Preparing car for heavy road course duty

[Kaldar142]

Since I'm officially done tracking my car this season, I want to make some improvements to aid in durability/reliability especially since I have a blower now.

First, I am replacing my rear cover with LPW cover and using amsoil gear oil. I will also change my TR6060 oil to amsoil.

I want to switch to a 160* thermostat and upgrade to a fluidyne radiatior.

I want to upgrade to the canton road race oil pan to help prevent oil starvation and lower oil temps.

With that being said, should I look into windage trays and crankshaft scrappers?

Thoughts and opinions?

 

[Sam Strano]

I'd skip the 160 stat, the car won't run 160 on the track anyway (being run way too hard) and on the street you'll get terrible mileage. LPW covers are very nice, I use/sell a good number of them. Last time I tried a 160 stat, the car still ran about 200 on the road course, and ran rich because it never warmed on the street. Any stat you run will be fully open.

Radiator wise we've had good luck with the Mishimoto units. The one for the S197 (non GT500) compares favorably to the Fluidyne (which we also have). Of note the Mishimoto is a 3-row vs. Fluidyne @ 2.

-- Core Size: 495mm x 608mm
-- Rows: 3
-- Inlet: 38mm
-- Outlet: 38mm
-- Core Thickness: 52mm
-- Tank Wall Thickness: 2mm

BeCool (another option) has two direct fit units also, but you'd want/need the bigger of the two with your power. Have those as well.

Pricing wise they are all over the map. Mishimoto is the least expensive, and the only 3-row unit. Fluidyne in the middle, BeCool is most expensive.

 

[EagleStroker]

Slowww , where's my Fore cover? just go to a dry sump and call it a day! If you stick with it as is do a windage tray. I'm not sure that the scraper will clear with your k-member, do a search on here to find the answer it was a fairly recent topic!

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Get a vented hood. Your temps will drop considerably - more than you will see from a radiator upgrade.

I had heat issues in the summer months. I put on a Terminator style hood, and they were eliminated.

 

[Sam Strano]

That's not a bad idea either.....

 

[DusterRT]

Don't forget brake cooling!! Makes a huge difference..I couldn't believe how much of an improvement mine made.

 

[DusterRT]

Get a vented hood. Your temps will drop considerably - more than you will see from a radiator upgrade.

Here's my el-cheapo $40 hood venting solution. A little rough around the edges, but hopefully will make a difference (I did this after the end of my "season" here, will have to check for function next year).

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17857

Also keep in mind a bigger radiator itself will weigh more, plus add 8.3# per gallon of capacity you add..all forward of the front wheels.

 

[Random Asshole]

I'd skip the 160 stat, the car won't run 160 on the track anyway (being run way too hard) and on the street you'll get terrible mileage. LPW covers are very nice, I use/sell a good number of them. Last time I tried a 160 stat, the car still ran about 200 on the road course, and ran rich because it never warmed on the street. Any stat you run will be fully open.

I've wondered about the stat as well and was thinking about bringing the subject up myself. But I've never had an accurate temp reading since I don't have any "real" gauge hooked up, so I couldn't make any justifications. The reason it came to mind is that everything under my hood is alot "blue-er" than I've seen on other stang (or car for that matter) which kinda raised some flags in my mind..

 

[foolio2k4]

The mishimoto is a solid unit. Bolts right up no problems. Definately thicker and heavier than the OEM piece though.
I agree with the Vented Hood idea as well. I remember reading an import article (SORRY) where they vented a miata and gained a couple ponies from it. Also, reducing underhood temps.
Last thing I would suggest, although this is more of a show mod but can be functional as well is the GT500 front. You have a larger front surface area for more air flow. You can use the fog light area as a brake duct or have something similar to the Gt500KR and use the Lower grills as a brake duct.

 

[Kaldar142]

I'd skip the 160 stat, the car won't run 160 on the track anyway (being run way too hard) and on the street you'll get terrible mileage. LPW covers are very nice, I use/sell a good number of them. Last time I tried a 160 stat, the car still ran about 200 on the road course, and ran rich because it never warmed on the street. Any stat you run will be fully open.

Radiator wise we've had good luck with the Mishimoto units. The one for the S197 (non GT500) compares favorably to the Fluidyne (which we also have). Of note the Mishimoto is a 3-row vs. Fluidyne @ 2.

-- Core Size: 495mm x 608mm
-- Rows: 3
-- Inlet: 38mm
-- Outlet: 38mm
-- Core Thickness: 52mm
-- Tank Wall Thickness: 2mm

BeCool (another option) has two direct fit units also, but you'd want/need the bigger of the two with your power. Have those as well.

Pricing wise they are all over the map. Mishimoto is the least expensive, and the only 3-row unit. Fluidyne in the middle, BeCool is most expensive.

OK, I ran a Mishimoto on my WRX so i'll probably run one of those with this then, I'll stick with the stock t-stat for now then.

Slowww , where's my Fore cover? just go to a dry sump and call it a day! If you stick with it as is do a windage tray. I'm not sure that the scraper will clear with your k-member, do a search on here to find the answer it was a fairly recent topic!

Haha, man LPW is so much cheaper! I don't know if i want to play a guessing game seeing if things fit with my watts link or not either

Get a vented hood. Your temps will drop considerably - more than you will see from a radiator upgrade.

I had heat issues in the summer months. I put on a Terminator style hood, and they were eliminated.

I have a steeda race cowl hood

Don't forget brake cooling!! Makes a huge difference..I couldn't believe how much of an improvement mine made.

Believe it or not, my car has NO braking issues... It could be all the weight reduction, or the Stoptech BBK or the DTC-70 brake pads

The mishimoto is a solid unit. Bolts right up no problems. Definately thicker and heavier than the OEM piece though.
I agree with the Vented Hood idea as well. I remember reading an import article (SORRY) where they vented a miata and gained a couple ponies from it. Also, reducing underhood temps.
Last thing I would suggest, although this is more of a show mod but can be functional as well is the GT500 front. You have a larger front surface area for more air flow. You can use the fog light area as a brake duct or have something similar to the Gt500KR and use the Lower grills as a brake duct.

I think my front end flows more than a GT500 front end if not the same, i have the Roush trackpak grille which is fully opened, i also am switching to a CDC aggressive front lip with a APR CF splitter, which should direct A TON of air thru my radiator / FMIC



Any thoughts on the oil pan setups?

 

[Vapour Trails]

Last time I tried a 160 stat, the car still ran about 200 on the road course, and ran rich because it never warmed on the street. Any stat you run will be fully open.

I can vouch for this. The 160* included with my Whipple just makes the engine run cold and chug gas. This is made worse by the fact I live in a cold climate.

Heck, even back in summer when I installed it the engine wouldn't reach normal operation temperature.

 

[Kaldar142]

ok yeah fuck that, my car doesnt even go over 180* during street driving lol

 

[SoundGuyDave]

For *heavy* track usage, the Canton pan (either), oil filter relocate with an FL1A base, oil cooler, and an Accusump. I wouldn't bother with the windage tray or crank scraper right now. Also, run a solid, synthetic 10W40, and fill 1/2qt over the full mark.

As for cooling, the HD radiator is fine, and the Steeda hood kills, but I would be a little cautious of going to a wide-open grille. The FR500S uses a mesh grille that is partially blocked off to prevent over-cooling... I would go mesh, and start blocked off, and gradually reduce the restricted area bit by bit until you find cooling nirvana. With the oil cooler, you may not find that you have ANY cooling issues. I know you have a blower, and that does change things, but going to an oil cooler was good for around a 35* coolant temp reduction, as well.

Accurate gauges (anything but stock!) are strongly indicated. Oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp at a minimum. For you, I would add in boost and fuel pressure, maybe a wideband.

BBK or no, when you REALLY start pushing, you'll begin to cook your brakes. Duct them now!

Other than that, it seems like you've got the bases covered!

 

[Rodeoflyer]

I have a steeda race cowl hood

I would presume that means you don't want to buy ANOTHER one, BUT -

A cowl hood lets air IN - not out. The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. Cowl hoods were used in the old days to force air into carburetors. After that they have been for clearance issues.

Duster's fix is exactly what I would have done if it were an option 2 years ago.

Dave - where did you read/hear about the FR500S grille being blocked off for over-cooling? I would have thought it was more for aero, as these cars are barn doors to begin with. The radiator is only "x" wide. A big open grille just adds drag and lift.

Another point to consider with an aftermarket radiator is the added weight of the radiator itself and added water. That's the spot you want it the least. If changing out the radiator I would bolt on Steeda's lightweight support to minimize it.

 

[DusterRT]

I would presume that means you don't want to buy ANOTHER one, BUT -

A cowl hood lets air IN - not out. The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. Cowl hoods were used in the old days to force air into carburetors. After that they have been for clearance issues.

Exactly. Here's a video of Steeda's race car, you can see the back of the cowl is closed off.

http://www.steedatv.com/play.php?vid=139

Easy test...tape some string on the back edge of the hood and see what happens at speed. I took the seal off the back of my hood, thinking at triple digit speeds there would be enough air coming through the front of the car that it would overcome the high pressure at the base of the windshield..nope, the string still got sucked under the hood.

Now where does all this air go? Right under the car through the bottom of the engine compartment..effectively it makes a high pressure zone under the front end. Bad! You only want as much air going into the engine compartment as necessary.

where did you read/hear about the FR500S grille being blocked off for over-cooling? I would have thought it was more for aero, as these cars are barn doors to begin with. The radiator is only "x" wide. A big open grille just adds drag and lift.

Here's a picture of the service replacement part. It looks like the opening is larger than what a regular production grille, but they don't leave it wide open. I've been lusting after this part for a while and finally snagged one, I should have it next week..I'll get better pictures if anyone wants them.

 

[Kobie]

From the Steeda website about their "Race" hood.

"This original race version is 9lbs lighter than our 307-0012 street hood and features fully functional cowl induction instead of just a single vent for the ultimate improvement in aerodynamics and reduced underhood temperatures. This hood has a aluminum reinforced latch area and is a direct bolt on to the factory hinges. Hood comes in a smooth gelcoat finish for easy painting and comes with windshield washer and factory prop rod provisions.

Steeda's full cowl hood, part number 307-0011, substancially reduces underhood temperatures. As tested by Steeda and confirmed by Steeda's racers. Steeda's hood will maintain temperatures within 5 degrees of ambient temperature versus the stock hood which can allow underhood temperatures to soar to up to 100 degrees above ambient temperature."

So.... what gives??

 

[SoundGuyDave]

It does what it says, and I can confirm the temp differential. Keeping the underhood temps down is a function of bringing in ambient-temp air, however it's done, and whether the air comes in through the grille or through the cowl, that's the factor that drops AIT.

From experience, I think the front-end-lift issue with the cowl induction is being overstated. I've had mine up to well over 130 on MANY different occasions, and can honestly say that I've noticed absolutely no more front-end instability with the race cowl than with the stock hood.

As far as aero under the car from the engine-bay overpressure, a few points: 1) the underbody HAS no aero treatment at all, so you won't develop negative lift no matter what hood you have on the car. 2) the side skirts are far too high off the ground to keep any low pressure area under the car intact. 3) the front aero is non-existant, and even the Steeda race fascia will not generate measurable amounts of downforce. The "splitter" is too high off the ground, and not stiff enough to generate any real pressure on the chassis. 4) reduced IAT will generate more power, period. I'll take the couple of horses over the potential 0.004lbs of extra downforce from a slightly lower underbody pressure.

Matt: I honestly don't remember where I read that, but it was either a Miller Challenge board, or from conversations with one of the vendors. OTOH, Ford also released a revised radiator side-panel set, so at that point, the grille blanking may be about reducing pressure ahead of the radiator, which could cut both ways.

 

[Kaldar142]

For *heavy* track usage, the Canton pan (either), oil filter relocate with an FL1A base, oil cooler, and an Accusump. I wouldn't bother with the windage tray or crank scraper right now. Also, run a solid, synthetic 10W40, and fill 1/2qt over the full mark.

As for cooling, the HD radiator is fine, and the Steeda hood kills, but I would be a little cautious of going to a wide-open grille. The FR500S uses a mesh grille that is partially blocked off to prevent over-cooling... I would go mesh, and start blocked off, and gradually reduce the restricted area bit by bit until you find cooling nirvana. With the oil cooler, you may not find that you have ANY cooling issues. I know you have a blower, and that does change things, but going to an oil cooler was good for around a 35* coolant temp reduction, as well.

Accurate gauges (anything but stock!) are strongly indicated. Oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp at a minimum. For you, I would add in boost and fuel pressure, maybe a wideband.

BBK or no, when you REALLY start pushing, you'll begin to cook your brakes. Duct them now!

Other than that, it seems like you've got the bases covered!

I have boost / oil temp / oil pres / water temp and i have an A/F gauge but its not hooked up yet.

I'm wondering if i should try out an oil cooler or not, my car runs pretty cool on street and track... with a cowl hood, upraded oil pan and radiator i'm wondering if i should even get an oil cooler or see how my car performs first... its not like i can't stop my car from being overheated, i would just dial it back a bit if things get too hot.

Even though i had no brake issues in the past, i'll get some cooling ducts... but i'm not really sure where to put them.

I have been running 10W40 amsoil in the car when i would track it with .5 overfilled, like you had told me a few months ago




Do you think running 100 octane at the track would be any benefit? I don't mind paying the extra $$$ if it will help keep my car just a bit safer.

 

[Jaylee]

The FR500 grille is about the best looking grille you can put on a GT. I just can not justify the price.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

If you're running the stock lower grille, here's a walk-through that I wrote a while ago on installing the inlets...

http://forums.themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=458455

As long as your temps are under control, then there's no reason to add any complexity to the system. If possible, I would think about an Accusump, though, to keep the motor alive if you corner hard enough to slosh the oil away from the pickup. You'd be surprised just how much of the oil is up in the motor, and not in the pan at higher RPMs! On a long, hard sweeper, you may run into trouble. Or not. With the cooler, I'm essentially set up for endurance-level racing, which happens with some of the groups I instruct with, where I can wind up doing back-to-back-to-back sessions on occasion. Absolutely no benefit doing the typical TT 10-15 minute sessions.

I don't think that the 100 octane fuel will help you any, to be honest, as long as you have a good safe tune for the fuel you're using now.