6R80 in my 05

TexasBlownV8

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Not running yet, working on a lot of other stuff on the car. But I was thinking about you and the topic of this thread; hope you're doing better!
 

429244

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Did anyone here beta test the new remote display?
I would like to how it mounts.
 

05stroker

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I thought I would share how I wired mine and my sons cars. First off YOU ARE 100% RESPONSIBLE IF YOU USE THIS INFORMATION. I do NOT have neutral safety enabled on these cars yet. It will start in gear.

All factory auto cars will need to have pins B9 and E10 on C1035A connected together as you no longer have a digital range sensor to make that connection on you trans harness. You will also need to ground pin 30 on 05’-06’ cars and pin 39 on 07’-10’ cars on connector C175T. If you are a stick car you can do this or connect your wires together at the clutch deactivation switch.

Here is how I wired my Quick 6 harness
PIN
1. Gray- Starter Relay to C1035A D12 LG/YE or C175B Pin 7 LG/YE
2. White- O/D Lamp to aftermarket light
3. Green- TPS Signal to C2040 pin 5 WH
4. Brown- O/D Switch to momentary or toggle switch
5. Purple- Table Select to toggle switch
6. LT Blue- Manutronic Down to shifter pin 10 GN
7. Yellow- Tach Input to C1035B pin C5 via a tach adapter
8. N/A
9. Red- 12v Power to SJB 12 in start and run via a piggy back fuse
10. Pink- Backup lights to C2280D pins 13 and 26 tie together
11. Orange- only needed on carb applications
12. Tan- Speedo out to C175T pin 3 DB/YE with supplied resistor and your tuner will need to change your OSS to 40 in your tune
13. N/A
14. DK Blue- Manutronic Up to shifter pin 9 BN
15. Black- to PCM ground
16. Black- to PCM ground
Shifter Pin out 13’-14’
13’/14’ to 05’/07’
PIN
1. BK/OG to Brake switch interlock to RD/BK
2. WH/BN switch solenoid keylock inhibit to YE/LG
3. N/A
4. Purple switch illumination to LB/RD
5. BK/YE Ground to BK
6. N/A
7. N/A
8. N/A
9. DB Select Shift up to DB from Quick 6
10. GN Select Shift Down to LB on Quick 6
11. GN/WH Signal RTN N/A
Good Luck!
Trying to sort through a few issues on my car and my sons. They are both wired as mentioned above. Only difference between the two is his started out as a 2007 manual car and mine started out as a 2005 automatic. In my car I still do not have the lockout where you cannot start it in gear, but I do have my select shift working via the O/D toggle switch to engage. His car is wired the same as mine but I cannot get his select shift to work or his brake pedal interlock for the shifter to work. I have to manually disengage it in the shifter housing if I push the brake pedal, it will not release, Also, in the programming software for the quick six, his does not give me the option to select holding the overdrive button for two seconds to toggle on the select shift where mine does, and I have all the settings, the same. Anybody have any ideas?
 

TexasBlownV8

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Did anyone here beta test the new remote display?
I would like to how it mounts.
The remote display mounts via a double-sided sticky pad, at least that's how I have mine mounted.
And, I really like the remote display option! You can do everything from the little unit, very nice!
I have mine mounted between the center a/c vents, and the small section of exposed wire running down and underneath, to the controller that is secured to the passenger-side of the lower dash frame, with a usb cable running out into the glove box for connecting a laptop to.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Trying to sort through a few issues on my car and my sons. They are both wired as mentioned above. Only difference between the two is his started out as a 2007 manual car and mine started out as a 2005 automatic. In my car I still do not have the lockout where you cannot start it in gear, but I do have my select shift working via the O/D toggle switch to engage. His car is wired the same as mine but I cannot get his select shift to work or his brake pedal interlock for the shifter to work. I have to manually disengage it in the shifter housing if I push the brake pedal, it will not release, Also, in the programming software for the quick six, his does not give me the option to select holding the overdrive button for two seconds to toggle on the select shift where mine does, and I have all the settings, the same. Anybody have any ideas?
I have my '05 neutral safety lockout wired in and the brake pedal tied to the shifter interlock (since mine was an automatic, it already had the little harness under the center console with the power interlock control, so just spliced the 6r80 shifter connector into using it and the brake-pedal release worked properly). Even though his is manual, if the harness is there, it should provide the voltage (or ground as appropriate). The '11-14 shifter interlock is the same as the 5r55s. It is possible that connection is just not completed because of being a manual, as that would probably go through the sjb for power. It's been awhile since I researched this.
The select-shift option is a little baffling, since you're [likely] using the same software version for both. I haven't set up [in the coniguration] my select-shift yet, but have the buttons wired and ready to try.
 

05stroker

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I have my '05 neutral safety lockout wired in and the brake pedal tied to the shifter interlock (since mine was an automatic, it already had the little harness under the center console with the power interlock control, so just spliced the 6r80 shifter connector into using it and the brake-pedal release worked properly). Even though his is manual, if the harness is there, it should provide the voltage (or ground as appropriate). The '11-14 shifter interlock is the same as the 5r55s. It is possible that connection is just not completed because of being a manual, as that would probably go through the sjb for power. It's been awhile since I researched this.
The select-shift option is a little baffling, since you're [likely] using the same software version for both. I haven't set up [in the coniguration] my select-shift yet, but have the buttons wired and ready to try.
I figured out the select shift issue. It’s because his was set up on a toggle switch for the flex shift or overdrive and mine is on a momentary switch and unless you’re on the momentary switch, it does not give you the option for the two second press of the overdrive button to engage select shift. I just need to set his up like mine on a momentary button for the overdrive on off instead of a toggle, but I still don’t know why the shifter is locked even with my foot on the brake and why both cars start in gear wired as I posted above.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Billy,
I wired a separate relay for neutral safety. triggered (grounded) from pin 1 of the controller: enables (grounds the relay coil) of the neutral safety relay; hot in start [red/blue from bec], through relay, white/pink power back to bec to starter relay'. The controller will ground pin 1 in park or neutral, allowing neutral safety to be wired in a manner tied in to manual-trans-like wiring, so pin 7 of c175t (wht/pnk) gets power from the bec during start.

I also wired in a relay for the backup lights.
Otherwise the wiring of the 16-pin connector I am using is pretty-much the same (except for preferences in o/d, select-shift, trans-brake, etc).
 

05stroker

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Billy,
I wired a separate relay for neutral safety. triggered (grounded) from pin 1 of the controller: enables (grounds the relay coil) of the neutral safety relay; hot in start [red/blue from bec], through relay, white/pink power back to bec to starter relay'. The controller will ground pin 1 in park or neutral, allowing neutral safety to be wired in a manner tied in to manual-trans-like wiring, so pin 7 of c175t (wht/pnk) gets power from the bec during start.

I also wired in a relay for the backup lights.
Otherwise the wiring of the 16-pin connector I am using is pretty-much the same (except for preferences in o/d, select-shift, trans-brake, etc).
OK, thank you I will dive back into it this weekend and see what I can figure out.
 

05stroker

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So it these wiring notes above the pin 11 needs to ground for the select shift buttons to work. Still working though way the shifter lock solenoid RD/BK has no power to it when I push the brake pedal. Even tried swapping BPP switch with my car.
 
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05stroker

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So, looks like it is the SJB being programmed for a stick car. The circuit I am looking for is not there , but the wiring harness is. That’s why I had to tie into the reverse lights pre SJB for them to work ( my car is postSJB) and I will also need to tie into the BPP switch pre SJB as well. Or swap the SJB I have in storage from Masons weight car that was an auto car. I found a thread from 2014 on a stick to auto swap that TexasBlownV8 and Lito were discussing this.

Now just to get the Starter relay corrected so the cars won’t start in gear.
 
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white95

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On to cooler plumbing and wiring. Ready to get to tuning putting some miles on this thing again.

IMG_0209.jpegIMG_0204.jpeg

So, my swap has a Lokar dipstick. The transmission still has fluid in it. What’s the over/under that the dipstick is remotely close to accurate? Would I be better off ditching that and using the stock plug/dipstick?
 

05stroker

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So, I'm going to throw it out here since this is where it all started and most of you have done more tuning with our Quick 6 controllers then I have at this point for normal driving. I'm having an issue with mine, (and have for a while) that when I do a WOT pull logging with my SCT I get a spike in RPMs after I let off the gas and go 0 on the TPS. here are a couple screen shots of the issue and the trans tune settings. Does anyone see something I am missing? I have the lockup turned off as far as I can tell. It doesn't affect anything except the RPM flash after WOT when I'm data logging or going WOT.

Just realized the pics are on my phone, update in a minute.
 

05stroker

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It almost feels like the converter is locking, even though I think it have turned off, but maybe one of the settings I have there is making it engage after I lift
 

greenmonster2

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Hey 05stroker, quick question seems like you know about the 6r80 and quick6. I’m having some trouble with the TCC lock out, I shut it off until 5th since it was locking in 3rd going local, but now seem like the trans is slipping in or surging rpms when shifting 2-3 and 3-4. I’m very new to this and trying to learn how to tune. Any suggestions besides selling everything?
 

TexasBlownV8

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No need to "sell everything", lol. One thing I found helpful was to make sure the proper Torque Converter Type is selected (as shown in the second picture above); I had a different issue, and after speaking with tech support, went in and set the type that was appopriate for my setup. You can change where it locks up under various conditions, too.
You may get more help by contacting tech support at USShift; they are very helpful and can offer suggestions. I understand the feeling of "is there an internal problem, or is it tuning, or both?".
 

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