1.4 amp draw - pulled fuse 56

dancad

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My 2008 Shaker 500 CD player quit recently so I pulled the head unit and took the CD player out, put head back in. Ran fine for a few weeks then this am dead battery. Disconnected the negative terminal and with meter on 10 amp setting, probed negative terminal to connector and read a whopping 1.3 amps. Pulled fuse 56 and dropped to 0.15 amps

Is it one of the amps, radio, or something else

Checked inside fuse box and all looks dry and clean. Left that 20 amp radio fuse in
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Fuse 56 is for the radio or SDARS, and parasitic battery drain is a common problem on cars equipped with the Shaker system.
 

08MustangDude

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Yeah, SDARS is Satellite Digital Audio Receiver Service(s).

Fuse 16 is the Shaker500 Amps.
6 and 9 are Rear Amps (Shaker1000).

This drain is also common when an aftermarket system is installed incorrectly.
 

dancad

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Thanks. I pulled 56 last nite and battery volts at 12.58 at that time. Four hours later 12.28, 8 hours later 11.8

Checked amp draw and 0.35

Pulled 16 and still 0.35

Leaving neg terminal off and charging battery will check voltage after complete and during the day to eliminate battery

What else could this be ?
 

dancad

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Pulled out the radio completely and still pulling 0.35 amps

Will let it sit a few hours and will check again
 

Caden

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What ever came of this? I'm getting similar current draw numbers. Right now if I have fuse 9 under the hood plugged in, I get a .35 amp draw, but if I remove it I get a .12 draw. Why is my shaker drawing power? How do we mend this without losing the tunes??
 

DieHarder

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What ever came of this? I'm getting similar current draw numbers. Right now if I have fuse 9 under the hood plugged in, I get a .35 amp draw, but if I remove it I get a .12 draw. Why is my shaker drawing power? How do we mend this without losing the tunes??

Take a look at this thread for some ideas: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2006-mustang-gt-premium-dead-battery-every-couple-days.127172/

Some sources of current draws for these radios are diodes, transistor p/n junctions and leaky capacitors. All things break down with age but these are the most likely IMHO. A quick/cheap fix would be to cut the power cable for the Shaker and insert a rocker switch somewhere discrete (center console/glove box) that you can turn on whenever you want the radio. Maybe not ideal but should take care of the parasitic draw.
 

Caden

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Some sources of current draws for these radios are diodes, transistor p/n junctions and leaky capacitors. All things break down with age but these are the most likely IMHO. A quick/cheap fix would be to cut the power cable for the Shaker and insert a rocker switch somewhere discrete (center console/glove box) that you can turn on whenever you want the radio. Maybe not ideal but should take care of the parasitic draw.

Ugh. You are probably right. Would you happen to know what cable I should tap the switch into? Or perhaps a resource for how the shaker is wired? Thanks for the reply
 

DieHarder

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Ugh. You are probably right. Would you happen to know what cable I should tap the switch into? Or perhaps a resource for how the shaker is wired? Thanks for the reply

Before you go that far you might just want to try turning the radio off completely before you turn the car off and recheck the current draws. Check draws for F6, F9 & F16. If draws remain the same proceed.

Power to the radio comes from the BEC (Fuse 56) on a Red/White wire to Connector C290D, Pin 1 of the radio. Pull F56 and verify the radio loses power completely and try to turn the radio on (Key On). Then recheck the current draws to ensure this solves the problem.
https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Audio System, Navigation.pdf (F56 supplies pwr to radio).

If you still have current draws with radio off and F56 pulled; then determine if F6, F9 or F16 is the source.

https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Power Distribution-SJB.pdf
F16 (BEC) supplies pwr to the subwoofer amps (left/right) Front channels on a (wht/violet) wire. According to the electrical manual power is supplied to the amps at all times (F6, F9, F16). The amps aren't actually supposed to draw power however until the key is in the on/acc position. Do yourself a favor and check the draws for all three and report.

https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Power Distribution-SJB.pdf&p=2 (shows F9 supports the subwoofers) F9 (BEC) goes to the Right/Inboard (Pink/Yel), Left/Outboard (Pink/Yel wires) subwoofer amps. And F6 (BEC) supports the Right/Outboard, Left/Inboard (Violet/Lt Blue wires) subwoofer amps. Might as well check both while you're in there.
 

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