Biggest Bang for your Buck Performance Mods

[J B]

NX is a good brand. Nitrous kits are more or less universal though. The difference is in the solenoid brackets, and switches/buttons. The safety aspect is all in the tune and between your ears. I have sprayed a bottle's worth of 125 on my 4.6 with no issues. In a perfect world your car will take a 100 shot and probably more given that fuel quality and tune are spot on.


I don't know South Carolina but Pro Dyno is in Fort Mill. I know they do a lot of Fords.

There's also Carolina Speedworks but thats also a pretty long drive. I think they are in NC

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Before I go spouting off my opinion I want a few questions answered.

1.) Auto or manual?
2.) All out racecar or a streetable car you can have some fun with on a Friday night TT at the track and still take on a trip and drive further than 105 miles between fill ups?
3.) What's your budget?
4.) Nitrous - Can you stay out of the giggle gas except when you find yourself in a challenge situation, or are you like me and using entrance ramps on interstates as launch pads every chance you get? If the latter Nitrous may not be for you because the bottle may spend more time empty pr being filled than full. LOL!

I've easily exceeded your goal in my car as you can see in my signature. It still is capable of being driven to Florida and back comfortably as well while getting 25+ MPG on 93 octane and retaining AC/radio/PS/cruise/spare tire and the interior. On the other hand there are 10 second Mustangs that are N/A running extreme stall converters, super low gearing, fed E85 and weight reduced to the point of being more track cars than street. Each has its unique place and each owner has gone that route for a purpose.

No secrets, glad to share, just not going to waste the time giving an opinion without knowing how you want to go with the car. I will tell you this. If you want an all out trailer it to the track tight budget race car my way sure isn't for you.

 

[AndrewNagle]

The thing about Myrtle Beach is that all the speed shops around here are stuck on LS and there aren't any Ford specialists from what I have seen. So Idk if I could trust any tuning done around here

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Fastlane Motorsports near Raleigh 150 mile from Myrtle Beach

Pro-Dyno near Charlotte 170 miles from Myrtle Beach

I have used Pro-Dyno but currently using the guys at Fastlane. Will pick my car up soon and don't have an opinion yet, but went to them because of 3 good references and some frustration with Pro-Dyno

 

[J B]

1. Manual
2. Street Car / Weekend Warrior
3. Budget is kinda up in the air because its not like im getting it all over nighted lol imma get it one piece and a time like Johnny Cash
4. Yeah I like to get into it alot too

Plus I like the mpg youre getting too thats impressive

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you put a PD blower on it you won't need to pay for gears. Factor that in.

 

[J B]

If you put a PD blower on it you won't need to pay for gears. Factor that in.

I tried to pm you some more questions but it wont let me send messages yet.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Email is in the sig.

 

[J B]

Im on mobile.. cant see any sigs for some reason

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Department Of Boost]

[email protected]

 

[J B]

Thx

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Fastlane Motorsports near Raleigh 150 mile from Myrtle Beach

Pro-Dyno near Charlotte 170 miles from Myrtle Beach

I have used Pro-Dyno but currently using the guys at Fastlane. Will pick my car up soon and don't have an opinion yet, but went to them because of 3 good references and some frustration with Pro-Dyno

Lemme know how it goes!

 

[redfirepearlgt]

1. Manual
2. Street Car / Weekend Warrior
3. Budget is kinda up in the air because its not like im getting it all over nighted lol imma get it one piece and a time like Johnny Cash
4. Yeah I like to get into it alot too

Plus I like the mpg youre getting too thats impressive

On the currenrt 14 automatic with stock converter -
I am running a Roush 2.3L TVS and the Roush stops there. JLTCAI, VMP triple pass H.E, VMP 82mm pulley, VMP boost-a-pump, and VMP tuned to 93 octane. Suspension BMR LCA's, relo brackets, UCA (adjustable), adj. panhard, GT drag springs rear only, Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks. One piece aluminum DS from Axle Exchange, MT ET Street R series 305/45/17 DR's. Exhaust is Lethal Performance OR H pipe and GT500 mufflers. I have front Strange adjustable struts and BMR GT500 drag springs (not GT springs) waiting to go on as soon as it warms up out.

Ran the same power adder on my 13 manual shift with cats and not as much suspension work. Exedy mach 500 clutch setup, MGW shifter on that car with Roush springs all around.

Ran 10.82 best on the 14 and ran 11.49 on the 13 manual shifting gently with less attention to the suspension setup.

Both setups averaged 23-25 MPG on trips and they both saw 4 hour trips making this gas mileage on two lane highway driving. On the interstate running steady 70 mph either setup has run 25-26mpg.

To do it again I would go with the 2.3L VMP package from VMP performance. I was not familiar with VMP when I made my choice some years back. Now that I have I will never go elsewhere.

Hope this helps.

 

[Sky Render]

^^
That's a nice setup you've got. Only thing stopping me from putting a similar setup on mine is that it would then become completely worthless for autocross and road course.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

^^
That's a nice setup you've got. Only thing stopping me from putting a similar setup on mine is that it would then become completely worthless for autocross and road course.

I agree. Suspension wise I would have gone a different direction for cone killing. Lack of interest in that style of racing seriously. Further the MT-82 in the 13 I traded for the 14 A6 would have also sufficed for course racing, and I would still have that green wasabi car.

 

[J B]

On the currenrt 14 automatic with stock converter -
I am running a Roush 2.3L TVS and the Roush stops there. JLTCAI, VMP triple pass H.E, VMP 82mm pulley, VMP boost-a-pump, and VMP tuned to 93 octane. Suspension BMR LCA's, relo brackets, UCA (adjustable), adj. panhard, GT drag springs rear only, Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks. One piece aluminum DS from Axle Exchange, MT ET Street R series 305/45/17 DR's. Exhaust is Lethal Performance OR H pipe and GT500 mufflers. I have front Strange adjustable struts and BMR GT500 drag springs (not GT springs) waiting to go on as soon as it warms up out.

Ran the same power adder on my 13 manual shift with cats and not as much suspension work. Exedy mach 500 clutch setup, MGW shifter on that car with Roush springs all around.

Ran 10.82 best on the 14 and ran 11.49 on the 13 manual shifting gently with less attention to the suspension setup.

Both setups averaged 23-25 MPG on trips and they both saw 4 hour trips making this gas mileage on two lane highway driving. On the interstate running steady 70 mph either setup has run 25-26mpg.

To do it again I would go with the 2.3L VMP package from VMP performance. I was not familiar with VMP when I made my choice some years back. Now that I have I will never go elsewhere.

Hope this helps.

Ill look into it man thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[J B]

Its probably also a lack of road course tracks. There is one road course in SC and thats Carolina Motorsports park, but probably 25 1/8th mile drags scattered all over.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Dad]

The amount of bullshit in this post is staggering. Have you actually worked on a Ford made after 1971?

Putting an engine on the bottle gets you more bang for your buck. However you have to keep refilling the bottle so it isn't as cost effective over the long haul.
A good rear diff and gears is a one time investment that will not get you any HP, but can shave a couple tenths off your time slip.
So you would skip a good exhaust system on a car you are putting some form of boost on and just use the factory setup? Sorry, even if it only nets me 10 HP it's a good investment. Everything costs a high dollar nowadays even a good exhaust. Besides, a good exhaust is a one and done. Get what you need to allow for any future upgrades.
Ever see the damage done if you use a tad bit too much bottle and it heats the rings and closes the gap?
You can call BS all you want. You build yours your way, I will build mine my way. I am not trying to compete with anybody, just trying to add some experience to the conversation.

 

[Sky Render]

Putting an engine on the bottle gets you more bang for your buck. However you have to keep refilling the bottle so it isn't as cost effective over the long haul.
A good rear diff and gears is a one time investment that will not get you any HP, but can shave a couple tenths off your time slip.
So you would skip a good exhaust system on a car you are putting some form of boost on and just use the factory setup? Sorry, even if it only nets me 10 HP it's a good investment. Everything costs a high dollar nowadays even a good exhaust. Besides, a good exhaust is a one and done. Get what you need to allow for any future upgrades.
Ever see the damage done if you use a tad bit too much bottle and it heats the rings and closes the gap?
You can call BS all you want. You build yours your way, I will build mine my way. I am not trying to compete with anybody, just trying to add some experience to the conversation.

Experience? With what, carburetors?

You said start with the diff. No; the stock diff is fine at stock power levels unless you're corner carving or launching on slicks.

Brakes? Why? Stock brakes are sufficient unless, again, you're corner carving.

The stock exhaust on Coyotes is more than sufficient for even stupid power levels. A full exhaust (longtubes, catback, etc) gets you about 20-30 horsepower for four figures of money. I thought we were talking about "bang for the buck" mods here?

And then you said to tune the car last? What the fuck? You're supposed to tune the car first and then modify it as you add additional mods.

Sorry, but the stuff you're posting is bass ackwards from what everyone else on this forum knows.

 

[J B]

Basically what Im getting from here is its gonna cost alot to make 100 more hp n/a or you can take the same money and make 2x the horsepower FI

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[46addict]

^^That has been the case since the 4.6 2v days but the thing with FI is you have to limit boost until you build the internals. And any weaknesses with the suspension & tires will surface as you add power.

In regards to Dad's post, there is nothing wrong with the stock axles and differential. Ford stepped up to 31 spline axles in 2005 and it's harder to break them now. The diffs will also last until you launch it every weekend on wrinkle wall slicks.

 

[stkjock]

stock axles in my Shelby...