Clutch ..time for a change ?

[86GT351]

I strongly suggest resurfacing the flywheel with any new clutch replacement.

Correct. This is a must. Just like when you do brakes. Replace or resurface the rotors o there is a perfect mting surface

 

[Blue03Cobra]

I strongly suggest resurfacing the flywheel with any new clutch replacement.

Ditto. How many miles? (Rear main seal, WYAIT)...

 

[brasil]

..have a new SACHS flywheel here.. so I will use the new one. Car has 70 k mls on the odometer.
Rear main seal... I have a new one, but if the current one is not leaking... why change a running system. ? Will say ..the OEM Stuff is always way better than the replacement stuff. So I am a little afraid, that I install "new piece " with minor quality.
But you are right... IF there is some oil smear / leak the rear seal must be changed.

Saw a video where they pull the bearing retainer.. to change the oil seal. Looks like a good way to go..

 

[brasil]

..@ Blue03Cobra. the rear seal started to leak...

see pics

so tomorrow I will install the new ring and the slinger

 

[Midlife Crises]

..have a new SACHS flywheel here.. so I will use the new one. Car has 70 k mls on the odometer.
Rear main seal... I have a new one, but if the current one is not leaking... why change a running system. ? Will say ..the OEM Stuff is always way better than the replacement stuff. So I am a little afraid, that I install "new piece " with minor quality.
But you are right... IF there is some oil smear / leak the rear seal must be changed.

Saw a video where they pull the bearing retainer.. to change the oil seal. Looks like a good way to go..

Just to be clear. It is important you measure the preload using the parts you intend to run. If you use the stock flywheel, have it resurfaced and then measure the preload. If you intend to run a new flywheel use it when measuring. The stack height will change with different components. This includes the clutch disc and pressure plate.

 

[brasil]

@ Midlife Crises. Yes, I understand what your are meaning. Every alternation of the set-up..Flywheel.. Clutch Kit.. a.s.o. will result in a different preload number. And this results in a different shim /spacer thickness.

My biggest concern is the "right " preload number.. i.e looks like 1 inch ( 25.4 mm ) is the number most of the guys are talking about ..

But when I think about the function of the TOB and the working area /space.. I see only 0.43 " (11 mm ) left for the space that is needed if the clutch wears out / the TOB bottoms out. Because the complete working stroke of the TOB is 1.432 " ( 36,43 mm ).

I am also in doubt if I should use the GT 500 master..or stay with a stock ( Sachs ) master...

Now I will go to a machine shop , hoping that they can make me a installation tool for the rear oil seal..

Greetings from Germany to Alaska

Jurgen

 

[brasil]

Friend of mine.. has a lathe. . Here is the result , a tool for the installation of the rear main seal.
Made from Teflon...

 

[brasil]

installed the rear main seal... used the FEL PRO BS40644 ( the PTFE seal, with the Install sleeve )

was a little tricky, because the sleeve wasn´t a real help for the installation. so at the end I finished the job without that "sleeve " HOPE that the seal is sealing...

after the rear main seal was installed, I reinstalled the oil slinger..

tomorrow I will ask the "lathe master " again, if he can reduce my 0.5200 spacer I bought from Summit. With the new flywheel , the new LUK clutch kit, I have a total preload of 0.4649 if I add the 0.5200 spacer - the preload will be 0.9849 .

 

[Midlife Crises]

installed the rear main seal... used the FEL PRO BS40644 ( the PTFE seal, with the Install sleeve )

was a little tricky, because the sleeve wasn´t a real help for the installation. so at the end I finished the job without that "sleeve " HOPE that the seal is sealing...

after the rear main seal was installed, I reinstalled the oil slinger..

tomorrow I will ask the "lathe master " again, if he can reduce my 0.5200 spacer I bought from Summit. With the new flywheel , the new LUK clutch kit, I have a total preload of 0.4649 if I add the 0.5200 spacer - the preload will be 0.9849 .

0.9849” preload would work just fine.

 

[brasil]

@ Midlife Crises. So I will install all the parts now... hoping that everything works thereafter .

My concern is the little space -left for the clutch wear... 0.4 inches until the TOB reaches the end of the compressed travel /space... I don´t want to replace the clutch after 30-40 k mls... or so

 

[whitmanink]

Friend of mine.. has a lathe. . Here is the result , a tool for the installation of the rear main seal.
Made from Teflon...

View attachment 117373

View attachment 117374

yea i just used a axle socket and used the old (rear seal) one as a "buffer" on the new one while driving it in,,
i always did it like that and never had issues ,.

 

[Midlife Crises]

@ Midlife Crises. So I will install all the parts now... hoping that everything works thereafter .

My concern is the little space -left for the clutch wear... 0.4 inches until the TOB reaches the end of the compressed travel /space... I don´t want to replace the clutch after 30-40 k mls... or so

If the measurements you have given are correct, you will compress the throwout bearing 0.9849” when you bolt the transmission to the engine as long as you use the 0.5200” spacer. This will allow more than enough room for full clutch movement and disc ware. The clutch is hydraulic so it will adjust itself as the disc wares and you will never know it’s happening. Also, by the time you use up four tenths of an inch of clutch material the rivets will be dragging on the flywheel and/or pressure plate and the throwout will still have room to work.
If you have your lathe buddy reduce the thickness of the 0.5200” spacer, wouldn’t you have “less” preload?

 

[brasil]

We made a new spacer today.. 0.350 " ...so total prelaod is 0.767 "with the old flywheel . And 0.817 with the new SACHS flywheel....

BUT. the next "nightmare " appeared right now... The new LUK clutch disc is rattles. The small inner springs of the torrison set-up rattle awful inside the bigger / taler springs.. Looks like I need another clutch disc...

 

[Midlife Crises]

We made a new spacer today.. 0.350 " ...so total prelaod is 0.767 "with the old flywheel . And 0.817 with the new SACHS flywheel....

BUT. the next "nightmare " appeared right now... The new LUK clutch disc is rattles. The small inner springs of the torrison set-up rattle awful inside the bigger / taler springs.. Looks like I need another clutch disc...

If it’s any help at all. This is the spacer I used when I installed a T56 mag. XL and a McMeod twin disc. Notice the spacer is flanged to center itself on the transmission and the throwout unit centers itself as well. When it’s all bolted up (using longer bolts) you can’t even tell it’s there.

 

[brasil]

@ Midlife Crises

Thank you for your advise ! Helps a lot.

@ all need a new clutch !! The one from RA is damaged, and the time for a return is over- bought the clutch set last year.

So now I have to decide wether I buy EXEDY FMK 1011. or a MC LEOD 75001 ( Street Level )

both the same ??

 

[brasil]

..while waiting for the new clutch to arrive.... I changed the master cylinder . Went with the GT 500 master, hoping that it was a good idea to go with the GT 500 instead of the Sachs master cylinder

Removal of the pedal assy was o.k. ( more or less ). BUT when it came to install the assy back -with the new master cylinder....it was a pain in the a... nightmare... wanted to burn the car...

but ..... now everything is back again where it belongs to.

 

[Kev555]

Nice Work

 

[brasil]

@ Kev555

Lot a work... if I had known before , what ´s coming towards me... I would have left the clutch where she was...
Did a clutch jo bon my 1995 5.0 ... was a breeze . took about 4 hours or so. easy to work on those cars back in the days. Cable operated clutch fork... one piece DS..

 

[GriffX]

@ Kev555

Lot a work... if I had known before , what ´s coming towards me... I would have left the clutch where she was...
Did a clutch jo bon my 1995 5.0 ... was a breeze . took about 4 hours or so. easy to work on those cars back in the days. Cable operated clutch fork... one piece DS..