Regarding arh 1 3/4 for low rpm power.

i am ryan

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It kinda sounds like a set of 3.73s or higher would solve your issues. At 600rwhp your issue will be putting the power down or translating it to the asphalt, and if being able to hammer it and subsequently get a few car lengths is what you're looking for, tires/suspension/gears will do that for you.
 

jolambright

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Just curious OP, have you ridden in or driven any kind of blown vehicle?

I have, but the driver never drove it at low rpm to acceleration, he downshifted to get to boost quicker like most people do. He had a paxton.

Regarding the rear gears, I was going to put in 3.55 already from 3.31 when going to redo it in a year around. I mean with the 91 performance bama tune it already has decent low rpm acceleration with the 1 peice dynotech aluminum driveshaft, I was just trying to get more out of that like most people do for how they drive with the mods they put on it.
 

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I have, but the driver never drove it at low rpm to acceleration, he downshifted to get to boost quicker like most people do. He had a paxton.

Regarding the rear gears, I was going to put in 3.55 already from 3.31 when going to redo it in a year around. I mean with the 91 performance bama tune it already has decent low rpm acceleration with the 1 peice dynotech aluminum driveshaft, I was just trying to get more out of that like most people do for how they drive with the mods they put on it.

With a PD blower you will want the 3.31's in there.
 

Pentalab

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The problem with centri blower's and any turbo setup is...... the boost rises aprx to the square of the rpm. IE: 8 psi @ 6 krpm.... 2 psi @3 krpm..... .5psi @ 1.5 krpm.
IMO, that's the last thing you want with any street / DD car. Any PD blower is the real answer for a street car, no need to downshift, just punch it and go.

Different car, but with my 2010 auto, 3.31 rear gear, roush m90 blower, JBA LT's, catted H, twin 62mm TB,+ VMP 94 tune and DSS-DS, I can sit at a red light, idling at 600 rpm.... manually shifted into 3rd gear..then punch it when the light turns green. Screech of rubber, and off we go... 0 to 100 mph...all in 3rd gear. On the hwy, in 5th gear (OD) it's 1500 rpm @ 50 mph. Put your foot into it, and it's up to 70 mph damn quick..and still in OD. Normal deal is to 1st shut off the OD, then it's 2 krpm @ 50 mph in 4th gear. Put your foot into it, and it's up to 100 mph quick like..and still in 4th gear...@ 4 krpm. Instead, mash the pedal, and it drops into 3rd gear (3 krpm @ 50 mph) , instant boost, and off you go to 100 mph super quick like (6 krpm @ 100 mph in 3rd gear). It's all effortless. (150 mph @ 6 krpm in 4th gear is simple stuff).

IMO, the Lt's on the 4.6L 3v eng was one mod that was blatantly obvious. The JBA Lt's I used are ceramic coated and only 1 5/8" primary's and 2.5" collector. They are longer than kooks, which enhances the low + mid range tq. The kooks, being shorter, enhance the upper rpm, like 3500-6500, so it's a tradeoff. For a street car, I wanted loads of low to mid range tq. I still have plenty of hp + tq at 6 krpm, where I have the shift points set at. The PD blower, 1 piece DS, LT's and 94 tune did the trick. Rear tires are just 285-40-18 Nitto NT-555's (26.97" tall) on a 10" wide rim. Other misc mods are an eaton tru-trac + WL-watts link.

IMO, a centri is like buying 1/2 a blower. I want instant boost....now. And that's what you get with any PD blower, even at idle, in any gear. I'd be pissed if I had to drop down a bunch of gears, just to get the boost up. Centri's make max boost at max rpm, well I want boost today, now, at any rpm, including idle. A centri + turbo is fine for the strip, where you dump the clutch at sky high rpm, then redline the shit outa every gear.

That's the whole point of any pd blower, you let the blower do the work. I can also feather the gas pedal, so the boost is 0-2 psi (foot into it a bit, but not mashed) and effortlessly pass the usual slow pokes on local streets...or the hwy. It doesn't break a sweat.
 
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Pentalab

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Wait, so if I put the psi to 5 then it would kick in at 1.5krpm? I've never heard of that before.

With a centri, you won't have any boost at 1.5 k rpm. With any PD blower you will have max boost @ 1.5 krpm..and well below 1.5 krpm too. Bam, instant boost... = instant tq.

Why mess with a shaker hood? All that ends up doing is re-routing the intake air into a huge loop. It just adds a bunch of unwanted length and tight bends. When the LT's got installed, I also added Steeda hd eng mounts at the same time. IF I had a shaker hood, it sure as hell wouldn't shake at all.
 

jolambright

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I am not getting it for performance, I am just getting it because I like the way it looks.

We all mod our cars to look the way we want them to, this one just happens to interfere if wanting to put a PD on it. I would rather have a centri with it than not having one with a PD. Which is why I was looking for other places to add low end power.
 

Department Of Boost

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I am not getting it for performance, I am just getting it because I like the way it looks.

We all mod our cars to look the way we want them to, this one just happens to interfere if wanting to put a PD on it. I would rather have a centri with it than not having one with a PD. Which is why I was looking for other places to add low end power.

Well, it looks like you have a choice to make. Low end grunt, or a shaker hood.
 

07 Boss

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Don't use a CDC shaker. Problem solved.

Go get a ride in a PD and centri car before you do anything. The difference is massive.

And no matter what you do I think LT headers are a waste. At least a waste considering what you want. My $.02.


Exactly, you are going to determine which kind of blower to go with based on the kind of faux intake you want to run? I mean you are being so concerned and precise in what you want, but let the non functioning hood scoop keep you from getting what you really need. Priceless.
 

i am ryan

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The choice for that is either a shaker hood or low end grunt from the supercharger. There are other ways to have more low end grunt, hence why I am asking about the headers here.

Why not just fab up the CDC shaker so that it just mounts to the underside of your hood but doesn't actually connect to anything. You can have your cake and eat it too that way. Also, the issue with achieving more low end grunt other ways is that the other ways are far less efficient. That's like saying "I need to get to work today, and was wondering what sneakers I should wear to push my car to the office?"
 

jolambright

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Why not just fab up the CDC shaker so that it just mounts to the underside of your hood but doesn't actually connect to anything. You can have your cake and eat it too that way. Also, the issue with achieving more low end grunt other ways is that the other ways are far less efficient. That's like saying "I need to get to work today, and was wondering what sneakers I should wear to push my car to the office?"

That is not a bad thought about the making it to where it just is connected to the hood instead. I wonder if all of that would fit with the TS on the engine and the shaker connected to the hood but barely hanging underneath on top of the TS.
Like that thinking outside of the box.

And yep 07 Boss, that's just how I want my car. Priceless indeed.
 

07 Boss

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And yep 07 Boss, that's just how I want my car. Priceless indeed.

I totally understand the want for the shaker and making your car priceless. I'm in the planning stages with a local shop on cutting a hole in my hood and mounting a Hilborne type scoop (functional) along with some 4" intake tubing to the TS. I've gotten a lot of mixed reactions to that idea but I'm going for that '70's pro street look. Where there is a will there is a way.
 

Unreal

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I disagree. Centri on my car is perfect. Tons of low end just blows tires off. The linear power of a centri makes it easier to drive and hook.

My car makes 500rwtq at 2k, and 600rwtq at 3k. More than enough low end. I don't need 800+ftlbs at 2-3k rpm.
 

jolambright

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I disagree. Centri on my car is perfect. Tons of low end just blows tires off. The linear power of a centri makes it easier to drive and hook.

My car makes 500rwtq at 2k, and 600rwtq at 3k. More than enough low end. I don't need 800+ftlbs at 2-3k rpm.

Sweet, that is exactly what I was wanting. which centri are you using, any certain tune was made to make the car run like that? also which headers are you running if any different and if they made much of a difference that you can tell.

If you make 600 at 3k what is the highest rwtg that you have and at what lvl. Was it also tested below 2k?
 

Department Of Boost

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I disagree. Centri on my car is perfect. Tons of low end just blows tires off. The linear power of a centri makes it easier to drive and hook.

My car makes 500rwtq at 2k, and 600rwtq at 3k. More than enough low end. I don't need 800+ftlbs at 2-3k rpm.

Sweet, that is exactly what I was wanting. which centri are you using, any certain tune was made to make the car run like that? also which headers are you running if any different and if they made much of a difference that you can tell.

If you make 600 at 3k what is the highest rwtg that you have and at what lvl. Was it also tested below 2k?

Apples and oranges.^^^^^^

Unreal - Come on man, using your car as an example of how his 550-600hp 302cu in Mustang will run is well.................... stupid.:greenchainsaw:

OP - the car he is talking about is a 1100hp 427cu in Corvette. He has low end torque because that is what happens when you are making 1100hp up top. He also has a huge displacement advantage, which will produce more torque.

I can tell you from experience driving centri Yote cars in the 550-600hp range that you will not see a noticeable seat of the pants improvement in power under 3750rpm. Hell, even the PD blowers are a little "soft" on the Yote when compared to the 3v.

You got your answer. And that answer is PD blower. It is the first, second and third best option to get to your goals.

-Headers will not improve you low end.

-A centri blower will hardly change your low end at all.

Those are the facts.
 

jolambright

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Boost have you ever driven in a stock (or centri with tune) 2011+ 5.0 and then swapped the exhaust to the arh 1 3/4 with catted H pipe before?

I am not doubting your knowledge of superchargers, I am wondering if you ever experienced the difference in the exhaust that I am curious about.
 
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Department Of Boost

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Boost have you ever driven in a stock (or centri with tune) 2011+ 5.0 and then swapped the exhaust to the arh 1 3/4 with catted H pipe before?

No. But I defy you to find anything that made more power (more than let's say 3-5, which you can't feel) under 3000prm's switching to big tube LT's.

LT's will in some cases increase midrange power if they are designed really well. But low end, no.
 
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