BEC/Starting Issue

obxdude018

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Ok I have been having some issues with this and it has finally hit a tipping point of anger for me, sometimes when I go to start the car, it won't start sometimes it does, I actually had a good week going on where it started everytime for me. However, tonight it took me about 20 minutes of fiddling around to get it to start. Typically all that I have to do is shake/vibrate or lightly bang the BEC and it will fix it and the car will start. Sometimes I have to release the lower tabs and kinda push against the harness connections and it will start. I did have a burn up that I did replace, I circled it's location in the harness, I will get a picture of it tomorrow to show it better. I believe it is a green with solid yellow line(don't quote me on that). So I repaired the wire just the other day and it still continues to happen. Is it possible to test the BEC itself to see if there is any damage/short inside of it, I tried to see if I could tear it apart for a visual however it appears to be one solid piece. Also, included a thread that I talked about it a little.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105096

 
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obxdude018

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Ok the wire above is nothing to do with the starter that is actually for the fan. However, I think I found my problem, one of the connection points inside the BEC is kinda loose(#22 relay for the starter), it is the same issue I had earlier with the O2 sensors with fuse 47. Is there a way to open the BEC to spread those connections back tighter so it can make solid contact? However, I have a feeling the answer is no and that a new BEC is the fix.
 

V8 Vol

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I have the same fan issue you are/were having. If you find a place to order just the gray harness please let me know. That item is part of the very expensive headlight wiring harness......

I have a mechanic friend coming over Saturday to set up an external relay for the high speed fan. Perhaps that is your answer as well?
 

obxdude018

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My high speed fan works fine, it's the top part where the fuses and relays go down into, those connections inside the BEC are somewhat loose and cause a poor connection. So I'm curious if it's possible to open the BEC up and tighten those leads back up. Also, if you could get some photos of what he does with the fan relay. I may have to do that eventually as well. When I go to turn the key over it won't make any starting noises or clicks. So I get out and smack the top of the BEC, and try again and it will start. A pain in the ass, however one heck of theft deterrent
 

05moneypit

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Ok the wire above is nothing to do with the starter that is actually for the fan. However, I think I found my problem, one of the connection points inside the BEC is kinda loose(#22 relay for the starter), it is the same issue I had earlier with the O2 sensors with fuse 47. Is there a way to open the BEC to spread those connections back tighter so it can make solid contact? However, I have a feeling the answer is no and that a new BEC is the fix.

Pull the lock tab out of the side of the terminal block (it's the bluish colored thing on the side of the block) in your picture. This will allow you to pull the individual wires out and you can use a pair of pliers to tighten the grip on the female end of the spade terminal or replace the spade terminal if it is bad.

Lee
 

obxdude018

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Pull the lock tab out of the side of the terminal block (it's the bluish colored thing on the side of the block) in your picture. This will allow you to pull the individual wires out and you can use a pair of pliers to tighten the grip on the female end of the spade terminal or replace the spade terminal if it is bad.

Lee

Yea that I know about, however I am talking about the connection points on the top of the BEC where the fuses and relays connect in, there are small tabs in there and a few of them are loose and I would like to know if the BEC can be taken apart to fix those connections. It's the pin 30 connection on the starter relay, it doesn't make a good connection which is causing my no start issue.

 
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05moneypit

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OK. misunderstood your question. I had trouble with my starter relay also. I just took it out and put a slight twist in the relay pin with a pair of needle nose so it would make better connection.
 

obxdude018

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Here is something new, was going to work, the car shuts off and I restart it. Now it runs then shuts off after 5-10 seconds. Fix one thing and now something else
 

TexasBlownV8

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The BEC is molded and not really take-apartable.
Since it's the starter relay, your cheapest solution is to wire an external relay.
The trigger signal is fed in from one of the connectors, maybe the body connector. And power-out to the starter solenoid is from the relay output.

You could also use one of the convertible-top relay positions, if you move some wires and add some.

And of course, replacing the bec completely is a reasonable option.
 

obxdude018

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Got any ideas on this thing I am having with it shutting on and off, Im curious if the BEC is just fried or not. It happens right after fixing the starting issue.
 

05moneypit

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Fuel pump relay is right beside the starter relay....that would be my first guess since you were in the fuse block.
 

obxdude018

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Starts though, and I have a deleted pprv so I know the pump is sending fuel. Im the about ready to take a bat to the bec so I dont have to mess with it.
 

obxdude018

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Yea so here you go, I had to leave the car sit, car starts runs fine as soon as I turn the headlights on the engine cuts out. That was the only circuit I tried, but that is kinda strange. It also did have a bunch of codes earlier, one for a knock sensor, some c code I think it was like c3000 or something of that nature, cleared them they didn't show up again, now I am getting just P0443. I think the BEC might be toast or somewhere there is a ground f'n with me.
 
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obxdude018

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Started looking at the car today, I tried to get the car to shut off like it was doing earlier, nothing this time. Turned on everything the car wouldn't cut out for me. However the BEC seemed quite hot, just placing my hands on top of the fuses and relays and it just felt hotter than what it should?
 

BruceH

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Sometimes that condition is the clutch switch being out of alignment. Next time it happens try manually working the clutch switch or temporarily installing a jumper.
 

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