6R80 in my 05

jodadejss06gt

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The auto pedal is a little wider and slightly more left of the throttle pedal. You could leave the clutch pedal in the car but then you would have three pedals (one of which just flops around) in an automatic car. If you want to just remove the clutch pedal from your assembly, it doesn't just slide off of the brake pedal assembly.
When did Baumann tell you that? I received my replacement controller 2 weeks ago. I am told it has the most recent firmware.

The guy I spoke with mentioned to wait until I was ready for it just in case they made a change and it needed a new firmware update.
 

05stroker

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Some pics. Looks like you have to trim the console back to the cup holder. You also have to cut the lower portion of the console. The pic below was my first cut was made but I had to trim a little more. If you are using the 5.0 cooler lines, make sure that hose portion in the front does not make
contact with the belt. I ended up cutting the one that got in contact with the belt on the kids car to use on my car to go with my aftermarket cooling lines. Anyhow this is what I have for now.















 
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jodadejss06gt

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Thanks for the pictures. The other day when I was situating the trans cooler, I was trying to figure out where I wanted to run my lines. My return fuel system is already laying in the tray on the driver side. I'm either going to go inside the rail and run down that side or have to run down the passenger side and cross over. I'm using a Power By The Hour trans cooler mounting and then -8AN lines. I have about 23' of hose to make it happen.

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I've been looking for the auto brake pedal assembly and it appears that it has been discontinued. Can anyone confirm if the 11-14 part number works in place? DR3Z-2455-B
 
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05stroker

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How's the ground clearance with that deep pan?

I'm looking at adding one but have doubt's it'll survive under my car ..

It hangs below the LTs, if that tells you anything. I will see if I can get a picture this evening and a measurement.
 

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Thanks, that tells me I'll knock a hole it real quick ..

.

Its mainly at the rear, I was going to look at it more and see if there's any way I can raise the rear of the transmission up more. It seems to me that we would want the pan to be more or less level anyways.
 

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I'm going with the stock pan on mine since it already holds 12qt or so(got on amazon in a 12qt box btw). What way did you guys wire up the starter relay? Based on the directions it looks like I only need to do the neutral safety relay since my car is originally a manual?
 

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I'm going with the stock pan on mine since it already holds 12qt or so(got on amazon in a 12qt box btw). What way did you guys wire up the starter relay? Based on the directions it looks like I only need to do the neutral safety relay since my car is originally a manual?

I am going to sound like a broken record here.
Your signature makes me think that your car is a 2006, manual. If so, go to page 17 of the Quick 6 manual and follow the directions for "Quick 6 Neutral Safety Relay". Wire it that way. You need the relay.
As for your other question on the Tach adaptor thread:
The tach adaptor comes with good instructions. You need to splice into the wires in cavity D5 (circuit 1118) of connector C1035B of the BEC. The wires are red and easy to spot because (I believe) it is the only cavity of that connector to have two red wires in one connector. The red wire from the tach adaptor goes to the BEC side of the circuit. The red/green wire from the tach adaptor goes to the coil side of the circuit. I have no idea if that will work with your N2MB box.
http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-561X.pdf
 

jodadejss06gt

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Yes, my car is an 06 manual.
Yup, I know D5 because that is currently being occupied by the N2MB Wot Box.
Those 2 wires were cut and feed the wot box off of the connector side, then the wot box feeds the coil side of the two wires. I will remove the wotbox and connect the 9117 into those two wires for the source and then the output into the yellow 7.

Yea and that is what I figured with the neutral safety switch....each of those diagrams shows the same grey wire....figured it only fed one relay and not multiple but just wanted to confirm.
 

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Yes, my car is an 06 manual.
Yup, I know D5 because that is currently being occupied by the N2MB Wot Box.
Those 2 wires were cut and feed the wot box off of the connector side, then the wot box feeds the coil side of the two wires. I will remove the wotbox and connect the 9117 into those two wires for the source and then the output into the yellow 7.

Yea and that is what I figured with the neutral safety switch....each of those diagrams shows the same grey wire....figured it only fed one relay and not multiple but just wanted to confirm.

It's a shame that the N2MB and MSD 2-step don't generate a clean tach signal. It would save us a lot of work.
 

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It's a shame that the N2MB and MSD 2-step don't generate a clean tach signal. It would save us a lot of work.

Exactly, I mean i'm already tapped into the Coil power, I already have the TPS that the Quick 6 needs, and I think I even have the clutch. Did you already tap into power and ground Pins 9 and 15/16? I guess i can do an add a fuse in the kick panel box of passenger floor board.
 

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Exactly, I mean i'm already tapped into the Coil power, I already have the TPS that the Quick 6 needs, and I think I even have the clutch. Did you already tap into power and ground Pins 9 and 15/16? I guess i can do an add a fuse in the kick panel box of passenger floor board.
Like I said it post 374 "Red power wire - I spliced off of the power to the ABS module at the SJB. It has power in crank and run as required by Quick 6."
As for 15/16, I went right to the stud that hold the SJB.
 

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I thought I would share how I wired mine and my sons cars. First off YOU ARE 100% RESPONSIBLE IF YOU USE THIS INFORMATION. I do NOT have neutral safety enabled on these cars yet. It will start in gear.

All factory auto cars will need to have pins B9 and E10 on C1035A connected together as you no longer have a digital range sensor to make that connection on you trans harness. You will also need to ground pin 30 on 05’-06’ cars and pin 39 on 07’-10’ cars on connector C175T. If you are a stick car you can do this or connect your wires together at the clutch deactivation switch.

Here is how I wired my Quick 6 harness
PIN
1. Gray- Starter Relay to C1035A D12 LG/YE or C175B Pin 7 LG/YE
2. White- O/D Lamp to aftermarket light
3. Green- TPS Signal to C2040 pin 5 WH
4. Brown- O/D Switch to momentary or toggle switch
5. Purple- Table Select to toggle switch
6. LT Blue- Manutronic Down to shifter pin 10 GN
7. Yellow- Tach Input to C1035B pin C5 via a tach adapter
8. N/A
9. Red- 12v Power to SJB 12 in start and run via a piggy back fuse
10. Pink- Backup lights to C2280D pins 13 and 26 tie together
11. Orange- only needed on carb applications
12. Tan- Speedo out to C175T pin 3 DB/YE with supplied resistor and your tuner will need to change your OSS to 40 in your tune
13. N/A
14. DK Blue- Manutronic Up to shifter pin 9 BN
15. Black- to PCM ground
16. Black- to PCM ground
Shifter Pin out 13’-14’
13’/14’ to 05’/07’
PIN
1. BK/OG to Brake switch interlock to RD/BK
2. WH/BN switch solenoid keylock inhibit to YE/LG
3. N/A
4. Purple switch illumination to LB/RD
5. BK/YE Ground to BK
6. N/A
7. N/A
8. N/A
9. DB Select Shift up to DB from Quick 6
10. GN Select Shift Down to LB on Quick 6
11. GN/WH Signal RTN N/A
Good Luck!
 

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Billy I am assuming that you will just flip the switch to turn OD off when you are at the track? I'm trying to figure why else that would be needed. Hopefully since you know the setup on your kids car, you should have a better starting place for yours? I want some more videos of this I can't contain myself; i'm getting soo excited.

Anyone have a length measurement for the bolts used to bolt trans to engine. I'm thinking its a m10-1.5x80mm and 6 are needed. I get a different answer from every ford parts I call, so I'm going to call Steve today to try to get an idea.
 

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Billy I am assuming that you will just flip the switch to turn OD off when you are at the track? I'm trying to figure why else that would be needed. Hopefully since you know the setup on your kids car, you should have a better starting place for yours? I want some more videos of this I can't contain myself; i'm getting soo excited.

Anyone have a length measurement for the bolts used to bolt trans to engine. I'm thinking its a m10-1.5x80mm and 6 are needed. I get a different answer from every ford parts I call, so I'm going to call Steve today to try to get an idea.

The OD switch is just in case I need it as the option was there. I do always turn OD off at the track, but that was because I had to with the 4R70W. My car was acually harder then the kids due to all the extra wiring I had to do due to the old momentary switch for my TB, OD and line lock being on my old shifter. The new bolts are 80mm and we will get some videos on the back roads this weekend.
 

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Thanks! I confirmed with Steve and ordered some from McMaster. Last bits come from Tasca today and trans should be done any day now.
 
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