6R80 in my 05

daviswarner192

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Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I'm running into a very strange issue now. With everything going on I haven't driven much since the swap, only a couple weeks going to the office. Since it's been sitting something must have happened... I was driving heading to the highway and felt some light shuddering. The car was shaking (kinda felt like when you're braking and a rotor is warped). The shuddering got worse on the highway literally shaking the dash (again, like a warped rotor but very intense). I got off the highway and pulled over. In park I sat there and gave it some gas and there was the same shuddering, put it in neutral and same thing. So that eliminates the brakes, suspension, driveshaft from making the vibrations. I'm a bit paranoid and expecting the worst, thinking it might be something with my converter, the vibrations change with RPM. The engine is very healthy and not making any weird noises, I also gave it an oil change today and it looked fine (also had Lito look over a log, checked out fine). I did a bolt check on pretty much everything. I have a 6 bolt crank, SFI hughes flexplate, circle d 3b 258mm converter, ARP flexplate and converter bolts, 6r80 from a 2wd 5.0 F150. Any ideas?
 

429244

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How many miles since the swap? It's hard to tell without feeling it first hand but my first thought is loose converter bolts, loose flywheel bolts, or a cracked flywheel (flexplate). If you are certain those are not an issue, remove the belt and check the harmonic balancer. I suppose it could be the converter but if you installed it right, I doubt it.
 

daviswarner192

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How many miles since the swap? It's hard to tell without feeling it first hand but my first thought is loose converter bolts, loose flywheel bolts, or a cracked flywheel (flexplate). If you are certain those are not an issue, remove the belt and check the harmonic balancer. I suppose it could be the converter but if you installed it right, I doubt it.

I've probably put on 300-500 miles on this swap. I did a bolt check on the converter bolts today, they're still tight. I put loctite on all the bolts I installed during the swap. I'll check the balancer but the belt looks fine. Also checked my motor mounts today, they're all tight as well. Hopefully I won't have to remove the trans but it's looking like it could be some going on there.
 

MrBhp

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I've probably put on 300-500 miles on this swap. I did a bolt check on the converter bolts today, they're still tight. I put loctite on all the bolts I installed during the swap. I'll check the balancer but the belt looks fine. Also checked my motor mounts today, they're all tight as well. Hopefully I won't have to remove the trans but it's looking like it could be some going on there.
That's exactly what it feels like when you lose an ignition coil. I have had several Fords come in with "definite" transmission problems. Turns out it was just a bad coil causing bad shuddering, usually worse the higher the gear your in.
 

429244

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That's exactly what it feels like when you lose an ignition coil. I have had several Fords come in with "definite" transmission problems. Turns out it was just a bad coil causing bad shuddering, usually worse the higher the gear your in.

MrBhp has a good point. Maybe it's just a misfire. Again, it's hard to tell without first hand experience. I would think you would have a lit check engine light. If you have a scan tool, look for misfire counts going up when you feel the shudder.
 

daviswarner192

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That's exactly what it feels like when you lose an ignition coil. I have had several Fords come in with "definite" transmission problems. Turns out it was just a bad coil causing bad shuddering, usually worse the higher the gear your in.

Man I was really hoping this was it. It even made sense if this was the problem. I installed a hood vent in February and living in the PNW we get lots of rains. My car was having a misfire a week or two ago, water had been sitting on the coil boots and some had leaked into the plug hole. Got it all cleaned up and the noticeable misfire was gone. I had 8 spare coils, swapped them this morning. Still have the shuddering...
 

MrBhp

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Man I was really hoping this was it. It even made sense if this was the problem. I installed a hood vent in February and living in the PNW we get lots of rains. My car was having a misfire a week or two ago, water had been sitting on the coil boots and some had leaked into the plug hole. Got it all cleaned up and the noticeable misfire was gone. I had 8 spare coils, swapped them this morning. Still have the shuddering...
Dang, that sucks. No codes or CEL? It would be nice if you could run a load test on the engine. Just to make sure there's not a bad plug, wire, connector, injector, etc. But, if you had one of those issues you should be getting a code after several start run cycles. Oh well, I was hoping you would have an easy fix.
 

daviswarner192

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Dang, that sucks. No codes or CEL? It would be nice if you could run a load test on the engine. Just to make sure there's not a bad plug, wire, connector, injector, etc. But, if you had one of those issues you should be getting a code after several start run cycles. Oh well, I was hoping you would have an easy fix.

Yeah no codes, I ran my blue driver scanner and checked all modules even. While the car was running I unplugged each coil and injector 1 at a time to listen for any difference. All of them appeared to be working fine. I'm going to look into other avenues, I'm pretty confident its not the trans. It's too much a coincidence this started happening after the car had been sitting for a several weeks. It moves just fine, just terrible shuddering and shaking. I'm going to check the MAF, throttle body, vacuum lines etc to see whats up.
 

daviswarner192

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Well for anyone still interested in my bs, I’ve sorted things a bit. I’ve determined it isn’t ignition. Tested coils, replaced my plugs, tested the harness. No codes, Lito says datalog is fine etc. several weeks ago looking into my issue I read about lubegard instant converter shutter fix, it was cheap so I bought one as a last resort. After ignition was a dead end I decided to try it, no harm if nothing good comes from it. To my surprise it helped immediately, no shaking in Park. Driving around there is almost no shaking/shuddering at all. I went to oreilys and picked up a second tube and it improved it more. It’s not 100% but much better. This is good new and bad news, sounds like there is a bigger issue at large, possibly bad converter or something with the tune? What do you all think?
 

Joseph Jones

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I thought I would share how I wired mine and my sons cars. First off YOU ARE 100% RESPONSIBLE IF YOU USE THIS INFORMATION. I do NOT have neutral safety enabled on these cars yet. It will start in gear.

All factory auto cars will need to have pins B9 and E10 on C1035A connected together as you no longer have a digital range sensor to make that connection on you trans harness. You will also need to ground pin 30 on 05’-06’ cars and pin 39 on 07’-10’ cars on connector C175T. If you are a stick car you can do this or connect your wires together at the clutch deactivation switch.

Here is how I wired my Quick 6 harness
PIN
1. Gray- Starter Relay to C1035A D12 LG/YE or C175B Pin 7 LG/YE
2. White- O/D Lamp to aftermarket light
3. Green- TPS Signal to C2040 pin 5 WH
4. Brown- O/D Switch to momentary or toggle switch
5. Purple- Table Select to toggle switch
6. LT Blue- Manutronic Down to shifter pin 10 GN
7. Yellow- Tach Input to C1035B pin C5 via a tach adapter
8. N/A
9. Red- 12v Power to SJB 12 in start and run via a piggy back fuse
10. Pink- Backup lights to C2280D pins 13 and 26 tie together
11. Orange- only needed on carb applications
12. Tan- Speedo out to C175T pin 3 DB/YE with supplied resistor and your tuner will need to change your OSS to 40 in your tune
13. N/A
14. DK Blue- Manutronic Up to shifter pin 9 BN
15. Black- to PCM ground
16. Black- to PCM ground
Shifter Pin out 13’-14’
13’/14’ to 05’/07’
PIN
1. BK/OG to Brake switch interlock to RD/BK
2. WH/BN switch solenoid keylock inhibit to YE/LG
3. N/A
4. Purple switch illumination to LB/RD
5. BK/YE Ground to BK
6. N/A
7. N/A
8. N/A
9. DB Select Shift up to DB from Quick 6
10. GN Select Shift Down to LB on Quick 6
11. GN/WH Signal RTN N/A
Good Luck!

Would you happen to have something that identifies which connector is which?

TIA

JJ
 

phils95cobra

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This is a very long and old thread, but I would like to hijack it a bit and ask..

For those who have done the swap to the 6R80, I am mostly interested in the manual to 6r80 conversions. I have found a wealth of info on youtube from a 5r55s to 6r80 conversion, but not so much on the manual to 6r80. I mainly am wondering about the gas pedal assembly. Do I need one from an auto? Thank you
 

IssaStang

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I don't think it will happen until someone makes a stand alone electronic controller for it.


Earl
I know this thread has been going on for a while but I just blew my 5R55 but i can get a 6r80 for 500$. What else would I need to make it work on my 2005 mustang GT?
 

BMSperformance

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Hey guys, I've gone through this killer thread and its been a huge help!! I have a near 100% completed swap on an 05 GT factory auto car,(running and driving on my dyno), but I'm held up on the speedo output and manutronic settings for 13/14 select shift shifter. hoping you can help?!!
1-Which speedometer output mode do I need to use in shiftware settings to get car speedo to function?
2- What settings do you use to get shifter select buttons functioning? I tried setting up the shift pattern to be PRNDM.
Thanks in advance!!!
 

429244

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upload_2020-12-15_22-8-10.png

upload_2020-12-15_22-9-19.png

I am still using a Gen1 Quick 6. I don't know if this applies to Gen2.
To answer question 1:
I have 3.31 rear gears and my engine tune is not adjusted for the 6r80 so I need to use the speedometer Pulse Ratio option. Don't forget to install the capacitor.
 

slowish_3v

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I had the tuner set the tune file to 40 but no way I know to confirm it. We were wiring the speedometer output to the blue yellow wire at the PCM, I forget which pin, but I moved it straight to the pigtail that plugged into the original transmission to avoid any errors
Hey im so sorry im so late i already did the whole swap only working on a couple of hiccups i have been back and forth on the tread but it’s soo much i was wondering if you remembered what you set the output wire signal to be to that blue and yellow wire can have an accurate reading on the speedometer
 

slowish_3v

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View attachment 75569

View attachment 75570

I am still using a Gen1 Quick 6. I don't know if this applies to Gen2.
To answer question 1:
I have 3.31 rear gears and my engine tune is not adjusted for the 6r80 so I need to use the speedometer Pulse Ratio option. Don't forget to install the capacitor.
Oh snap here is the info i need, what capacitor are talking about and you have the QS6 speed output hooked to the yellow andblue wire at the speed sensor right, if manual trans?
 

DETROIT

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Question regarding a few parts. Are the 13/14 shifter / linkage the same (v6/v8). Also the same question for the 11+ trans cooler and lines?
 

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