 in-lbs.



Right Hand Camshaft Position Sensor part number 1W7Z-6B288-AB was installed with clean engine oil on the O-Ring and tightened to 89 in-lbs.



Left Hand Camshaft Position Sensor part number 1W7Z-6B288-AB was installed with clean engine oil on the O-Ring and tightened to 89 in-lbs.



Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor part number 1L2Z-12A699-AA was installed and tightened to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).



Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor part number 9L8Z-6G004-C was installed and tightened to 89 in-lbs.

 

Scott

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Your build is moving right along! :thumb2:

Thanks for posting the detailed pics and part numbers. This will help me when I gather up parts for my B302 build.

Awesome Engine build thread! Ill be referencing this thread ALOT!

Thanks guys, my last engine build was 35+ years ago, so I am clearly having fun, not to mention going slow!
 

Scott

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Billet Idler Pulleys, Dipstick & Tube, Coolant Tube and Motor Mounts

Metco Motorsport Six-Rib accessory drive belt idler pulleys part number MIP2005 were installed. The provided Stainless Steel Allen Head Cap screws were tightened to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).



Dipstick Tube part number 4R3Z-6754-BA and Dipstick part number 4R3Z-6750-AA were installed. Clean engine oil was applied to the Dipstick Tube O-Ring. The Dipstick Tube bolt was tightened to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).



Coolant Tube part number 7R3Z-18B402-A (KT-94) was installed with two new Block O-Rings part number W704593-S100. The end of the tube and the O-Rings were lubricated with coolant and the fastener tightened to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).



Right Hand Motor Mount part number 7R33-6037-BA was installed and tightened to 41 ft-lbs (55 Nm).



Left Hand Motor Mount part number 7R33-6B033-BA was installed and tightened to 41 ft-lbs (55 Nm).

 

TurboX

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RTV Ultra Black Gasket Maker was also applied to the matching joints between the Cylinder Block and the Front Cover and the Cylinder Block and the Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer Plate.





Moroso Oil Pan part number 20548 was installed with a new pan gasket part number 3L3Z-6710-AA and a Canton Racing Oil Pan Stud Kit part number 22-364. Pan was tightened in the sequence recommended in the shop manual in three stages: 1 – 2 Nm (18 in-lbs), 2 – 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) and tighten an additional 60 degrees.



A little Loctite 567 Thread Sealant was applied to the front and back ½” NPT fittings that I will not be using at this point.



Scott, I didnt read the entire thread. Did you check the clearance between the oil pickup tube and pan ?
 
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