TexasBlownV8
Formerly TexasBlownV6
Not running yet, working on a lot of other stuff on the car. But I was thinking about you and the topic of this thread; hope you're doing better!
www.streetmusclemag.com
Trying to sort through a few issues on my car and my sons. They are both wired as mentioned above. Only difference between the two is his started out as a 2007 manual car and mine started out as a 2005 automatic. In my car I still do not have the lockout where you cannot start it in gear, but I do have my select shift working via the O/D toggle switch to engage. His car is wired the same as mine but I cannot get his select shift to work or his brake pedal interlock for the shifter to work. I have to manually disengage it in the shifter housing if I push the brake pedal, it will not release, Also, in the programming software for the quick six, his does not give me the option to select holding the overdrive button for two seconds to toggle on the select shift where mine does, and I have all the settings, the same. Anybody have any ideas?I thought I would share how I wired mine and my sons cars. First off YOU ARE 100% RESPONSIBLE IF YOU USE THIS INFORMATION. I do NOT have neutral safety enabled on these cars yet. It will start in gear.
All factory auto cars will need to have pins B9 and E10 on C1035A connected together as you no longer have a digital range sensor to make that connection on you trans harness. You will also need to ground pin 30 on 05’-06’ cars and pin 39 on 07’-10’ cars on connector C175T. If you are a stick car you can do this or connect your wires together at the clutch deactivation switch.
Here is how I wired my Quick 6 harness
PIN
1. Gray- Starter Relay to C1035A D12 LG/YE or C175B Pin 7 LG/YE
2. White- O/D Lamp to aftermarket light
3. Green- TPS Signal to C2040 pin 5 WH
4. Brown- O/D Switch to momentary or toggle switch
5. Purple- Table Select to toggle switch
6. LT Blue- Manutronic Down to shifter pin 10 GN
7. Yellow- Tach Input to C1035B pin C5 via a tach adapter
8. N/A
9. Red- 12v Power to SJB 12 in start and run via a piggy back fuse
10. Pink- Backup lights to C2280D pins 13 and 26 tie together
11. Orange- only needed on carb applications
12. Tan- Speedo out to C175T pin 3 DB/YE with supplied resistor and your tuner will need to change your OSS to 40 in your tune
13. N/A
14. DK Blue- Manutronic Up to shifter pin 9 BN
15. Black- to PCM ground
16. Black- to PCM ground
Shifter Pin out 13’-14’
13’/14’ to 05’/07’
PIN
1. BK/OG to Brake switch interlock to RD/BK
2. WH/BN switch solenoid keylock inhibit to YE/LG
3. N/A
4. Purple switch illumination to LB/RD
5. BK/YE Ground to BK
6. N/A
7. N/A
8. N/A
9. DB Select Shift up to DB from Quick 6
10. GN Select Shift Down to LB on Quick 6
11. GN/WH Signal RTN N/A
Good Luck!
The remote display mounts via a double-sided sticky pad, at least that's how I have mine mounted.Did anyone here beta test the new remote display?
![]()
US Shift Introduces Remote Display For Its Quick 4 Controller
US Shift's Quick 4 Gen2 transmission controller just got better. The Quick 4 is now available with a stand alone display.www.streetmusclemag.com
I would like to how it mounts.![]()
Quick 6 Clutch-to-Clutch Transmission Control with Remote Display
The Quick 6 controller allows the 6R80 Clutch-to-Clutch transmission to be implemented in a wide variety of vehicles, including ones not originally equipped with electronic control. It also allows customization of the transmission's behavior with an intuitive, user-friendly UI. The compact...www.usshift.com
I have my '05 neutral safety lockout wired in and the brake pedal tied to the shifter interlock (since mine was an automatic, it already had the little harness under the center console with the power interlock control, so just spliced the 6r80 shifter connector into using it and the brake-pedal release worked properly). Even though his is manual, if the harness is there, it should provide the voltage (or ground as appropriate). The '11-14 shifter interlock is the same as the 5r55s. It is possible that connection is just not completed because of being a manual, as that would probably go through the sjb for power. It's been awhile since I researched this.Trying to sort through a few issues on my car and my sons. They are both wired as mentioned above. Only difference between the two is his started out as a 2007 manual car and mine started out as a 2005 automatic. In my car I still do not have the lockout where you cannot start it in gear, but I do have my select shift working via the O/D toggle switch to engage. His car is wired the same as mine but I cannot get his select shift to work or his brake pedal interlock for the shifter to work. I have to manually disengage it in the shifter housing if I push the brake pedal, it will not release, Also, in the programming software for the quick six, his does not give me the option to select holding the overdrive button for two seconds to toggle on the select shift where mine does, and I have all the settings, the same. Anybody have any ideas?
I figured out the select shift issue. It’s because his was set up on a toggle switch for the flex shift or overdrive and mine is on a momentary switch and unless you’re on the momentary switch, it does not give you the option for the two second press of the overdrive button to engage select shift. I just need to set his up like mine on a momentary button for the overdrive on off instead of a toggle, but I still don’t know why the shifter is locked even with my foot on the brake and why both cars start in gear wired as I posted above.I have my '05 neutral safety lockout wired in and the brake pedal tied to the shifter interlock (since mine was an automatic, it already had the little harness under the center console with the power interlock control, so just spliced the 6r80 shifter connector into using it and the brake-pedal release worked properly). Even though his is manual, if the harness is there, it should provide the voltage (or ground as appropriate). The '11-14 shifter interlock is the same as the 5r55s. It is possible that connection is just not completed because of being a manual, as that would probably go through the sjb for power. It's been awhile since I researched this.
The select-shift option is a little baffling, since you're [likely] using the same software version for both. I haven't set up [in the coniguration] my select-shift yet, but have the buttons wired and ready to try.
OK, thank you I will dive back into it this weekend and see what I can figure out.Billy,
I wired a separate relay for neutral safety. triggered (grounded) from pin 1 of the controller: enables (grounds the relay coil) of the neutral safety relay; hot in start [red/blue from bec], through relay, white/pink power back to bec to starter relay'. The controller will ground pin 1 in park or neutral, allowing neutral safety to be wired in a manner tied in to manual-trans-like wiring, so pin 7 of c175t (wht/pnk) gets power from the bec during start.
I also wired in a relay for the backup lights.
Otherwise the wiring of the 16-pin connector I am using is pretty-much the same (except for preferences in o/d, select-shift, trans-brake, etc).
Duplicate

