Brake Bleed Question

RedTrackRat

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I'm new here and new to the S197 but I've road raced and tracked cars for 20 years. Gravity bleed is the best way to get the job done. It takes patience but works great. I just changed the fluid in my '07 prior to a track event. Use a bleed bottle and hose, crack each fitting, nearest first and let it drain while you sit back and have a cool drink. Since you changed your fluid completely each season (didn't you?) you only need to drain a few ounces from each caliper to get the fresh, unheated fluid into the caliper. If you faded the brakes in a session OR you heat soaked the system by holding the pedal down while trying to leave the track, you need to bleed. Otherwise, simple precautionary bleeding at the end of each track day goes a long way towards preventing really bad stuff.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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Sleeper, To the best of my understanding you do want to bleed both and you will want to start with the most outer one.

< Correct - bleed the outer one first then the inside one >

In my Z06 i was having CONSTANT brake issues.... Not only was i blowing through pads and rotors, but i was bleeding my brakes every time i changed my pads, which was as much as twice a weekend..... I've boiled ATE super blue and motul RBF600...

< Lets plan a trip to VIR this Fall so I can spend some time with you and go over some braking techniques for the Corvette that will help resolve these issues - I've been tracking mine for five years and provide instruction. Since you're local, we can also meet at a NVMC club meeting and talk over a beer. Just let me know. >

Now I run SS lines, carbotech XP12/10, 2 piece rotors, SRF & stock calipers.

This combo worked great but the pads only last me 3 days until they are down to the backing plates. Not to mention i've completely melted the dust boots, destroyed the caliper pistons and the paint has bubbled off the calipers in quite a few areas. O_O.

< I think I can definitely help you with this. The equipment you have is fine and will get you through an entire weekend without issue. >

I've never had an issue with a speed bleeder - never - on all the vehicles I've taken to road courses over the years. Can they fail, sure - just as anything else that is mechanical, but I have not seen it to include friends I drive with that use them.
 

ArizonaGT

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Sleeper,
To the best of my understanding you do want to bleed both and you will want to start with the most outer one.


Its nice having a BBK with the right setup at the track... makes all the difference IMO.

In my Z06 i was having CONSTANT brake issues, the car is too fast (or maybe i'm too fast) for the stock rotors / calipers IMO. Not only was i blowing through pads and rotors, but i was bleeding my brakes every time i changed my pads, which was as much as twice a weekend..... I've boiled ATE super blue and motul RBF600... Now i run Castrol SRF with no issues, but at $80 it better be the shit. LOL

Now I run SS lines, carbotech XP12/10, 2 piece rotors, SRF & stock calipers.

This combo worked great but the pads only last me 3 days until they are down to the backing plates. Not to mention i've completely melted the dust boots, destroyed the caliper pistons and the paint has bubbled off the calipers in quite a few areas. O_O

On the mustang i run Stoptech ST40 with DTC 70 / 60, 2 piece rotors, SS lines, castrol SRF and have no issues with it, granted its not as fast as the Z06 though. Neither cars have brake cooling ducts, i KNOW for a fact i would greatly benefit from the use of ducts, i'm so tired of destroying brakes lol

I have no personal experience with speed bleeders, but i've been steered away from them by quite a few reputable sources. I always have a few people with me anyways, so no need for them.

The Z06 has brake ducts on all 4 corners from the factory...
 

ArizonaGT

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And to echo the comments of other users here, with the stock calipers I would bleed 2x per track day...once in the morning and once around lunch. If you use a clear bleed hose, you can see all the junk that comes out of the fluid passage--it's nasty.

Now w/ the GT500 fronts, I only bleed in the morning before the start of each track day, and typically the bleed is like 1-2 pumps per bleeder.

I've used both Earl's and Russell brand speed bleeders, IMO the Russel ones are superior as the "cones" on the Earl's ones seem to deform very easily or stick if you tighten the bleeder down too much (gotta use kid gloves on these things).
 

Kaldar142

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The Z06 has brake ducts on all 4 corners from the factory...


Have you seen the ducts? they are quite a joke... they dont even come close to the rotor and/or caliper. Air will always take the path of least resistance, so it just ends up blowing around. Not very efficient



< I think I can definitely help you with this. The equipment you have is fine and will get you through an entire weekend without issue. >

OK, sounds good man just right now the car is INOP due to destroyed rotors & and no pads left. I'll get it back up soon though, just more money o_O
 

Gray Ghost GT

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You are probably using the OEM 6 brake "paddlets" on your C6 Z06, which are OK, but... Carbotech now sells a 1 piece brake pad for the stock Z06 calipers and you get get them in any compound, e.g., XP12, XP10, etc. Give them a call before you install replacement brake "paddlets". You will be glad you did! I forgot to mention earlier - if you are running with the Active Handling (AH) and Traction Control (TC) turned ON, you will go through a set of pads faster than you would if you turned AH/TC off. But its probably a good to to leave them on until you're comfortable with the Z06 at speed, so give yourself some time.
 
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Kaldar142

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Actually i have quite a few track days with the Z06 now, about 8 now.

I use the carbotech 1 piece Xp12/10 with 2pc rotors, also run with TCS/AH off as well. o_O
 

foolio2k4

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Nifty things i noticed when i got to see a porsche gt3 up on a lift. I noticed that they have NACA duct looking thingy that channels the air up and spreads near the suspension/brakes. Very similar to what the KR splitter has. At the back they have a flat undertray and another naca duct that funnels air to the rear brakes.



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