Shortblock build questions!

[black N boosted]

I recently picked up a spare block from my buddy out of his 07, I just tore it down to the bare block! I am looking for info on what works with a centri blower in order to support between 650-700whp.. looking for suggestion on rotating assembly, compression ratios,fuel, listed below is my current setup

2006 mustang gt
60lb injectors
Gt500 dual pumps
Paxton novi 2200 with 3.25pulley
Blow thru conversion with tial 50m
Iw 10% overdrive pulley
Full suspension
Spydershat 1 piece drive shaft
Pypes or/h pipe
Flowmasrer mufflers
Frpp 4.10 gears
Spec 3+ clutch

 

[06StangGT]

BUMP

I'm glad I stumbled across this thread as I am running a very similar setup and want to get a different short-block or build my current '06 block. (52,000 miles) this coming year.

That being said, as far as shortblock replacement I've narrowed it down to either the Coast High 800hp block

or the Brenspeed B326 This block looks promising with the correct C:R to really up the boost on the 2200!!


For rebuilding our 3v block, From what I have read on this forum. Compression Ratio should be in the 9: range if I am not mistaken. Manly rods, and Diamond pistons work great in our blocks. And I have read people like the idea of the Cobra crank but its hard to find one that hasn't been redone several times.

Lets hope someone with more knowledge chimes in as I too am interested in this topic.

 

[weather man]

BUMP

I'm glad I stumbled across this thread as I am running a very similar setup and want to get a different short-block or build my current '06 block. (52,000 miles) this coming year.

That being said, as far as shortblock replacement I've narrowed it down to either the Coast High 800hp block

or the Brenspeed B326 This block looks promising with the correct C:R to really up the boost on the 2200!!


For rebuilding our 3v block, From what I have read on this forum. Compression Ratio should be in the 9: range if I am not mistaken. Manly rods, and Diamond pistons work great in our blocks. And I have read people like the idea of the Cobra crank but its hard to find one that hasn't been redone several times.

Lets hope someone with more knowledge chimes in as I too am interested in this topic.

DO NOT buy from Coast High, unless you want a never ending nightmare of lies and no delivery of parts.

Manley makes a stock stroke 4.6 forged crank. MMR is the only retailer I know of. Buying parts from MMR is generally safe, do not buy their shortblocks.

 

[skaarlaj]

Modularheadshop has some good parts and prices on their site for modulars, but I've read a couple bad experiences with them on svtp. Might be worth a look for you?

 

[raredesign]

in order to support between 650-700whp.. looking for suggestion on rotating assembly, compression ratios,fuel, listed below is my current setup

For rebuilding our 3v block, From what I have read on this forum. Compression Ratio should be in the 9: range if I am not mistaken. Manly rods, and Diamond pistons work great in our blocks. And I have read people like the idea of the Cobra crank but its hard to find one that hasn't been redone several times.

We are all in the same boat. I've been looking at the MMR 4.75 1500SE assembly.
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...age=product_info&cPath=4_7_54&products_id=362

Initially, I was set on forged rods, thinking that they would hold 1000rwhp (initial goal of 850rwhp is what i am after), which is apparently not the case. From what I have since learned, pushing past 800 flywheel is a risk, and with as much money and time that it takes, I'm trying to mitigate the risks...so, going to billet rods.

Looks like 5.0 strokers are frowned on, compared to staying as square as possible, like the 4.75. I'm going to ask MMR if they can put a 4.6 stock stroke kit together.

 

[Wes06]

eww mmr

 

[05sonic4.6]

Modmax has good prices on parts and completely rotating assemblies. They sell full forged stock stoke assemblies as well.

 

[raredesign]

eww mmr

I have been posting questions in multiple areas regarding MMR, and the majority of people who used them have not had issues, and if any, were relating to the motor.
Those that have complained always say the same. "Talk to so and so." or "A friend of mine.", etc. It's always second hand. The problem with that is you really don't know who is to blame, because I could have the best motor and a crappy tuner could blow it on a single pull. For that reason, one of the best if not the best builder in NY has completely pulled out of boosted motor applications.

The MMR rotating assemblies are manley parts, and I'm having all work done local, so I don't see any issue.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Getting the parts and assembling them yourself isn't too bad. It's when you have them assemble it the issues arise.

Depending on which sites you're looking at some delete posts that talk bad about a vendor.

While I haven't bought anything from MMR I've had three cars with their engines in my driveway. All three had issues. One ended up in boxes in my garage. I've posted about it on here before.

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[raredesign]

Getting the parts and assembling them yourself isn't too bad. It's when you have them assemble it the issues arise.

Depending on which sites you're looking at some delete posts that talk bad about a vendor.

While I haven't bought anything from MMR I've had three cars with their engines in my driveway. All three had issues. One ended up in boxes in my garage. I've posted about it on here before.

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk

Thank you for the insight about your personal experience.

Sorry to hear it didn’t go well. :-/


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[06StangGT]

We are all in the same boat. I've been looking at the MMR 4.75 1500SE assembly.
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...age=product_info&cPath=4_7_54&products_id=362

Initially, I was set on forged rods, thinking that they would hold 1000rwhp (initial goal of 850rwhp is what i am after), which is apparently not the case. From what I have since learned, pushing past 800 flywheel is a risk, and with as much money and time that it takes, I'm trying to mitigate the risks...so, going to billet rods.

Looks like 5.0 strokers are frowned on, compared to staying as square as possible, like the 4.75. I'm going to ask MMR if they can put a 4.6 stock stroke kit together.

So looking at Modmax website, you wouldn’t go with anything that has Stroker in the title of the rotating assembly?

I like the looks of this kit if Im going to rebuild. But I haven’t counted out the B326 replacement!

 

[Wes06]

The shit I've seen. I wouldn't give MMR money regardless if they made it, or just took the box from Manley and shipped it out.

Checkout the MMR oilpump thread. They painted them red. A part that goes inside the engine painted and it peeled off clogging the pickup

 

[702GT]

For a centri blower, pretty much anything that works with any other FI setup works for a centri. The things you may want to consider is how much race car you want vs how much street car you want. 650-700whp is easy enough to make with a 281 and a blower. The 2200 is a great blower size to use, although you'll be spinning it high. You'll want to make sure you size your pulley right so that you're not screaming out of its efficiency range. I have no comment on what size pulley, I don't know that blowers specs off hand.

Compression ratio should be considered for fuel availability. Are you okay with running dedicated e85, or perhaps just e85 for track days and 91/93 for cruising around, or are you restricted to 91 only. For the most versatility, a lower compression ratio will keep you more streetable, but you'll rely heavily on making big boost to make the power. With compression down, you'll also want to be picky about what cam you run, you'll want to keep as much boost in the cylinder as possible and not waste it out the exhaust. 8.5:1-9:1 would be on the extreme end of safe. 9.3:1-9.5:1 is favorably safe. Stock (9.7:1-10:1) would make better power but require a solid tune and quality fuel to avoid making a mess, but you'd have more selection on cams that can help compensate the compression vs overlap with improved air velocity. Obviously beyond that you're getting into higher compression and higher octane requirements.

Should budget be a factor in hardware selection:

For choice in hardware, BruceH has had great success with using the coyote boss rods as a budget supplement to traditional forged H beams. There are also some budget choices on pistons with varying compression ratios (such as Roush over-stock pistons by Mahle came 9:1 and 9.5:1 if I remember right). As well, the stock crank hasn't failed anyone at that power level, yet documented. Personally, I would have continued to use my stock crank in a forged build. For fasteners, I would stick with OE on everything but the crank bolt, mains, and rods. Go ARP for those. TTY head bolts work great and consistent. I would certainly invest in a built oil pump, plenty of write ups on that on how to put one together. FoMoCo gaskets/seals all the way. Any belt driven S/C should consider an ATI Super Damper or similar, as well as a good tensioner (or at least new OE). Your selection on cams will have to determine what valvetrain you'll need.

If money is no object:

Build it with whatever price tag you find appealing, can't hardly go wrong these days. Unless it's from MMR.

 

[raredesign]

So looking at Modmax website, you wouldn’t go with anything that has Stroker in the title of the rotating assembly?

I like the looks of this kit if Im going to rebuild. But I haven’t counted out the B326 replacement!

The modmax kits certainly look good. I’d consider the billet rods if going over 800hp flywheel.

The striking consideration is more of a 50/50 dilemma as everyone seems split on it.

The owner of modmax pointed out that the rod length of the Shelby is a 4.750 so don’t worry about the stroke length.

On the flip side I’ve heard the pistons skirt ends up more shallow, pushing the wristpin further up.

Some with strokes motors on boost didn’t notice any low end advantage worth noting.





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[raredesign]

Checkout the MMR oilpump thread. They painted them red. A part that goes inside the engine painted and it peeled off clogging the pickup

That’s nuts! What would possess someone to paint a gear?! lol




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[Wes06]

That’s nuts! What would possess someone to paint a gear?! lol




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http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119200&highlight=oil+pump+paint


yup

 

[RocketcarX]

I've always wanted to do a max cubic inch build using a big bore block, Jon Kasse created a 409 cubic inch DOHC mod motor for engine masters one year, his custom sleeved bores weren't that far off of a big bore block dimensions.
I were to spend my money to pay a company like MMR or Brenspeed or whoever I would choose Mod Max, I have never seen a bad word about them and all they do is engine building.

 

[weather man]

The thing I have noticed with MMR is that if you are somebody, build quality is great, if you are a regular Joe, quality is hit or miss.

 

[Wes06]

The thing I have noticed with MMR is that if you are somebody, build quality is great, if you are a regular Joe, quality is hit or miss.

That's why I always laugh when people say "their shop car is plenty fast and no issues" and the like. Because if the shop car fails they don't sell as much. They gotta make themselves look good, to really phone it in on actual customer work

 

[raredesign]

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119200&highlight=oil+pump+paint


yup

The source that the thread is about is here https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/mmr-hurricane-pump-issue.1050084/page-2

Reading through it, Mark came through and made it right. It was also mentioned to be an isolated incident that may have been the fault of the installer. The paint is oil resistant, but if a solvent had been used to clean it, that would break down the paint. Either way, I wouldn't want a painted part in the motor like that, but Mark did follow up well.