boosted carving

[marksti]

I found a oil cooler at Moss Muscle/Mustang

 

[Brian W.]

we do a lot of drift cars, and as you can imagine the steering fluid gets pretty hot and boils in most of them on a hot day at the track. We use either an automatic trans cooler to stay cheap(just clamp it in line) or use a setrab valve spring cooler sized core(maybe a little bigger like a 110) and run -6an line to keep everything nice.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Well I am 7 weeks from the 2-day HPDE event. This is what I have in the works to reduce the chance of a catastrophic failure.

• Changed pulley from 3.625 to 3.875", reducing boost to 7-8 psi. I estimate about 400-410 whp.
• Talked to my tuner and had him send me a revised tune with more commanded fuel to keep cylinder temps down
• Will be relocating the IAT sensor to the whipple manifold
• Run 94 octane gas with mild timing, 17 degrees max at WOT
• Roush grill (9-bar)

I have my climate working in my favor, the average high for May 1 & 2 is 16C (60 F). Finally, at this event they only race 5 laps at time, about 7-8 minutes of racing.
And if all of that fails, I do have a built shortblock waiting in my basement .

 

[Sleeper_08]

Good luck. I'm running the Roushcharger which is only 5 lb boost and dumps lots of fuel in at the top end. I also run 94 octane whenever possible at the track. My longest runs are up to 30 minutes.

So far no problems and hopefully I won't have to use the Roush warranty.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Good luck. I'm running the Roushcharger which is only 5 lb boost and dumps lots of fuel in at the top end. I also run 94 octane whenever possible at the track. My longest runs are up to 30 minutes.

So far no problems and hopefully I won't have to use the Roush warranty.

The fact that you have had so many long sessions on track gives me confidence that I shouldn't run into any problems.

It would be interesting to know how many of these exploded 3Vs had taken precautions. AFAIK, all the SC kits for 3V engines don't include instructions on relocating the IAT sensor. The stock location of the IAT sensor is likely to be cool while at high speed on a track, while the manifold would be very hot.

I see relocating the IAT sensor to location where it can read the heat soak and allow the PCM to do it's job of pulling timing as likely the most important step to preventing detonation. The power produced by mild boost should not be enough to break a rod, as long a detonation is kept in check.

 

[Sleeper_08]

The Roush kit includes the relocation of the IAT sensor and a new sensor as well as their own map for the ECM.

 

[Vapour Trails]

The Roush kit includes the relocation of the IAT sensor and a new sensor as well as their own map for the ECM.

That's good, now why Whipple, KB, Vortech, Paxton and the others don't is a mystery.

With my whipple, all they would have needed to do is drill a hole in the manifold and include the $25 sensor. If only I would have known when I was installing the blower.

 

[marksti]

I would invest in a good radiator if you don't have one...even tho it doesn't seem like you'll be doing real HARDCORE racing...still better to be safe

 

[ArizonaGT]

This is the one I was thinking of...

Getting one soon?

Let me know what you have to do in order to get it to fit, and what the install procedure is.

FRPP says it will fit the '05-10 Mustang "with modifications".

I'm wondering if it will clear the AC condenser on a street car.

 

[Philostang]

Getting one soon?

Let me know what you have to do in order to get it to fit, and what the install procedure is.

FRPP says it will fit the '05-10 Mustang "with modifications".

I can't wait to see this one...

You may have to give Dave some time to write it up.

 

[DusterRT]

Doesn't it just replace the non-finned loop that goes in front of the radiator/condenser? I don't see how it could be very complicated, might just boil down to splicing in to existing lines.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Philostang: What are you trying to say, that I'm a bit verbose?

Okay, yes, I did order one, and I did install it... All in all, not terribly bad for a race piece, but there were NO instructions at all included, and FRPP was less than helpful, so I wound up doing my own engineering on the project.

Here's what I can bring to the table:

Hydraulically, it is extremely simple, you just replace the existing unit with this one, either cutting the factory lines at the crimp, or running 9.5mm (3/8") power steering hose from scratch. Both are simple, and I ran new lines, so that they would all play nice with the oil system lines I have running to the front of the car in that area. Due to packaging constraints, I wound up mounting mine high, right behind the grille, and not low or behind the bumper beam. That puts the inlet and outlet barbs right in the stock location, HOWEVER, there is nothing to mount the cooler to in that area! Even in different locations, I couldn't see a simple mount with the AC condenser in place, as mine is (cool air on a hot grid is a thing of beauty!).

I wound up using a piece of 3/4"x3/4"x1/8" aluminum "L" stock spanning across the radiator opening behind the grille, and fabbing up three L-brackets from 1/16 steel. First bracket is from the new support bar to the cooler bracket towards the middle, and I simply bolted the cooler at the driver's side (with the barbs) right to the support bar. The other two brackets connected the ends of the support bar to the radiator support core, where there are some very convenient holes pre-drilled from the factory! These brackets have two holes in them on the vertical leg, and at the top, bend 90* towards the middle of the car, where they bolt to the aluminum support. Simple to fabricate.

Total materials cost (excluding cooler): $31.00
Hose, fluid, and hose clamps: $12.00
Aluminum stock: $9.00
Steel stock to fabricate from (8"x20" sheet) $10.00

Total time: 9.0 hours
Measuring and fabricating aluminum support: 1.0
Measuring and fabricating L-brackets: 1.5
Studying, test-fitting, pondering, cursing, calling FRPP, receiving no answer, measuring, re-measuring, re-re-measuring: 6.5

I'll post pix to save everybody the 6.5 hours... Honestly, in terms of difficulty, from 1-10, with 1 being adding gas, and 10 being rebuilding a trans, this is a solid 2 if you have fab skills of ANY sort, or a 4 if you don't...

 

[Vapour Trails]

Philostang: What are you trying to say, that I'm a bit verbose?

Nah, he's just saying your really long winded.

J/K man, you are good contributor for sure.

 

[Philostang]

Oh, hell no. I don't think that at all. If there's anyone who appreciates a long and careful explanation, it's me (besides, I'm guilty of the same).

I just remember looking at "the aftermath" mid-project and thinking, man that's a lot of work for such an apparently simple part. Didn't you end up draining the radiator, or am I thinking of another fun project...ah yes, that was the bolt that backed out, no?

I think I'm crossing my wires here. Sorry to raise old wounds.

Best,
-j

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Oh, hell no. I don't think that at all. If there's anyone who appreciates a long and careful explanation, it's me (besides, I'm guilty of the same).

I just remember looking at "the aftermath" mid-project and thinking, man that's a lot of work for such an apparently simple part. Didn't you end up draining the radiator, or am I thinking of another fun project...ah yes, that was the bolt that backed out, no?

I think I'm crossing my wires here. Sorry to raise old wounds.

Best,
-j

Actually, I pulled the radiator... That had more than one purpose, so I can't blame it all on the fab work for the P/S cooler, although I did try to see about fitting it between the condensor and the radiator (no chance!)... I had to drain things so that I could go back to distilled water and water wetter, but yes, the main thing was the backed-out water pump bolt... That, and cleaning up the last of the oil from the screwed oil cooler from that little "off" at Blackhawk that you had a front row seat for... No old wounds, just part of the deal, really. The P/S cooler itself, from scratch, really wasn't that bad, it was everything else going on. I started the "build" season with a 10-point, single-spaced, 3-page "to do" list, and now I'm down to less than one page. The grille is shipped, and I have tracking data that indicates delivery on Thursday. After that, it's just the hoopla surrounding the coilovers, then passing emissions, and then finally lettering-up for the first competition event at Gateway. Probably be running plain paint for Putnam, but that gives me a week to get the numbers/letters and sponsor decals on as straight as my crossed-eyes can get them. Rat Racing Graphics absolutely ROCKS, by the way!

 

[ArizonaGT]

in for pics

and pics of graphics

 

[SoundGuyDave]

The pix...

Okay, here we go... bought a new cheapie digital cam for these, so it's time for fun...

First up, the mounted cooler, sans grille:

The black bar is the angle-aluminum, and you can see the three brackets that I fabbed to mount it to the chassis. The holes on the sides are factory. Oh, I forgot, I had to relocate the horn to the passenger side, under the headlight bucket. Another bracket, but again no big deal: the wiring even reached!

Only "odd" thing is the clearance between the cooler and the fascia. As you can see below, it's a bit tight, so I had to cut off the one mounting tab for the grille to clear the cooler:

The blue cylinder below is the Accusump, which is mounted behind the bumper beam.

Finally, a finished shot, showing the grille on the car, and just how transparent it really is... Also, very light weight. The grille itself weighs around 5lbs!

MAXIMUM possible airflow through there... as you can see, my lower grille is pretty well plugged up with brake duct inlets, so... I need to develop a trim piece to pretty up the corners of the lower grille, and probably (hopefully!) some blockoffs for the edges of the upper grille to tune the airflow into the radiator and engine bay.

Oh, and just for Arizona GT, a teaser of some of the graphics...

 

[ArizonaGT]

Dave, I'll see your graphics and raise you this, which I found at the track this weekend:

 

[Marc s]

Looks good Dave, nice job!

I also like the quick license plate removal hardware. J/K!

What does your car weigh?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Looks good Dave, nice job!

I also like the quick license plate removal hardware. J/K!

What does your car weigh?

Thanks, and living in a front-plate state sucks...

My car weighs WAYYYY too much to start with! I'll scale at the first event this season, but last season it was 3691 with full fuel and all 160lbs of me in it. I'm allowed to get down to 3450, so I have a way to go... New lighter wheels, a lighter fascia (stock) and grille are a start but it'll take some gutting to get down to minimum weight.