Differentials--for corner carving

[smoken1986]

hmmm, well all my parts are starting to add up VERY quickly. the price of the truetrak is still very appealing at $450

I dont do any road racing but I have used the truetrak while its not a bad piece at all if you are going to spend the money get something better, If you want something cheap just upgrade the clutches in the one you have to the carbon ones, it will be just as good as the truetrak and will only cost you 100.00 plus oil and additives..

btw: you can do this yourself and dont have to have the gears reset

 

[05BlackGT]

FWIW, I had a T2R and it disassembled itself after a year.

 

[DusterRT]

FWIW, I had a T2R and it disassembled itself after a year.

Were you SOL or do these have any sort of warranty like the Quaife?

 

[fhlh]

Saw that..but what difference will I see between the two, say, on my drive to work? Will the R be noisy? Am I going to chirp/scrub my tires getting into parking spots? They don't get into details as to *why* they recommend the T2 over the T2R for dual purpose cars without IRS..

It's not a Detroit Locker... so you shouldn't chirp with either of them..

 

[Sam Strano]

I used T2R's for years. In fact since 1999. But since about 2006, I quit using or recommending them because they are eating themselves up. The early units still work, and work well, but anything after about mid-2004 isn't lasting.

I tore up two in a year in my Camaro. And what's worse they don't break--just slowly work less and less well. And I'm not alone. In fact both GM and Fords have had to replace later T2R's where it was never an issue before. Given the amount of metal that is on the magnets, something is eating itself up and clearancing itself on the inside. Can't tell you if it's the case or the gears, but the metal is coming from somewhere.

And here's what's ironic. There are a lot of folks with weak or trashed diffs that don't know it. But here's a hint. If your car has gotten power on loose, the diff is fried. If you suddenly notice wheelspin where you never had it before--your diff is fried.

In the GM stuff we do one of two things. Back to an Auburn Racers (which are available for Ford 28 spline, but not 31), or an Eaton unit with carbon clutches (which is avaiable in 31 spline). I can't recommned a TrueTrac, though I do carry them. The bias ratio just isn't high enough for track/autox use. Fine for a street differential though.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Sam, what do you think about the FRPP Carbon Disk upgrade for the OEM LSD?

I was planning on the True-trac...so you don't recommend it? My ride is dual purposed; DD & weekend autocross racer.

 

[Racer X]

What diff is in the Bullitt? I know it is a LSD, with 3.73's, and I think it has the carbon in it also. Any thoughts?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Yep, the Bullit shares the same rear axle as the GT500...

 

[Racer X]

Right, so what is that considered as? (Name)? How should this unit hold up for road racing?

 

[AutoXRacer]

hmmm, well all my parts are starting to add up VERY quickly. the price of the truetrak is still very appealing at $450

Roush sells them for $350.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Right, so what is that considered as? (Name)? How should this unit hold up for road racing?

I think its the FRPP 3.73 rear axle...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10353

Though for road racing, I don't think it will hold up long term...primarily the LSD.

 

[Sam Strano]

I can't believe Roush is selling a 31 spline TrueTrac for $350... Everyone and their brother is @ $449 and up (I'm @ $449 too, fwiw). Seems their price is the one out of line. I've seen them some places as high as $499....

Carbon clutches don't work any better in terms of bite than "paper" or organics do, but they last longer in a T-lok.

I'm planning on putting an Eaton LSD in my car. It's carbon clutched, but has much heavier springs and therefore more preload than a T-lok can muster. And much like the clamp load on a pressure plate, the more you can load the diff clutches the harder the clutches bite. That unit is $509 and it's proven to put power down really, really well in f-bodies, which have much smaller 7.5" axles and therefore smaller less capable clutches.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So you are basically telling not to bother with the carbon clutches from FRPP?

I guess I'll save my pennies for the True-trac...maybe I should buy it asap before Roush realizes he is under pricing them... lol

 

[SD07GT]

I can't believe Roush is selling a 31 spline TrueTrac for $350... Everyone and their brother is @ $449 and up (I'm @ $449 too, fwiw). Seems their price is the one out of line. I've seen them some places as high as $499....

Carbon clutches don't work any better in terms of bite than "paper" or organics do, but they last longer in a T-lok.

I'm planning on putting an Eaton LSD in my car. It's carbon clutched, but has much heavier springs and therefore more preload than a T-lok can muster. And much like the clamp load on a pressure plate, the more you can load the diff clutches the harder the clutches bite. That unit is $509 and it's proven to put power down really, really well in f-bodies, which have much smaller 7.5" axles and therefore smaller less capable clutches.

The Eaton LSD is what Steeda sells and swears by and uses that in all there road race cars . I asked them about the Torsen units and they told me that about eight years ago they were good when the T1 came out and after that when the T2 came out that ware @ noise was a problem . I thought that T2 were still good but I guess things change !

 

[Sam Strano]

So you are basically telling not to bother with the carbon clutches from FRPP?

I guess I'll save my pennies for the True-trac...maybe I should buy it asap before Roush realizes he is under pricing them... lol

I wouldn't bother with a TrueTrac, they don't have enough bias ratio to really work well.

Would I bother the carbon in a T-lok? Well, it's cheaper than a new differential.... but the only reason I was running that setup was because I had to run a T-lok (not shimmed either) in F-stock. Going to ESP with my Mustang, I'm going to stick something else in there...

I looked at Roush's site... didn't see this $350 TrueTrac on their site. Regardless it's not what I'd use anyway.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Scroll to the bottom of the page...
http://store.roushperformance.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryId=416&fromSearch=1

Sam, if you don't mind, can you describe how the carbon clutch pack reacts exiting a corner?
Maybe compare it to the stock clutch pack? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I guess I'm back to the drawing board with a long term solution with the LSD options...

 

[Sam Strano]

I think that might be for a 28 spline axle... Notice it doesn't say 2005+ up like various other parts there do. That part number must be their's because it's not the TrueTrac number, not even close.

Carbon doesn't react any differently than a organic clutch. It's just a lot tougher and more durable and tolerant of slippage (which is what LSD clutches often do). The Eaton unit is tighter than a Ford diff because they use individual coil springs and plates to apply pre-load vs that hokey S-spring. And there is lot more pre-load on an Eaton. From the ones I've driven, it's going to be my choice.

 

[_M_]

Eaton and TruTrack are the same unit, are they not?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Eaton and TruTrack are the same unit, are they not?

Eaton is the parent company...but Eaton and Detroit are the same... Truetrac is one of their differentials.

 

[_M_]

Eaton is the parent company...but Eaton and Detroit are the same... Truetrac is one of their differentials.

I was just confused by Sams post. In one post he says he wouldnt use truetrac, and in another he said he was going with Eaton.

I have now successfully confused myself