Sky Render
Stig's Retarded Cousin
OP, I think you need to put taller springs on. If you still want it a bit "low," go with Steeda Ultralites. But that's the most I'd drop the car without going to coil-overs and doing a bunch of other stuff too.
Best handling springs
- Thread starter Bad06stang
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Bad06stang
Member
I was out with my friends today and had somebody in the back seat. took a look at the bumpstop and it was literally touching the frame. I need difference springs.
Bad06stang
Member
Ordered 11+ koni yellows today from trackspec motorsports and will be trading my friend my extra sportline kit in the garage for his pro kit set. Thoughts on that set up? Im thinking it will be a smooth ride with the pro kit and still corner excellent with the right settings dialed in on my yellows and Eibach sway bars. Best thing of all is it wont be riding on the bumpstops!!
My first track day in this car is complete. What a great day. Only intermediate and advanced run groups with 3.5 hours of track time. Northeasttrackdays.com. Nice group.
The car was awesome. I spent the morning sessions getting to know the car and added speed in the afternoon sessions. The car was neutral handling except for one hairpin at turn three at NHMS that brought out some understeer. The understeer was easily dealt with by a bit more throttle to bring the rear end around. The Watts Link was superb as was the Koni Yellow and Steeda Boss 302 springs. The Fays2 watts link was a superb addition on this bumpy track. I was running -1.8 camber. Hot tire pressure was at 39 with the stock Pirelli PZero summer. Tire wear was uniform and the Pirellis were decent performers. Power oversteer was easy to control. After this one day I did not see a need to change the stock track pack sways.
By the last session of the day I had become very confident in the car and was able to finally able to overtake a competently driven 2014 Corvette Z51. He remarked that he tried to hang on but could not keep up. And his car had the super sticky Michelins.
Needless to say I am very pleased with the Mustang and the changes I made. I was a bit worried about my first track experience in a car this big and heavy but by the afternoon the cars size just disappeared. It was quite toss able and easy to manage even when I had it break loose more than I wanted. Looking forward to driving with the Nitto NT01 tires I ordered.
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Interestingly enough, I'm on Koni Yellows, set to full stiff, UPR Pro Series lowering springs (made by Eibach to the same spec as Pro Kit), and Eibach swaybars. So I daily drive on the same setup you're planning. It has a decent ride quality, it dead hooks on DRs (and that's saying a lot, with the ProCharger at 10lbs), and it corners well. The only complaint is that if I'm pushing it hard on a rough surface, lets say taking a corner and there's a seam in the pavement between the too roads, the back end will bottom out even with the bumpstops cut way down.
In my opinion, my suspension setup is ideal for the vast majority of people. For the relatively small number of people who need more than this, the only option is coilovers. I'm debating between Konis from Cortex or MCS from Vorshlag.
I dunno. Seems to me that if your suspension is bottoming when it shouldn't, then either the spring rate you've chosen is too low, or the amount of remaining suspension travel is insufficient, and that's pretty much the end of it.
This is one of the reasons (though the primary reason is ground clearance) I'm not inclined to lower my car very much -- about half an inch front and rear. Lowering the car about half an inch in the rear and no more also eliminates a few additional potential issues, such as incorrect pinion angle, but it also provides plenty of remaining available suspension travel, and that should give me a wider range of spring rates that I can choose from in the rear.
In reading this thread, I never have gotten a real sense of what the OP is truly after here...
This is one of the reasons (though the primary reason is ground clearance) I'm not inclined to lower my car very much -- about half an inch front and rear. Lowering the car about half an inch in the rear and no more also eliminates a few additional potential issues, such as incorrect pinion angle, but it also provides plenty of remaining available suspension travel, and that should give me a wider range of spring rates that I can choose from in the rear.
In reading this thread, I never have gotten a real sense of what the OP is truly after here...
Bad06stang
Member
So I got everything installed and every aspect how the car drives has improved greatly. One question though. I noticed the car has a touch of understeer to it going around fast corners. How should I tune the eibach sways and Konis to balance out the car better. Right now the front and rear bars are both on the middle setting and the konis front and back are about a turn and a half from firm.
Where is your understeer? Entry? Midcorner? Exit?
Bad06stang
Member
its mid corner. seems like the car turns in fine then the front starts to slide
Sky Render
Stig's Retarded Cousin
Tighten the rebound on your rear dampers. Or don't go into the corner so hot.
Probably entering too fast, on the front bumpstops, or not enough rear bar/spring
jayel579
Member
Bad06stang
Member
yeah I am probably being a noob and entering entering the corner too fast. I am going to try to stiffen up the rear abit tomorrow and see what happens. Ill just say though I cant get enough of driving this car with the new setup, I couldn't be happier with my suspension and brakes!
Last edited:
Sky Render
Stig's Retarded Cousin
I hope these corners you're going into too fast are on a closed course.
Yeah otherwise we're going to have bring the quote in my sig out of retirement
Renesis07
Senior Member
I have koni yellows (from an 05-09) with GT500 mounts and steeda ultra lites.... Don't have any issues you're describing. Cut the bumpstops down a pinch when I got the stuff installed.
FWIW.
FWIW.
Whiskey11
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You know, there are a number of us who have been down this path and really the only thing I can think of is why you would also want to go down this path when so many of us have documented prior? The lower the car gets, the more spring rate you will need to keep it off the bump stops. You are welcome to spend your money as you see fit but I think this cycle is destructive.
What I'm getting at is good coilovers do NOT kill ride quality nearly as bad as people make it out to be and are well worth the investment. No one is saying you have to get 1200lbs/in front springs and 600lbs/in rear springs. Just pick a decent amount of spring rate from the get go and avoid this "find the right lowering spring" nonsense. You'll probably even save money in the long run!
Just my thoughts.
You know, there are a number of us who have been down this path and really the only thing I can think of is why you would also want to go down this path when so many of us have documented prior? The lower the car gets, the more spring rate you will need to keep it off the bump stops. You are welcome to spend your money as you see fit but I think this cycle is destructive.
What I'm getting at is good coilovers do NOT kill ride quality nearly as bad as people make it out to be and are well worth the investment. No one is saying you have to get 1200lbs/in front springs and 600lbs/in rear springs. Just pick a decent amount of spring rate from the get go and avoid this "find the right lowering spring" nonsense. You'll probably even save money in the long run!
Just my thoughts.
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