Palanza's 06 GT Teksid Build lets goo

palanza7

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Channel locks and determination. Once the clamp is moved back the hose will take some determination but it will come off. You might want to work something between the hose and what it's connecting to. If that fails you can always order a new hose from rockauto and cut the current one. It doesn't have to come to that though.

Haha I had a feeling determination was the answer here. Yeah I might swing by the autoparts store and get one of those hooked pullers for hoses.

Try to rotate it back and forth on the nipple with the channel locks until it breaks free, then you can work it off.

The way its oriented it looks like someone put it on from under the car so I think I'll shine a light on it tomorrow from underneath.

I managed to get the clamp off. But said fuck it to the hose since I was replacing with an 07+ hose and just cut it off the nipple

Yeah true, worse case I'll just nuke it lol. :flamingdevil:
 

palanza7

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Update: Well, I've managed to get most of the disassembly done. Stupid heater hose on the firewall is a major PITA, not about to spend 20$ on a tool for it so going to try and make something tomorrow to get it off. Bumper cover removed, time to get to the blower manifold baby!
 

Department Of Boost

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Update: Well, I've managed to get most of the disassembly done. Stupid heater hose on the firewall is a major PITA, not about to spend 20$ on a tool for it so going to try and make something tomorrow to get it off. Bumper cover removed, time to get to the blower manifold baby!

You can get it with two pics. You will need a third hand to pull though.
 

Wes06

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I managed to somehow get mine off by myself.

it was months ago so I cant remember how its connected or how I did it, but managed it with basic tools and my hands, didnt have to rent or make anything
 

palanza7

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So.. lol. So the heater hose, I eventually got pissed and just gave it a stern tug over the hose below it. In that process I slightly bent the aluminum line on top. I seriously doubt it has a full kink in it or anything so I'm not too worried. So now no more dealing with the push clips LOL. Just to spite me, after it was over and turned the correct way, I was moving it up and down a little and it popped right off. F M L lmfao

Ran into some snags - looks like my manifold got smashed in the corner in shipping, right where one of the intake green seals go. Nothing a little dremel and chisel can't fix though. After smoothing that over I promptly managed to snap off my engine block heat sensor in the manifold. Ridiculous, I barely torqued it, way under 70in lbs, it had to have been cracked already or something. So I've got a new one of those on order.

Decided to dive into the 8 rib pully swap. Job is easy if you have a good puller kit. Note: advance auto's puller is super terrible for the mustang engine. Spent about 2.5 hours getting the a/c, balancer and power steering off. Didn't actually get the power steering off, turns out there is a very specifically designed puller for that.

Much work still to do. Its supposed to be a super nice weekend, would be sweet to get it together and tuned by the end of friday but I'm pretty sure thats asking for a lot lol
Would have to go with a local tuner in that case, I don't think I could get a scanner and in touch with lito in time.

Oh well, tomorrows another day!

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palanza7

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Well made some gains but also had some setbacks. Snapped the cylinder heat sensor off in the manifold and had to get a new one. After acquiring a new power stearing pully, I was able to get the pully off no problem - except I quickly realized after taking it out that the bolt I screwed into the P/S shaft wasn't the correct size as it pushed itself about 3 threads into the shaft and bottomed out lollll

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Sooo I found out its an M8 thread, grabbed a tap and vice-grips and was able to get the bolt out/clean the threads up. Hopefully I can get a bolt on to put the new pully on.

I then discovered the hard way that not every gt500 blower is a direct fit to the DoB manifold. Looks like I'm going to have some grinding or bolt replacement to do (maybe both)

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But, engine bay instantly looks more awesome with this manifold sitting on it I'll tell ya that!

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palanza7

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Is that the TVS?

Correct!

So the build has been coming along. I've ran into little fitment issues here and there but I've worked through most of em. Going to go with a regular pully instead of a decoupler style on the alt, hope this isn't a recipe for disaster lol

Been running vac lines and going to be getting into the fuel lines later tomorrow. Most of the puller's I've tried are unable to get the stock TVS pully off the shaft, it must have bearing locker on it. Going to have to build my own custom puller that has a little better grip. If that doesn't work going to try warming up the pully with a heat gun in the process.

Only other big hurdle at the moment is the two idler pullies that mount to the block are way too far back out of line with the rest. So I've decided to custom order some double wide bearings to swap out of those (the 90mm grooved idler and the 72 above it) and that should push them out far enough.

Lol so my elbow didn't come with both tube fittings, only one. Instead of trying to source the larger one I decided to just drill/tap the hole and make my own fitting. Going to lowes tomorrow to get a 90 degree elbow.

Fun Fun

Ugh my alternator is so dirrrrrrrrtyyyyyy =/

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pics06gtstang

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very nice job buddy , it looks great so far !
i dam near broke my hand doing that lower cooling hose and
them fucked up clamps and i had the proper clamp tool from snap on . i had the clamp locked and when i picked it uo the fucker sprung open .
SHIT IT STILL HURTS 1 i replaced every one of them w/ S/S screw clamps .
 

palanza7

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very nice job buddy , it looks great so far !
i dam near broke my hand doing that lower cooling hose and
them fucked up clamps and i had the proper clamp tool from snap on . i had the clamp locked and when i picked it uo the fucker sprung open .
SHIT IT STILL HURTS 1 i replaced every one of them w/ S/S screw clamps .

funny you say this lol so today i was putting the radiator hoses back on and while im under the car squeezing the clamp for the last one under the engine, sure as shit it popped open, flung open my channel locks and smashed the ever loving jesus out of my ring finger. i cant BELIEVE how bad that hurt. bled everywhere, it hurt for like a half hour lol

so today got the tensioner built, radiator hoses all ran, mocked up the location for the gt500 HE and the water pump - tomorrow going to run the water lines.

started building the custom puller for the tvs pully remove. this thing is really stuck on that shaft so going to have to break out the big guns

PpnvDHW.jpg
 

palanza7

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Alright update time! Pulled my autolite h0 plugs - I remembered they needed gapp'd for boost. Well from what I read I decided on 30 for 16-17 lbs of boost. I didn't have a actual gapping tool so I decided to get creative and TBH this is prob the most accurate way you could ever gap a plug like this.

Oh and one of my plugs had some serious carbon buildup on the end for 600 miles on the new engine. Going to keep an eye on it.

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Also got all the radiator hoses in, managed to mount the gt500 HE after playing around with fitment for awhile. Worried that I only have the older gt500 pump but it'll have to do for now.

All thats left is to replace the pully on the blower, swap idler pully bearings, put the belt on and do the wiring/fuel pump.

Also picked up a full nitrious setup lol so I'll be putting that in, thinking a 100 shot on top of the blower will be a good time. Better money spent IMO than on a 600 dollar TB/300 dollar elbow.
 

skwerl

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Once you get everything set up, you can increase boost/airflow slightly by porting that elbow and the opening inlet on the blower. You just have to be very careful not to get metal shavings down into the rotor bearings. Justin (VMP) and I ported my TVS1900 on my Bullitt. I only mention that since it appears you have that nice drill press so you're obviously used to working with metal.
 

palanza7

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Once you get everything set up, you can increase boost/airflow slightly by porting that elbow and the opening inlet on the blower. You just have to be very careful not to get metal shavings down into the rotor bearings. Justin (VMP) and I ported my TVS1900 on my Bullitt. I only mention that since it appears you have that nice drill press so you're obviously used to working with metal.

oh very sweet! Yeah I didn't know if they were casting their own elbows or they were just porting stock ones in some way as there doesn't appear to be a ton of material to work with in the elbow.
 

skwerl

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Actually we didn't do much on the elbow. We used a 2013 GT500 TVS elbow on my TVS1900 and redrilled the mounting holes, then carved out the blower inlet to match. But any amount of restriction you can eliminate will help.
 

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