Interior floor boards & center console HOT

[CJ-]

Hey Guys, issue I'm having is once the car is warmed up, my interior floor boards and center console radiate so much f-ing heat!

Does anyone here have this problem and know where to look as far as stopping this from happening?

Aside from this being uncomfortable, it's also causing my clutch pedal to get real firm and requires a couple pumps of the clutch pedal to return to normal pressure again.

This all started after I replaced my radiator a few weeks ago... The old one had a crack on the plastic end tank.

The car runs fine in every possible way no leaks, and I'm assuming the cooling system is completely free of air bubbles since I followed the "turn heater on and drive around till you need no more coolant" & it doesn't overheat at all, EXCEPT for the hot floors, center console and clutch pedal getting firm after its warmed up completely.

 

[CJ-]

Well I've done some research on other Mustang Forums, so far Im reading lower Shift boot/rubber boot could be ripped or not installed completely and next is a remedy which is removing center console and installing Dynamat insulation on the interior trans tunnel.

Also, I bought my car with no lower radiator/engine Cover and curious if having that installed would help or make the heat worse...

 

[skwerl]

My first inclination would be to figure out why the transmission is getting hot enough to affect your clutch, rather than just insulating the heat from the floorboards. How long since you changed the transmission fluid? The TR3650 was originally spec'ed at 4 quarts but instructions were later revised to use 3.2 quarts. Current Tremec recommendations are Mobil1 ATF or Syncromesh. I liked how the Syncromesh worked in mine.

 

[stkjock]

Does the car have Lomg tube headers?

 

[CJ-]

My first inclination would be to figure out why the transmission is getting hot enough to affect your clutch, rather than just insulating the heat from the floorboards. How long since you changed the transmission fluid? The TR3650 was originally spec'ed at 4 quarts but instructions were later revised to use 3.2 quarts. Current Tremec recommendations are Mobil1 ATF or Syncromesh. I liked how the Syncromesh worked in mine.

Fluid replaced almost 2 months ago when I replaced the trans mount and Rear Trans seal. I used Mercon V, i forgot how much it took but i filled the trans until atf leaked out the fill hole. I dont remember if i bought 4 or 5 quarts but I did do remember i had one quart leftover.

If i remember correctly I bought this brand and type

Does the car have LoNg tube headers?

nope, stock manifolds (no signs of leaks, no broken bolts, no visible cracks, no ticking sounds during cold starts)

 

[skwerl]

Could the extra heat be coming from the cats?

 

[CJ-]

possible BUT my engine doesnt seem to be under powered and im not getting any CEL codes, infact no codes what so ever.

 

[ZmanM3]

My car does this but I have LT headers, and a T56 trans that I had to cut on the trams tunnel to make fit. Saleen makes a trans tunnel cover/heat shield for this that I still need to install. If you don't have the same mods though I think yours is heating up for a different reason. It has never affected my clutch peddle either.

 

[Timmbo]

Shit, you oughta ride around in a vert on a hot day. Makes for a nice case of swamp ass. Got a couple pics if you wanna see.

 

[skwerl]

Ugh!!! I didn't need to read that while eating lunch. Thanks for the mental image.

 

[CJ-]

Well my brake fluid is jet black so Im thinking the moister in the fluid is expanding and causing pressure to build in the clutch line. Im assuming this radiating heat thing is somewhat common since I found threads on it so maybe this heat is affecting my dirt old dot 3 fluid in my clutch line...

I went in to a 4.5 star rated shop I found on yelp to get my fluid "Flushed" but they only did a couple pumps at each caliper and topped off the fluid so I gotta find maybe a 5 star shop that understands what the term "Flush" means.

 

[07 Boss]

Fluid replaced almost 2 months ago when I replaced the trans mount and Rear Trans seal. I used Mercon V, i forgot how much it took but i filled the trans until atf leaked out the fill hole. I dont remember if i bought 4 or 5 quarts but I did do remember i had one quart leftover.

If i remember correctly I bought this brand and type




nope, stock manifolds (no signs of leaks, no broken bolts, no visible cracks, no ticking sounds during cold starts)

If you changed the fluid it would have taken more than 4-5 qts. I think the fluid capacity of our auto trans is like 3 gallons. And is that the proper procedure for filling the transmission? I went through another process of opening part of the drain bolt and waiting until it stopped pouring out while the engine was running. Bought a special little nozzle for attaching to the drain plug.

 

[skwerl]

If you changed the fluid it would have taken more than 4-5 qts. I think the fluid capacity of our auto trans is like 3 gallons. And is that the proper procedure for filling the transmission? I went through another process of opening part of the drain bolt and waiting until it stopped pouring out while the engine was running. Bought a special little nozzle for attaching to the drain plug.

It's a manual 5 speed TR3650, not an automatic. The manuals all use ATF for gear lube these days.

 

[CJ-]

If you changed the fluid it would have taken more than 4-5 qts. I think the fluid capacity of our auto trans is like 3 gallons. And is that the proper procedure for filling the transmission? I went through another process of opening part of the drain bolt and waiting until it stopped pouring out while the engine was running. Bought a special little nozzle for attaching to the drain plug.

My trans is manual

 

[07 Boss]

Oh, didn't know that. carry on.

 

[2005Redfire6]

Well my brake fluid is jet black so Im thinking the moister in the fluid is expanding and causing pressure to build in the clutch line. Im assuming this radiating heat thing is somewhat common since I found threads on it so maybe this heat is affecting my dirt old dot 3 fluid in my clutch line...

I went in to a 4.5 star rated shop I found on yelp to get my fluid "Flushed" but they only did a couple pumps at each caliper and topped off the fluid so I gotta find maybe a 5 star shop that understands what the term "Flush" means.

Or tell them to do it right lol

 

[Ken04]

I have 3 of these, 2 supercharged Roush and 1 N/A GT. They all get hotter than hell. The Stage 3 gets hot enough that the shifter gets balky, common problem with the Roush shifter I'm told. One of these days I'll pull out the consoles and install some dyna mat.

 

[702GT]

Dunno what you guys are talkin about. A/C - Floor/Vents, nice 'n icey.

 

[CJ-]

I just wanted to bump my old thread, Im still getting hot floorboards and firewall so my feet are getting all hot PLUS my clutch pedal gets harder to press after a 15 minute drive... the pedal goes back to normal if i pump it 3-5 times but itll get hard again if dont touch the pedal for a minute or 2.

 

[eighty6gt]

I have 3 of these, 2 supercharged Roush and 1 N/A GT. They all get hotter than hell. The Stage 3 gets hot enough that the shifter gets balky, common problem with the Roush shifter I'm told. One of these days I'll pull out the consoles and install some dyna mat.

I have a Roush shifter, and when the car is smoking I get that feeling as well. It's somewhat better since I lubed the ball with PTFE spray. I might try some graphite next. Whatever it is it will be a dry lube that doesn't attract dust and muck since this shifter isn't sealed in a meaningful way on the top, and from the bottom the rubber accordion boot has completely rotted away and is full of cracks .

I'm going to put a spherical bearing in there at some point, I have the dimensions and just need a machine shop to make me a couple of bushings. Won't cost much and should firm up the shifter and eliminate these issues, without spending another $500 on an MGW.