Ran into a problem. Cash for a quick solution

[06silverbullet]

Can you start the car with the SJB in?

Depending on what you've done... You might be experiencing a PATS problem which will require a Ford IDS tool (or China equivalent) to reset PATS.

The hallmark of a PATS lock-out is that the engine will not start, but the car appears to have most of its electronic power.

he would have a rapid blinking red padlock in his cluster if that is the case.

 

[gtman]

he would have a rapid blinking red padlock in his cluster if that is the case.

Guys, I've got nothing. No key power, no obd port power. It seems the only thing I can notice with power is the windows going up that 1/4" when closing the doors and my CD player cycling when the negative battery cable gets reattached.
I spent my time after work looking for any draws from my battery using the multimeter and watching voltage and pulling fuses in the bec, couldn't find anything.
Idk if this will work with the sjb, but I may have my neighbor give me a readout as I pull them as he has the multimeter connected to the battery while keeping my door closed.

 

[408Stang]

Sounds like it's time to get another SJB from a junkyard and seek if that works.

 

[HG6283]

Yeah, it sounds like the SJB lost its software programming.


download reference document:
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrB...2008.pdf/RK=0/RS=36LbUBqXtn5ppXsT4ENG7HgZc9o-


.

 

[gtman]

Sounds like it's time to get another SJB from a junkyard and seek if that works.

If I end up having to get a new sjb I have to get a new one and I think its at least $100 to get programmed by ford service. Even the part number listed on the sjb has been updated so I have to make sure it can even be done with a new one for a very.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Still didn't measure the voltages at the SJB per what we discussed???

You're not looking for a 'current draw' at the battery, that's useless here unless you keep blowing a fuse.

 

[gtman]

Inside of sjb, I couldn't get lucky and find any defective or pushed out pins with my eyes, not sure if a fried sjb would even be noticeable to the eyes. Any worth to check these pins with a multimeter? And how to find pos and neg on which pins?
Sorry, I really need to know what I'm looking for.

Thanks

 

[Wild White Pony]

As mentioned check for voltage to power dist sjb.

 

[408Stang]

I went back and read your original post... You mentioned trying to find a ground for a gauge and kept mentioning the "passenger side fuse box"... I'm assuming you are talking about the one in the engine compartment. You also talked about the Tyco plug on the fuse box coming loose.... Again I assume we are still talking about inside the engine compartment.

So my question is when did we get inside the car to the SJB? I'm not real clear as to why the SJB is suspect.

If you were messing with the connections at the fuse box in the engine compartment and the connector came loose... I would be starting there. You might have to probe each wire just away from the plug and see if each wire that is supposed to be connected to a fuse is actually making contact with the wire.

 

[gtman]

I went back and read your original post... You mentioned trying to find a ground for a gauge and kept mentioning the "passenger side fuse box"... I'm assuming you are talking about the one in the engine compartment. You also talked about the Tyco plug on the fuse box coming loose.... Again I assume we are still talking about inside the engine compartment.

So my question is when did we get inside the car to the SJB? I'm not real clear as to why the SJB is suspect.

If you were messing with the connections at the fuse box in the engine compartment and the connector came loose... I would be starting there. You might have to probe each wire just away from the plug and see if each wire that is supposed to be connected to a fuse is actually making contact with the wire.

I originally suspected the sjb(in my words the pass side fusebox in the kick panel) due to my opening up the panel and the front connector coming off while the battery and car was still powered. There are two connectors on the front, the one that came loose was the wide one with the latch right above the fuse panel door, not the skinny one on the top left. So the Tyco latched switch that came off was from the sjb front.

I never attempted to get anything from the bec. I only went to the bec after the sjb looking for a problem. I only suspected the sjb die to other members opinions on here and a little online research. I do not have any burnt fuses on the sjb or bec. I have checked many times, I have also tested all the relays and clear top fuses/ those two black top fuses or circuits with the 1 on them in bec.
I opened up the bec and I could not see any signs of burns or anything going bad. I was still under the impression that something internally got pushed out when I pushed in the add a fuse, my faulty attempted ground fried something, or I ruined my sjb when that connector up front came off.


I attempted to ground my gauge to the bolt on the bottom right of the sjb and I tried tapping into the open fuse slot with a littlefuse add a fuse/circuit with a 5a minifuse.
I made the attempt to later put the key to acc, never turned on and I had that bad feeling in my chest that something went wrong. I never had any electrical issues before I botched this install. So this problem came that night from my mishap.

The night after the install I had power to everything and the only obvious problem was a heartbeat or ticking sound coming from my cluster. Then the next day cones and I have limited power to certain items, I try to diagnose the problem and two days later literally nothing works.

Thanks for the time guys, sorry for the lengthy reply above.

 

[408Stang]

The lengthy reply is necessary to understand this problem.

So to address issues one at a time:

1. Grounding to the bolt by the passenger side kick panel is perfectly fine and I don't suspect that is the problem.
2. Using the add a fuse is fine 's long as something didn't get bent or broke, and you didn't short it to ground somehow... So limited possibilities here.
3. The loose connector on the SJB is one of my prime suspects especially if the lever is broke. The lever pulls the connector down onto the pins. If it can't pull it down then you aren't making good connections. Make sure the lever is up when you put the connector on too or it won't go down all the way. However your progressive loss of power to certain items leads me to my next concern.
4. Are you absolutely sure that your battery is good. It almost seems like you have a bad battery. Pull it out and have it tested... It's free at any auto parts store. The ticking in your instrument cluster is a self check / reset process. This happens when the PCM is reprogrammed, and / or when the battery is dead / dying... But this would mean that it is really... Really... Really discharged.
5. Have you tried pulling any codes from the PCM? Might give you some clues.
6. Lastly, do you know what wire / circuit you tried to tap into with the add a fuse? This might lead us to your issue as well... For example if you tried to tap into the MSCAN bus for power you very well could have fried something.... I'm only suspicious of this due to the ticking / clicking in the instrument cluster... Which is hooked into the MSCAN for many signals from the PCM.
7. Did you smell any burning electrical? Did you hear any "pops" (which is usually a capacitor or chip). If so... Sniff around until you find what is burnt it has a very distinct smell.

I hope this helps.

 

[gtman]

The lengthy reply is necessary to understand this problem.

So to address issues one at a time:

1. Grounding to the bolt by the passenger side kick panel is perfectly fine and I don't suspect that is the problem.
2. Using the add a fuse is fine 's long as something didn't get bent or broke, and you didn't short it to ground somehow... So limited possibilities here.
3. The loose connector on the SJB is one of my prime suspects especially if the lever is broke. The lever pulls the connector down onto the pins. If it can't pull it down then you aren't making good connections. Make sure the lever is up when you put the connector on too or it won't go down all the way. However your progressive loss of power to certain items leads me to my next concern.
4. Are you absolutely sure that your battery is good. It almost seems like you have a bad battery. Pull it out and have it tested... It's free at any auto parts store. The ticking in your instrument cluster is a self check / reset process. This happens when the PCM is reprogrammed, and / or when the battery is dead / dying... But this would mean that it is really... Really... Really discharged.
5. Have you tried pulling any codes from the PCM? Might give you some clues.
6. Lastly, do you know what wire / circuit you tried to tap into with the add a fuse? This might lead us to your issue as well... For example if you tried to tap into the MSCAN bus for power you very well could have fried something.... I'm only suspicious of this due to the ticking / clicking in the instrument cluster... Which is hooked into the MSCAN for many signals from the PCM.
7. Did you smell any burning electrical? Did you hear any "pops" (which is usually a capacitor or chip). If so... Sniff around until you find what is burnt it has a very distinct smell.

I hope this helps.

Yes sir, battery was replaced 4-5 months ago. I completely charged the battery on two occasions after this problem and my multimeter shows a reading of near 12.4-12.5.

How could I pull codes from the pcm? I don't have any power at all anymore(other than windows going up when closing door and radio cycling after the neg. battery gets reconnected. The key does nothing in any position and my xcal 2 cannot get powered up by the obd. Ibelieve it was 9 or 13 that I tried the add a fuse, it was one of the open slots next to each other.
I never heard a pop or any burning smell, I also never moved factory wires around where one could become cut by accident. I did hear a sound when the front wide Tyco latch was released with battery on, almost like a disconnecting type of sound.

Thank you very much for your time and help.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

What I recommended was to plug the sjb back in, connect everything back, connect the battery, and turn the ignition key to 'on', and check voltage at all the fuses in the SJB, noting where there was and was not power. The min-fises have a little of the metal exposed on the top so you can hit it with a multimeter probe and check for voltage. With key-on, all the fuses should have voltage on them. (with key off, there are all put I think 3 fuses that will have power).
Knowing which fuses have and do not have power can help us recommend where to look further. Naturally, checking all power wires coming in for voltage would be a reasonable first or second place to look, too, and that is what I recommended first; but since that is harder to get to, checking the fuse-side of the sjb can be helpful as well, then use the wiring diagrams and check all the BEC power to the sjb, see if it is there.
The only way the SJB would be bad is if all the power is provided to the SJB and it still dod not work (and assuming all grounds are still connected, too, as mentioned by someone as well).

 

[408Stang]

No power to the OBD port is concerning.

 

[bcb06gt]

As mentioned check for voltage to power dist sjb.

Do me and TexasBlownV8 a favor, measure the voltage after the fuse in the BEC for the 4 fuses that power the SJB. Then, measure the voltage of the 4 wires at the SJB for the four fuses.

Also, can your recharge an Ipad or cell phone in the cigarette lighter that has only limited power remaining? I know this seem like a dumb request.

 

[gtman]

My Baby is alive!

I'm knocking on wood like a mf as I type this, but I now have complete power to all accessories and the car started right up.

I have no idea what happened and why it started now.
With neg battery off today I removed the bec,checked it again, but I still couldn't see a visual problem.

I then reinstalled my sjb and just left it sitting there standing up with all my connections in(I did not fit the top part which needs to go in at an angle or put the one center bottom bolt back in to hold it) as I was just trying to get my connections back in and test the fuses with the key in as Texasblownv8 mentioned.

I connected the negative cable and was cleaning my tools before putting them away and then I clicked the unlock on the key fob and I heard my locks click and interior light come on and then I gladly went straight to key power and my Baby came alive.

I had to walk away with a smile because I have no idea what changed and not one single part was replaced or problem found with my limited ability.

I'm not looking for anymore punishment so I guess I will be keeping my nylon battery shield off for the time being, along with the passenger kickpanel and door sill.


THANK YOU to everyone who helped me, pitched in an opinion, and the private messages of PDFs and explanations of what to look for. I could not have done this without the help of you guys.

The stress was kicking my ass for over a 2 weeks on this. I was truly ashamed that I was going to have to have a towtruck come get the car out of my driveway and take it to Ford at a rate of $130/hr just for labor, and in akk honesty, I had no faith that they would even be able to find the problem without just replacing parts after a day of just electrical testing.

Thank you S197 for helping me correct my huge failure.

Bless you guys.

 

[bcb06gt]

Great news!

 

[Glengemen]

Nice to se it's back.

 

[eighty6gt]

Was anything repaired?

 

[gtman]

Was anything repaired?

Not one thing, I couldn't even find what was the cause of the problem to begin with. I checked relays and fuses countless times and could not find any faulty ones. The bec was opened up and checked 3 times, sjb was taken out and inspected twice, and I even opened up the sjb to see of I could see anything visually wrong. I tested as many grounds as I could reach.

Idk truly.

I'm scared to even mess around anymore, last time I had a dyno tune lined up two days before this mess and I was just trying to install my wideband because I had free time.

For now, I just have my sjb sitting at an angle in the foot well without my kickpanel or door sill plate installed, also have my battery shield/cover off as well. Not looking to base down more problems yet.

Thanks s197.