i want to buy a k-member for 13

[BMR Tech]

This is great.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

So is chrome moly stronger than mild steel as well as lighter? Who is going to answer?

 

[CPRsm]

You just didn't like the answers received as it makes you look more foolish.

I didn't like the answers because they were wrong. Guessing since you didn't correct or belittle Greg you must agree. Because we all know if you thought he was wrong you'd jump at the chance to make a fool of yourself. The shit you don't know could fill a stadium son. Chrome moly is not lighter than mild steel. Now let's see if danner has taught you some of those famous back tracking skills.
Chrome moly is stronger, but not lighter. They make it thinner and it maintains similar strength. That's why cages can be .083 CM but have to be .120. The CM cage will be lighter, but only because of the thinner material. Not material type. To get 8lbs lighter on a 25lb item it needs to be thinnned out by about 30%. That's pretty significant. So a 3/16 motor plate is now 1/8. And the .090 wall tubing is now .060. That's header thickness. (Thinner than a cage. Not for me, but run it if you want. Funny no one mentions to the public it's lighter because it's thinner, only because it's CM. advertising is a funny thing huh?) But as whiteline proved making it thinner just because it's chrome moly does not make it better or stronger. Diminishing returns. Plus tig and possible need for reheat treatment, etc.

 

[stretch]

didn't know k-member was such a touchy subject! lol

Beefcake gave me a good deal on a red BMR.

thanks

 

[BadPiggy]

So is chrome moly stronger than mild steel as well as lighter? Who is going to answer?

Chrome-Moly is not lighter.
Scroll up to Post 41, click the link, read about it.
Your answers are there.

It is stronger, not lighter.
Because it is stronger, you can use thinner gauge material.
The thinner gauge material will be lighter.

Very easy misconception here.

If you'll read that link, think about the overall picture how tedious & finicky Chrome-Moly is...you may want to give up the 4 pound savings and stick with DOM steel.

 

[wbt]

I didn't like the answers because they were wrong. Guessing since you didn't correct or belittle Greg you must agree. Because we all know if you thought he was wrong you'd jump at the chance to make a fool of yourself. The shit you don't know could fill a stadium son. Chrome moly is not lighter than mild steel. Now let's see if danner has taught you some of those famous back tracking skills.
Chrome moly is stronger, but not lighter. They make it thinner and it maintains similar strength. That's why cages can be .083 CM but have to be .120. The CM cage will be lighter, but only because of the thinner material. Not material type. To get 8lbs lighter on a 25lb item it needs to be thinnned out by about 30%. That's pretty significant. So a 3/16 motor plate is now 1/8. And the .090 wall tubing is now .060. That's header thickness. (Thinner than a cage. Not for me, but run it if you want. Funny no one mentions to the public it's lighter because it's thinner, only because it's CM. advertising is a funny thing huh?) But as whiteline proved making it thinner just because it's chrome moly does not make it better or stronger. Diminishing returns. Plus tig and possible need for reheat treatment, etc.

No, I provided the correct answer. You know why I run a chromoly roll-bar in my car? Because it is lighter than mild steel of the same design and acknowledge it is due to a thinner wall material. Not debating that. It's also more expensive.

The k-member is lighter because of the material used just as I stated.

 

[CPRsm]

You're not as good as back tracking. You didn't provide anything but regurgitate as usual. Run run chrome moly because you were told it was lighter and you didn't know it was thinner. The material does not make it lighter

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

The material does not make it lighter

If you can use thinner material at the same strength as its thicker counterpart and lose weight, isnt that a win win??? Im confused.

 

[gizmo5]

Once upon a time, before my current profession... My job title was Aeronautical Metals Technologist. I was in fact, a schooled metallurgist. Grain structure, heat range, all exotics and alloys, hardness, etc...


So far, I will validate everything CPRsm has said concerning CM and mild steel.

Now... I'm gonna do this -

 

[BadPiggy]

If you can use thinner material at the same strength as its thicker counterpart and lose weight, isnt that a win win??? Im confused.

It's a win-win.

Until you realize one Saturday night at the track the SOB that welded your K stayed drunk all weekend and when he assembled/welded it on Monday, he got the chrome-moly too hot and made it brittle so this is why the motor is halfway down the track...detached from your vehicle.

Yup, it can happen.

 

[BMR Tech]

Good info In here!

Looks as if some people learned some new things, which is always good.

 

[CPRsm]

If you can use thinner material at the same strength as its thicker counterpart and lose weight, isnt that a win win??? Im confused.

Yes, if it's done right. To assume it's CM and it's automatically better is a bad idea. IE a recent upper control arm that was made too thin and broke. In thoery the compression and tensile strength were probably similar. But if it's too thin to resist flexing,... Idk what type of strength you would call that honestly.

 

[striker 5]

I installed k-member and arms , LOVE it car rides great .
Thank's BMR .

 

[kdanner]

IE a recent upper control arm that was made too thin and broke

Yeah, had nothing to do with the end of the arm being too big and striking the rear axle housing before the suspension reached max compression, forcing it to bend. Wouldn't have bent if it was exactly the same shape but thicker, right? Your half truths/deception bore me.

 

[wbt]

You're not as good as back tracking. You didn't provide anything but regurgitate as usual. Run run chrome moly because you were told it was lighter and you didn't know it was thinner. The material does not make it lighter

Why would I backtrack when what I stated was correct? I did my research when I put a roll-bar in my car over 1 year ago. You're making ASSumptions.

Now what we have in this thread is a vendor who doesn't know their own product and a vendor who doesn't know what's on the market both supporting each other. Hmmmmm......

On the other hand we have a vendor which states their product is a 26lbs. weight savings over the stock k-member and is corroborated independently.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-11.html

I expect better.

 

[CPRsm]

Yeah, had nothing to do with the end of the arm being too big and striking the rear axle housing before the suspension reached max compression, forcing it to bend. Wouldn't have bent if it was exactly the same shape but thicker, right? Your half truths/deception bore me.

How bout you get your shit together and look again before you look like an even bigger fool. Not all of them made contact with the housing. The contact didn't help the problem but far from the sole cause. Let me know if you need help finding pics.

 

[Sharad]

A bearing splitter and a press will make getting the hydraulic bushings off the stock control arms a breeze. 5 min job.

Thanks for the tip. I'll attempt the install this week, weather permitting.

Although this link isn't a metallurgists report, I think Miller Welding would stand on its merit as a viable source.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resource...es-for-GTA-Welding-of-4130-Chrome-Moly-Tubing

Also, according to everything I've read thus far, Chrome-Moly is to be TIG welded ONLY. I'd be curious to know, does UPR weld their K's properly, using the TIG method? If so, how can they be cheaper than BMR when there's more manpower by TIG welding?

You're asking if we weld our K-members properly? We've been fabricating tubular chrome-moly suspension for 15 years. Of course we weld it properly. (Tig) We use American Made chrome-moly and our suspension is fabricated right here in South Florida. We set the price of our suspension at a level which allows us to make a modest profit without over charging our customers.

I'm not a metallurgist, so I won't try to get all sciencey. However, I've probably put 20-25k miles on my UPR Chrome-Moly k-member and it has worked flawlessly.

Using the same off-the-shelf UPR Products suspension that we sell our customers, Team UPR Racers have been winning races ever since our company was founded. At the NMRA/NMCA Superbowl this past weekend, Team UPR Racers won three classes, and one of our True Street racers ran two 7-second passes. The quality and performance of our products have been proven time after time, and we stand behind our products with a Lifetime Guarantee.

 

[CPRsm]

Why would I backtrack when what I stated was correct? I did my research when I put a roll-bar in my car over 1 year ago. You're making ASSumptions.

Sorry Jack, you made it clear you didn't know. As stated you would have jumps Greg's shit just for fun and tweedle dee would have been in close behind for clean up.

Now what we have in this thread is a vendor who doesn't know their own product and a vendor who doesn't know what's on the market both supporting each other. Hmmmmm......

On the other hand we have a vendor which states their product is a 26lbs. weight savings over the stock k-member and is corroborated independently.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-11.html

I expect better.

I'll make sure from now on to keep an accurate timeline of when companies knock off other companies work next time just for you. Oh wait, I don't care lol.
But we have the same two clowns that argue with anyone for any reason at the drop of the hat at it yet again. Twist the dumbest thing and try to run with it. One guy doesn't know the difference between Celsius and Fahrenheit. Then says the guy who data logged it some how digitally changed the read out because he can't correctly read the log. And the others best attempt at explaining pinion angle is to regurgitate what I already said. When his first attempt was to tell the op to google it. Nice job lol. I'd say I expect more also but I'd be lying.

I'm not a metallurgist, so I won't try to get all sciencey. However, I've probably put 20-25k miles on my UPR Chrome-Moly k-member and it has worked flawlessly.

How about just a plain ole straight answer? Is your kmember a copy of BMR?

 

[Greg Hazlett]

CPR-are you going to answer my questions?

You missed my point. Out of all those kmembers how many of them looked identical to BMR? I brought them up because you said there are only so many ways to do it. Yet they all did it different in all the years you listed they had parts. UPR's '13 kmember is a modifed copy of BMR's 05-10. So you have UPR and BMR which are all but identical for 05-10 but every company you mentioned has a different design except them. That was the point.

I understand now, thanks for clarifying.

Yup, looked right past it. When discussing the two companies, one copying the other is kind of a point that needs to be brought up. Some people like myself prefer not to buy the knock offs out of pure principle. Maybe that's something he might want to know. Maybe S&H will feel differently after finishing their own turbo kits to have China knock it off. I wonder if then your comments will still be the same "There are only so many ways to build...." And at that point I'll be arguing with the people that bought your knocked off product who say "I don't care who made it first, I just want cheaper." Then maybe you'll understand what's at stake a little better. Right now it's just side money for you guys. You don't depend on it.

I can understand that but I don't think UPR as ever denied the copying thing; let me ask you this-when you built your kit did you do it 100% from scratch without looking at anyone else's kits? If the answer is no then to a degree you copied someone's idea/theory/kit....if you did it all from scratch then disregard my comment. S&H is trying to get away from the On3 kits and do our own, we already recommend upgrading the the Comp turbo's vice the Chinese made ones but we leave that up to the customer; if they ask for advice/recommendation we give it to them but at the end of the day it is their choice/money. You are correct that we we do this on the side and not to put food on the table....perhaps if we did this for a living we would have a different perspective.


That's great. Yet everytime the subject comes up nobody from that camp will even deny it's a copy. Closest thing I've ever seen is "There's enough room for everybody." I never knocked the quality.

If they don't deny it then where is the issue? If you don't have an issue with UPR's quality then again, where is the issue?You are sounding like a certain ex vendor that used to be on here that cried like a baby over oil seperators.

More on that later

I will be interested to hear this and from BMR as well, I was under the impression the chrome aloy was stronger/lighter than mild steel but I have been wrong before and always ready to learn something as long as it is factual based vice opinion.

 

[HellsBells]

Hai guise, i just got a k-membar (i wunt say whose). itz my 1st mod. can u guise recommend me a good tuner for my k-mamber? plz thx.