MGW Shifter

ShelbySteve

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I found a MGW shifter on fb marketplace but I noticed it’s not the newest version. I did some research and the guys in the old threads on different forums said it wasn’t worth upgrading to the new one if they already had the older version. I’m getting it pretty cheap and it looks to be in great condition but wanted to make sure I didn’t need to just go ahead and spend the extra for the new version (I have a hurst now but it rattles like hell).
 

06StangGT

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I found a MGW shifter on fb marketplace but I noticed it’s not the newest version. I did some research and the guys in the old threads on different forums said it wasn’t worth upgrading to the new one if they already had the older version. I’m getting it pretty cheap and it looks to be in great condition but wanted to make sure I didn’t need to just go ahead and spend the extra for the new version (I have a hurst now but it rattles like hell).

If you’re rocking the hurst now, then it will be a solid upgrade for sure. I first had the hurst on my 3650 and upgraded to the MGW, it was a lot better for sure. The hurst made all kinds of noise and when comparing the two units side by side, the MGW piece was just better built all around. I now use the MGW in my 6060 and love that it’s adjustable as well.


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ShelbySteve

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If you’re rocking the hurst now, then it will be a solid upgrade for sure. I first had the hurst on my 3650 and upgraded to the MGW, it was a lot better for sure. The hurst made all kinds of noise and when comparing the two units side by side, the MGW piece was just better built all around. I now use the MGW in my 6060 and love that it’s adjustable as well.


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I’ve read nothing but good things about the MGW. I just wanted to make sure if I went with the earlier version it was still good to go. For $125 it’s gonna be hard not to pick it up either way lol.
 

WJBertrand

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I’ve read nothing but good things about the MGW. I just wanted to make sure if I went with the earlier version it was still good to go. For $125 it’s gonna be hard not to pick it up either way lol.

I’ve got an original version and combined with a Blowfish bracket, which mounts the shifter to the transmission, it works great. The later models of the MGW mount directly to the transmission so no advantage to use the BF bracket. At $125, I’d grab that!


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ShelbySteve

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I’ve got an original version and combined with a Blowfish bracket, which mounts the shifter to the transmission, it works great. The later models of the MGW mount directly to the transmission so no advantage to use the BF bracket. At $125, I’d grab that!


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Thanks man. Excited to get it installed and get rid of this damn ashtray with change in it rattle.
 

xeninworx

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I’ve got an original version and combined with a Blowfish bracket, which mounts the shifter to the transmission, it works great. The later models of the MGW mount directly to the transmission so no advantage to use the BF bracket. At $125, I’d grab that!


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I was looking to get a new MGW shifter in the future for myself but I didn’t know if getting a Blowfish Racing bracket would be necessary. Thanks for unintentionally answering that question for me. Here in Canada it’s harder to find a used shifter. Most likely will have to buy a new one from the USA.
 

GlassTop09

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Hey all, just to give a last recommendation as you've already addressed the shifter improvement part.....now I would recommend that you address the shifter linkage part at the same time while you're swapping out the shifters by installing this: Amazon.com: AMP Tr3650 T5 Bronze Remote Shifter Bushing Kit: Automotive

These bushings will take out the slop in the shifter linkage created from the plastic bushings in the shifter linkage mounting sections (including the trans gearshift linkage) wearing out giving you as close to the feel\operation of a solid mounted shifter as you can get w\ this TR3650 trans once you install that MGW shifter w\ Blowfish bracket.

I used some PTFE grease (or marine grease if you prefer) on my AMP bushings when I installed them but most any decent automotive lube grease will do as these bronze bushings aren't the sintered type (self lube) & have been in service for a little over 1 yr w\o any issues to date.

Hope this helps.
 

ShelbySteve

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At that price - grab 'er up, or I will. ;) :D
Went and picked it up even in the snow here in East Texas lol. I’ll be installing it without the blowfish bracket as I’ll save that money for when I go boost and swap the trans at the same time. The guy I bought it from used 7 turns as his setting...watched a YouTube video and they recommend 6. Any significant difference between the 2?
A72FF97A-FA73-4491-9114-AFB7E7BAC3FE.png
 

tbear853

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(I have a hurst now but it rattles like hell).
My Hurst rattled until I took the boots off, put a generous amount of simple wheel bearing grease on the top of the ball through which the shift lever extends, then I put a piece of flexible plastic (not a Walmart bag, but that would work) with a hole for the lever on top of grease, then put the inner boot on followed by the dress boot, then I put some silicone seal in the knob to fill any voids above the lever's threads, then I put the ball on the lever. No more rattles.

ShiftDetails041014 800w.jpg
 

tbear853

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Hey all, just to give a last recommendation as you've already addressed the shifter improvement part.....now I would recommend that you address the shifter linkage part at the same time while you're swapping out the shifters by installing this: Amazon.com: AMP Tr3650 T5 Bronze Remote Shifter Bushing Kit: Automotive

These bushings will take out the slop in the shifter linkage created from the plastic bushings in the shifter linkage mounting sections (including the trans gearshift linkage) wearing out giving you as close to the feel\operation of a solid mounted shifter as you can get w\ this TR3650 trans once you install that MGW shifter w\ Blowfish bracket.

I used some PTFE grease (or marine grease if you prefer) on my AMP bushings when I installed them but most any decent automotive lube grease will do as these bronze bushings aren't the sintered type (self lube) & have been in service for a little over 1 yr w\o any issues to date.

Hope this helps.
Ordered my set yesterday after just recently stumbling upon them in a search a few days ago. I just took a gamble. Just now saw your post after replying above. A year of use, sounds like I'll be pleased then.

I don't think you need a blowfish bracket as the mounting of the shifter has to allow the engine & trans to wiggle within the chassis which the floor pan is part of. You could weld the shifter mount to the transmission, brace it, totally separate it from the car floor pan and if you don't use better bushings, you'll have wasted motion and a not so secure feel. Even with my Hurst C+ Billet, I used the stock Ford rear isolator rubber insert.

Back in the '70s we had the same issues with some plastic bushings used by some auto makers using Hurst shifters for the name, or Muncie Shifters in Chevy's. Switch them over to the metal bushings, huge change. My 340 Swinger had a Hurst stick in a molded block of rubber in top of a Competition Plus shifter, it came out in my hand on a 1-2 shift. (I wore out a couple drill bits drilling it to bolt like it should have been, mean while my Dodge Hurst had a pair of vice grips for shifting).
 
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skwerl

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I was looking to get a new MGW shifter in the future for myself but I didn’t know if getting a Blowfish Racing bracket would be necessary. Thanks for unintentionally answering that question for me. Here in Canada it’s harder to find a used shifter. Most likely will have to buy a new one from the USA.
I got in on the very first batch of Blowfish brackets. I had it in my car for about 3-4 weeks and removed it. In my car it made the shifter vibrate all the damn time and was annoying as hell. So unless you have a major problem with your transmission, leave it alone. The MGW all by itself is a massive improvement over stock but the 3650 is still a crappy gearbox.
 

xeninworx

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I got in on the very first batch of Blowfish brackets. I had it in my car for about 3-4 weeks and removed it. In my car it made the shifter vibrate all the damn time and was annoying as hell. So unless you have a major problem with your transmission, leave it alone. The MGW all by itself is a massive improvement over stock but the 3650 is still a crappy gearbox.
Blowfish is on their 3rd revision so I think they made it better. I don’t have any problems with my MT82 that other people have. I’d just like more precise and more solid shifts.
 

skwerl

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I bought my MGW shifter for my 2014 MT82 before I got the car home from the dealership. Loved it, never had a single complaint with the shifter. The MT82 had a clunk in it though.
 

zoomerman46

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Have original first gen MGW shifter in my 05GT since 2006. Never a problem. Set at 6 turns. I've played with the position of the handle from slight offset side to side to reversing the handle forward to backward.Untill I found what was most comfortable position.

One other thing that helped was I installed a CHE K-member brace. https://www.cheperformance.com/collections/2005-2010-mustang-parts-1/products/che7la Helped keeping the eng/trans from moving.Helped with missed shifts. Cheaper alternative to Blowfish
 

pass1over

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Ordered my set yesterday after just recently stumbling upon them in a search a few days ago. I just took a gamble. Just now saw your post after replying above. A year of use, sounds like I'll be pleased then.

I don't think you need a blowfish bracket as the mounting of the shifter has to allow the engine & trans to wiggle within the chassis which the floor pan is part of. You could weld the shifter mount to the transmission, brace it, totally separate it from the car floor pan and if you don't use better bushings, you'll have wasted motion and a not so secure feel. Even with my Hurst C+ Billet, I used the stock Ford rear isolator rubber insert.

Back in the '70s we had the same issues with some plastic bushings used by some auto makers using Hurst shifters for the name, or Muncie Shifters in Chevy's. Switch them over to the metal bushings, huge change. My 340 Swinger had a Hurst stick in a molded block of rubber in top of a Competition Plus shifter, it came out in my hand on a 1-2 shift. (I wore out a couple drill bits drilling it to bolt like it should have been, mean while my Dodge Hurst had a pair of vice grips for shifting).


I put one of these bronze bushings into my t5 when I swapped the Tri-Ax over, It feels totally solid now, no slop at all. I love it.
 

Norm Peterson

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I got in on the very first batch of Blowfish brackets. I had it in my car for about 3-4 weeks and removed it. In my car it made the shifter vibrate all the damn time and was annoying as hell. So unless you have a major problem with your transmission, leave it alone. The MGW all by itself is a massive improvement over stock but the 3650 is still a crappy gearbox.
I don't think it's as much the gearbox itself as it is the link from the shift rail back to the shifter proper. Apparently it's subject to a certain amount of wear that results in a loss of precision.

Shifter, TR3650.jpg


Norm
 
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Norm Peterson

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My Hurst rattled until I took the boots off, put a generous amount of simple wheel bearing grease on the top of the ball through which the shift lever extends, then I put a piece of flexible plastic (not a Walmart bag, but that would work) with a hole for the lever on top of grease, then put the inner boot on followed by the dress boot, then I put some silicone seal in the knob to fill any voids above the lever's threads, then I put the ball on the lever. No more rattles.

View attachment 76005
Nice to see DIY solutions to a problem. It's more like the way hotrodding used to be when that might have been your only option.

I did something similar to my MGW, which was precise enough but too notchy for me.

MGW's, mine, Ford's,.jpg

Modified shift lever as initially installed.jpg


Too much drivetrain noise, so I insulated it all . . .

Modified shift lever (extended with the metal bits covered).JPG
Norm
 
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