What are your boosted IAT

[Pentalab]

Any problems w/Air buffeting at high speeds? Had to add an air diverter to pull air from the engine bay and exhaust it out the bottom of the engine on my son's 07. I had replaced the stock grill after an accident with an aftermarket one and the amount of air that would hit the front grill and try to enter the engine bay at 70+ would buffet the hood like crazy and start to push the front end at 80+. Got so squirrely at times couldn't really drive it faster than that.

I don't have that problem w/my GT but only about half of the grill is open at the upper grill for airflow thru the radiator. I also have an aftermarket bumper/grill on it but it has a larger opening at the bottom so the HE gets enough airflow to cool effectively for the most part and I don't often sit in traffic so that's not really an issue either.

Zero issues with buffeting at high speeds.

 

[Pentalab]

Well I got a 2.5 gallon tank In The trunk have been running that for a while

last night I ordered a cwa400 pump

And

Mishimoto universal heat exchanger 19x15x2

I had been trying to not replace the heat exchanger cause I eventually wanted a Interchiller setup but that ain’t gonna happen so ill give this a shot and see what happens

I was looking at logs last night and my car would bassicly run at 130 all
Day and at the end of a run would be up around 160

With a 2.5 gallon tank in the trunk, I can't fathom whey you are having high IAT issues.

 

[Pentalab]

The easiest ways to increase the efficiency is to add volume. A larger reservoir tank will increase the capacity of the system as well as maybe a larger heat exchanger up front. More coolant flow with a larger pump may also help but there is a point where you will flow too much and the coolant won't have enough time in the intercooler to transfer heat energy.

He's already got a huge 2.5 gallon tank in the trunk. Something is amiss here. 165 F at night, something is screwed up....even with a small HE.

 

[DieHarder]

I have been tracking and trying to combat IATs for some time now. Starting with the ambient air sensor mounted in the lower grill, I have added a sensor to the inlet air duct directly in front of the throttle body and another in the plenum under the Roush blower manifold. The IAT sending unit the PLC uses is mounted in runner #6 of the intake manifold. It is difficult to watch all these numbers at the same time but it is possible to spot check them and compare to data logs. The first problem I see is under hood temperature influence on the inlet air and the next is heat soak. Engine bay temp of 60* or more above ambient have a huge impact on the air going in the throttle body. Above 50mph this is not a problem and running the air conditioner in slow city traffic helps a good deal but it is not ideal. The GT500 style heat exchanger and pump does actually work when in boost but probably not for a extended period. If I have an IAT of 128* just cruising around and go wide open “closes the bypass” boost comes up to 17 or 18 psi and the IAT will go down to around 109* within 10 seconds. I’m sure it will eventually heat soak but I have never been in boost for more than 10 or 15 seconds.

First, I agree with what you're monitoring sensor wise. I use a VLS dual temp gauge (meant for a turbo system) with a sensor in the elbow to monitor ambient just aft of the throttle body (probably not ideal) and another in the plenum just past the IC (compressed size) so I know what the temps are but they don't feed anything system wise. I have to admit I find it odd that your cruising temps linger on the higher end and then go down while under boost. Mine do the exact opposite. I might cruise at around 105 (plenum) and hit it and it may rise 5 - 10 deg for a 10 sec pull then go back down to what it was as long as I continue cruising.

I run a DOB kit with an insulator so heat soak isn't usually a problem unless I have to sit in traffic which isn't very often as I don't have a commute to worry about. If it does get hot (+130) a short run at freeway speeds (~70) will cool her down fairly quickly. I also use the larger HE from a 2014 GT500 and pump. Guess next time I go out I'll pay closer attention to exactly what the temps are doing to verify.

Like you surmise the issue may be heat soak in your case where the plenum gets heated by conduction but I'm still puzzled why your plenum temps would go down under boost as the pump is moving water continuously thru the HE/IC so those temps should be at their minimum and only go up under boost and then back down later as the system pulls out excess heat while cruising... Q: Are you pulling in cool water from somewhere?

 

[Midlife Crises]

puzzled

I believe when the bypass valve is open air is allowed to inter the plenum without passing through the heat exchanger. I dug through some old data logs and found one that shows exactly what I mean. It is not extreme but does show the boost and temperature swing.
First is the IAT taken at runner #6 of the intake manifold just before interning the cylinder head.
The second screen shot is boost pressure hi-lighted in the exact same place on the chart.

 

[Gearjammer2287]

With a 2.5 gallon tank in the trunk, I can't fathom whey you are having high IAT issues.

Yeah it’s dumb…. even more so what if I said I have filled the tank with about 8-10lbs of ice and only managed to get the temps about 10-15 degrees lower…..
and that’s because I have monitored the temps of water going into the brick and water temps were in the 50s


I am contemplating welding a bung into one of the runners and using a screw in iat just to monitor from another spot

Next question for you boosted guys is what timing are u able to run with your lower iat temps

I can run 22-24 degrees with out detonation

 

[Midlife Crises]

welding a bung into one of the runners

I completely agree that the IAT sensor should be mounted in the airstream after the supercharger and intercooler. An intake runner is the most practical location I see. This would give the engine controller the most accurate information to react too. The sensor on my 2010 is screwed into runner #6 and protrudes into the airstream. That is where Roush put it. Now I have to ask, where is the IAT sensor located on the setup you are using?

 

[Gearjammer2287]

Edelbrock converted it to a TMAP sensor but only uses the the temp part of it
I’m not sure if it’s an open element sensor I’m would assume so tho

 

[429244]

I run my Roush 2.3 SC at two different boost levels, 10 & 15 psi. The extra 5 pounds change IATs but it is not drastic. I race in the evening and into the night and that is really when I monitor the temps. On hot nights (85 degrees or so), I see temps that are around the 130 mark. To be clear, this is IAT idling in the lanes. I have to raise the rpms up to keep the IAT under 130. Timing is pulled at 130 and the car becomes inconsistent. I think heat soak is a big issue. I am thinking about trying these but I right now I just can't justify $400 for plastic https://fiinterchillers.com/product/ford-3v-4-6-5-4l-2005-2010-blower-spacer-plates/ . If anyone is using them, let me know if they helped.
A lower temp thermostat was mentioned. I have gone that route with my Roush. There was a big change in IAT's when I dropped to a 160 t-stat but you have to change the temp at which the fans come on to go with the t-stat change.
Over the years, I have read about high IATs with the Eforce. It sounds like a constant battle. Big pumps and heat exchangers seem to help. Talk to Jason at Department of Boost and see if he can help.

 

[DieHarder]

I run my Roush 2.3 SC at two different boost levels, 10 & 15 psi. The extra 5 pounds change IATs but it is not drastic. I race in the evening and into the night and that is really when I monitor the temps. On hot nights (85 degrees or so), I see temps that are around the 130 mark. To be clear, this is IAT idling in the lanes. I have to raise the rpms up to keep the IAT under 130. Timing is pulled at 130 and the car becomes inconsistent. I think heat soak is a big issue. I am thinking about trying these but I right now I just can't justify $400 for plastic https://fiinterchillers.com/product/ford-3v-4-6-5-4l-2005-2010-blower-spacer-plates/ . If anyone is using them, let me know if they helped.
A lower temp thermostat was mentioned. I have gone that route with my Roush. There was a big change in IAT's when I dropped to a 160 t-stat but you have to change the temp at which the fans come on to go with the t-stat change.
Over the years, I have read about high IATs with the Eforce. It sounds like a constant battle. Big pumps and heat exchangers seem to help. Talk to Jason at Department of Boost and see if he can help.

They're actually similar to the composite heat barrier/insulator DOB adds to their supercharger manifold and should help lower IATs by quite a bit (and what I use on my setup). If you do go with it you will likely have to play with the size of the pulleys and/or belt as you're adding height (10mm) to the setup you have. You might also need to spring for longer manifold bolts. At $400 maybe expensive for what it is but an excellent solution compared to other fixes that won't address heat soak. You could try dealing with it other ways; larger HE/adding fans/larger pumps, etc... but if it were me I'd go with the spacers.

 

[Doobage1922]

Whay strut

Another issue you're fighting is heat soak. The supercharger intake/IC manifold is aluminum and bolts to an aluminum head. This results in higher temps within the intake/IC as the engine gets up to operating temps. DOBs answer to that was adding about 1/2" of high temp insulation material between the supercharger manifold and head (and one of the reasons I bought it). I imagine it's good for at least 20 - 60 deg or more. In my case my IATs never really go higher than about 120 (compressed side/summer 85 deg/freeway speeds) when I'm not on it and up to 128 - 130 when I am. The highest I've ever seen was 150 but the pump wasn't working right. My temps can go up over 130 - 135 sitting in traffic but that's about it unless there's something not working right in the system. In winter (50 - 60 ambient) I may not see higher than 85-90 compressed on a given day. The other things I added that probably help contribute some are a 170 deg thermostat and a De-gas jug by-pass that improves flow somewhat. I haven't tried adding larger lines yet but if I did I would probably go with 1" primary lines and a bigger (higher flow) pump.

Here's a pic. The insulation material is at the bottom of the manifold (easier to see on the mockups).

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Which strut tower brace is that?

 

[DieHarder]

It's on the lower grille , driver's side, on my 2010.

Whay strut

Which strut tower brace is that?

Ingalls - but I modified it by cutting off one of the bars to get it to work with my blower setup. Not sure if they're still in business. This is all I could find on them.

Ingalls strut tower braces, front and rear. - MustangForums.com

S197 Handling Section - Ingalls strut tower braces, front and rear. - First, I know they're not really needed on our cars, but I like the look and figure if they don't help the handling at least they won't hurt. They look well made, but pictures can be deceiving. Does anyone have them? How's the...

mustangforums.com

 

[Laga]

With my E-Force, I have a VMP HE and a Davies Graig 150 pump. At 11# of boost, my intercooler water temperature is roughly 20° above ambient, and the IAT is 30°above ambient.
I was at a track day back in mid May with temperatures in upper 80’s on a 1.9 mile track, and my IAT never got over 135°. I monitor intercooler water temperature with a separate gauge, and IAT with an Interceptor gauge.
Photo from the track day at Blackhawk Farm near Rockford IL.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Laga. I like the appearance of the hood you are running. Did you notice any change in under hood temperature after installing it? I also wonder if the front spoiler will help push some of the hot air out of the engine bay.

 

[Laga]

I do believe that the hood helps keep the engine bay cooler. Not only does it have open scoops on top. The rear edge up against the cowl is raised. I had my son-in-law hang out the passenger window to feel the air coming out and he said it was definitely warmer than ambient.
As far as the spoiler, I don’t know.

 

[Gearjammer2287]

I’d like to think the right hood would help a lot I just ditched my stock hood wich would shake like it was gonna fly off starting at 75mph

I replaced it with a terminator style with open vent towards the cowl also and it seems to not move like crazy any more I can only assume it’s evacuating air more efficiently

 

[diambo4life]

Mine stays right at ambient...and will go up maybe 10 degrees during a 3rd gear pull...and that's on a hot summer day. I am sure if I put ice in the tank, I can get it to below ambient easy. I haven't logged it through a 1/4 pull since I have not been to the track yet. On my Whipple F150, I also saw a very modest increase during a pull. It was very efficient and that was with the tiny ass reservoir under the hood. My S197 has a huge 8 gallon reservoir in the tank and a decently sized front mounted W2A intercooler. Just turning the pump on with the water at ambient, the IATs drop by 15 degrees almost immediately with the car idling...lol.

 

[Gearjammer2287]

I haven’t been able to put my big pump and titanic cooler on mine yet hopefully in November but I have been cruising the forum and have seen a couple other people complain about IAT with the Eforce of corse the posts were 10 years old lol I got my got my fingers cross I can get them under control

Cause I’m thinking that my next step it to spray a boat load of meth threw the rotors and brick and see if I can’t get em down that way

I have used a dry 50 shot of nitrous before and noticed no difference at all

 

[Laga]

I haven’t been able to put my big pump and titanic cooler on mine yet hopefully in November but I have been cruising the forum and have seen a couple other people complain about IAT with the Eforce of corse the posts were 10 years old lol I got my got my fingers cross I can get them under control

Cause I’m thinking that my next step it to spray a boat load of meth threw the rotors and brick and see if I can’t get em down that way

I have used a dry 50 shot of nitrous before and noticed no difference at all

Methanol is very corrosive. I would not spray it into the SC.

Edit:Back in July. I went to a track day, and just for the hell of it, decided to remove front license plate bracket from front bumper.
IIRC, I saw at lease a 15°F reduction in intercooler and transmission temperature. I’m going back again tomorrow and will do the same. It will not be a fair comparison because July was 90° and tomorrow is supposed to be in low 60°’s.

 

[Pentalab]

Methanol is very corrosive. I would not spray it into the SC.

Edit:Back in July. I went to a track day, and just for the hell of it, decided to remove front license plate bracket from front bumper.
IIRC, I saw at lease a 15°F reduction in intercooler and transmission temperature. I’m going back again tomorrow and will do the same. It will not be a fair comparison because July was 90° and tomorrow is supposed to be in low 60°’s.

Years ago, folks were spraying a combo of 50% distilled water and 50% methanol into the elbow that feeds the back of the blower on Roush SC's. The water cooled the charge. The methanol was just a cheap octane booster.