New engine build

[05stroker]

Lol! I missed that but SO TRUE

Hahaha I have the video of my engine first start. It was also the first time I had done an engine first start, and in the context of running everywhere when the smoke starts, it's freaking hilarious.

Yea, a few oily hand prints on the headers, over the axle pipe or x pipe with some oil from the blown motor prior and your like, "WHAT THE FUCK DID I DO WRONG"!

 

[lito]

Engine has been assembled.

Forgot to comment about the beautiful valve covers Dysan powder coated for me.

Balancer bolt is at 85#, was scared to go further, we'll see.

 

[swflastang05]

Looks great! I see you kept the VCT on this one, are there limiters installed?

 

[eighty6gt]

Lito, if you have the dimensions of that bolt you can probably get one made.

Hope it sticks.

 

[lito]

I will be ready this weekend also... sounds like a busy time for all of us

Any of you plan have some tuning plans this weekend??? really??? for sure????

Had a close look at mine and it turns out that the Roush UDP is made by PowerBond, it even has the powerbond logo on it. It is Australian made so it is not some cheap Asian manufactured piece.

I'm planning on reusing mine for my forged shortblock build.

I can't say anything else than looks, but looks are really really good, way better than Steeda's.

Looks great! I see you kept the VCT on this one, are there limiters installed?

Yes, NA engine, VCT will see some action.

Lito, if you have the dimensions of that bolt you can probably get one made.

Hope it sticks.

Yes, screwed in my head.

M12x1.5, 92mm UHL, 30mm thread, 19mm head.

Writiing this here for future reference.

 

[05stroker]

Any of you plan have some tuning plans this weekend??? really??? for sure????

Not me, I will wait till the next weekend at midnight on Sunday.

 

[BruceH]

Looking good Manuel. I really like the 10 degree limiter thing you are doing. On or off. My testing with 127400 showed that up to 3k (3.5k? it's been awhile) 0 was just fine and after that 10 was the best choice.

I think you have plenty of torque on that bolt. Did you look up the SAE specs for it? Lubricate it with blue Loctite?

 

[crownaviation]

Any of you plan have some tuning plans this weekend??? really??? for sure????

Pick me pick me! Lol. Scared shitless and not afraid to admit it. Going to use large blower pulley combo that should only bring about 25psi till we can get rings broke in and dyno scheduled for you. Then we can "go plaid" Lol.

Last part was reference to spaceballs movie. Google "going plaid speed"

 

[Department Of Boost]

Balancer bolt is at 85#, was scared to go further, we'll see.

I've had a balancer stay on an amazingly long time with NO bolt in it. Lots of dyno runs, shifting at 7K when driving, blower running off a pulley bolted to the front of the balancer, etc. I only noticed there was a problem when the blower belt tried walking a tooth. Put a new bolt in and haven't had an issue since.

You should be fine

 

[eighty6gt]

Looking good Manuel. I really like the 10 degree limiter thing you are doing. On or off. My testing with 127400 showed that up to 3k (3.5k? it's been awhile) 0 was just fine and after that 10 was the best choice.

I think you have plenty of torque on that bolt. Did you look up the SAE specs for it? Lubricate it with blue Loctite?

Yeah, if it didn't go in dry that 85 should be a lot better.

Now I'm going nuts because I swear the "10 degree" limiters were a "10 degrees retarded" lock from livernois that allowed no phaser movement. The limiters that allow phaser movement allow 20 degrees. I just actually called livernois and this is what I've found, again.

 

[jodadejss06gt]

Pick me pick me! Lol. Scared shitless and not afraid to admit it. Going to use large blower pulley combo that should only bring about 25psi till we can get rings broke in and dyno scheduled for you. Then we can "go plaid" Lol.

Last part was reference to spaceballs movie. Google "going plaid speed"

what are your plans for breaking that in with such high boost?

Good luck guys! I hope for the best for all 3 of you.

 

[crownaviation]

what are your plans for breaking that in with such high boost?

Good luck guys! I hope for the best for all 3 of you.

Beat the piss out of it and show it who is boss

Lol. High idle for one heat cycle. Change oil/filter. Completely cool. Then 2k wot pull to 4k two or three. Hard decels. If logs look good then same but to 5000. Repeat a few times and it will be good to go. Can normally tell by temp gauge when she loosens up.

Change oil and avoid constant rpm for the first 300-500 miles.

Change oil/filter and get rid of break in oil. Will be using Joe Gibbs Asher broke in. To expensive to use their break in oil when I find the vr1 does good job

 

[toorbeenee]

Beat the piss out of it and show it who is boss

Lol. High idle for one heat cycle. Change oil/filter. Completely cool. Then 2k wot pull to 4k two or three. Hard decels. If logs look good then same but to 5000. Repeat a few times and it will be good to go. Can normally tell by temp gauge when she loosens up.

Change oil and avoid constant rpm for the first 300-500 miles.

Change oil/filter and get rid of break in oil. Will be using Joe Gibbs Asher broke in. To expensive to use their break in oil when I find the vr1 does good job

+1 on that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lito]

Not me, I will wait till the next weekend at midnight on Sunday.

Your midnight or my midnight?

Looking good Manuel. I really like the 10 degree limiter thing you are doing. On or off. My testing with 127400 showed that up to 3k (3.5k? it's been awhile) 0 was just fine and after that 10 was the best choice.

I think you have plenty of torque on that bolt. Did you look up the SAE specs for it? Lubricate it with blue Loctite?

I sincerely never used loctite on a balancer bolt, was thinking on blue but desisted because, will I've never done it or seen anyone do it. Just went in as ARP said but a little short on torque, will check after the engine if running and see.

Pick me pick me! Lol. Scared shitless and not afraid to admit it. Going to use large blower pulley combo that should only bring about 25psi till we can get rings broke in and dyno scheduled for you. Then we can "go plaid" Lol.

Last part was reference to spaceballs movie. Google "going plaid speed"

Thanks for the explanation on the "plaid", lol

I've had a balancer stay on an amazingly long time with NO bolt in it. Lots of dyno runs, shifting at 7K when driving, blower running off a pulley bolted to the front of the balancer, etc. I only noticed there was a problem when the blower belt tried walking a tooth. Put a new bolt in and haven't had an issue since.

You should be fine

Why you did this? If it's OK to ask.

Yeah, if it didn't go in dry that 85 should be a lot better.

Now I'm going nuts because I swear the "10 degree" limiters were a "10 degrees retarded" lock from livernois that allowed no phaser movement. The limiters that allow phaser movement allow 20 degrees. I just actually called livernois and this is what I've found, again.

Like this?

 

[one eyed willy]

What's the advantage to the -10 degrees lockout vs the regular lock out?

 

[eighty6gt]

Better top end power. For my street car I'm considering locking the cams out straight up.

 

[one eyed willy]

I have regular lock outs now, never seen the -10 before.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Why couldn't you just move the cam 10 degrees?

 

[lito]

What's the advantage to the -10 degrees lockout vs the regular lock out?

You put the cam in a better work range position.

Better top end power. For my street car I'm considering locking the cams out straight up.

For your blower, 10 degree retard locked will work nicely.

Why couldn't you just move the cam 10 degrees?

How can you do it? TFS are +/-8 max, if you want lock and retard, they are the cheapest and most efficient option.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Just jump the chain a tooth then go back with the TFS