Thoughts on Weapon XCOP?

Redfire

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Pete,

I have my plugs gapped at .020 and don't have any spark issues but not all cars are alike. If I run the A/F below 10.8 or so I get blowout but in the 11's it is happy. I have run up to 28psi without any blowout issues. I recently thought I had blowout issues but my wide band sensor was going bad and I had the car really rich causing problems. I replaced the sensor, leaned it out and all is well.
 

05yellowgt

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Which plugs are you running Will? Not sure how, but I totally forgot about your combo in the E85/98 S197 game.
 

ChevyKiller

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Thanks for all the responses guys , makes my decision easier . :beerchug2:

Lito , Ive tried Brisk -2s they work great on the Dyno and at the track for a few passes but foul up fast .
Now that Im on E85 they may not foul up as fast but there still like 160.00 for them which is ridiculous for plugs that will only be good for a week .
Besides E85 runs cool already so going even coolder may not be the solution. Seems to me like its more of a cylinder pressure deal. Wants to blow out the spark .
My buddy Manny said to gap them down to .018 to .015 . Ive heard of a few Buick guys down here running high boost in the mid 30s doing the same seems to work. Ill give it a try since thats the most economical solution . If it doesn't work then its time for ported heads, but Ill stick to the stock cams or make a set of custom grinds with factory specs just more lift on the exhaust and intake .



Pete

Pete - that is a tuning issue that can be worked out in the tune. I used to foul plugs left and right (every brand) before greg started tuning my car and the BS3. Now, I have yet to foul a plug and use the brisk -2 only. In fact, I have only changed them once in the last 30 passes or so and they looked fine and kept the old ones as spares. I gap them at .018 for my set-up

I know it's some coin, but in addition to some good flowing heads and the right cam, a good intake on top and you will wake your car up more than you can imagine. Just be careful when getting into high flow though and don't neglect the other little important things too - the right springs are also very important IMO.
 

TurboPete

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Guys , thanks for all the responses , alot of well thought out responses help your all my Hero's , hahahah.
No seriously thanks guys. Im going to try just the plugs, and gap them down as Litto , Mark , and Will metioned . The only thing is Idle quality really sucks when gapped down so far.
I should be able to do some testing this weekend with the new plugs , if that doesn't work Ill try the BAS seemed to help on a friends car , and is alot cheaper then Heads and Cam set up .
I had my engine builder give me a qoute already for some Bad Azz Heads and cam turn key , so thats in the back burner .
Like I said before Id really rather keep my stock heads and cam set up, and see how quick it will go , If I can get it in the 9.60s Ill be happy.

Hey Will how much timing are you commanding at 27 psi's?
Im at 24* @ 23 psi's not sure if thats alot on E85 with that much boost. Someone also told me that I should try more timing?

Pete
 

Redfire

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Which plugs are you running Will? Not sure how, but I totally forgot about your combo in the E85/98 S197 game.

I am using the HTO's still

Hey Will how much timing are you commanding at 27 psi's?
Im at 24* @ 23 psi's not sure if thats alot on E85 with that much boost. Someone also told me that I should try more timing?

Pete

I am running 15 degrees at WOT currently. I put a big bore stock stroke engine in in the spring and have kept the timing down as I increased the compression with this engine. With the old .020 over stroked engine I ran as much as 17 degrees at peak torque and added timing to 27 degrees at the end of the run.
 

05yellowgt

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11.8 has been the sweet spot for power on my car. What kind of compression are you running on your motor. I've got 9.3 on mine. I've not tried gapping below 0.25 but my idle is dead nuts perfect at that gap.

As far as the timing, how do your plugs look? Mine are just about perfect after a run with 23* at my current boost level.
 
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TurboPete

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As Will stated all engines work a little different , alot has to do with were you live I guess and surrounding temps /air.
My motor is 8.7.1. and I run 19/20* at peak and 24* at the end of my run . Ive been running the HT0 fora very long time never really had issues before but since I started to turn up the boost and more then anything timing it seems to be acting up .
I ordered the BAS will get it in a day or two but I will try the Brisk Plugs 1st .

Thanks , Ill post up my results over the weekend.


Pete
 

ChevyKiller

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For you turbo guys running big boost, let me give you some knowledge I learned through the years...

From the mouth of the great John Mahovitz...

"Big boost modular motors are prone to be dangerous when lean. What most people think is lean is very wrong. There is a lot of talk about mid 11's and an a/f ratio over 11.0 is actually very lean on a modular motor making over 22 psi - especially on a turbo car. The a/f ratio with a 25 psi set-up should actually be in the 10.5 range. On my motors and builds, I try to average around 10.0 a/f"

I run about 10.2 a/f on my car BTW.

Here is another little tidbit that some of you may find interesting...

When I talked to whom I consider the 'experts' in the turbo world... guys like John Mahovitz, John Urist, Rich Groh, Tim Lynch, our own Wheeler, etc, etc

Just about every single one of them agreed that turbo cars are unique in that they don't require a lot of timing - at least not until you get in the maxing out the boost range of your set-up. It is always better to just up the boost than to add timing. You shouldn't worry about timing advances until you have maxed out your boost potential of your set-up. You have to remember that turbos hit like nitrous - very hard - and it is imperative that you make sure your timing is low during that rpm band where the turbos really 'hit'.

With turbos, you really want to ramp the timing in, then ramp the timing out, and then ramp it back in again type model.

On my car, I run max 12º of timing BTW.

Pete:

That BAS is not going to do shit. Better and cheaper is to simply upgrade your cop wires to 14 gauge wire. You also talked about idle issues when you gap down the plugs - that is completely normal and another thing to work out easily in the tune. You will find that you have to play with it and the best place is at the track with a laptop cause you will find that when you add more fuel to help with lean idle, then at 4500 rpm, you may get a fat spike and so on and so forth. But believe me, it can all be dialed in within the tune and once you get it set - it will run perfect at idle and through all power bands.

What fuel system do you have on your car? Having a returnless system no matter how many pumps is a headache when you start getting into bigger power levels.
 
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Wicked97

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I agree that the BAS isnt going to help your situation. Also the E85 is much easier on the plugs then say C-16, Your best bet is going to be the twin DIS-4 boxes and Brisk plugs. The MSD is also going to help the brisk plugs last quite a bit longer.
 

ChevyKiller

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I agree that the BAS isnt going to help your situation. Also the E85 is much easier on the plugs then say C-16, Your best bet is going to be the twin DIS-4 boxes and Brisk plugs. The MSD is also going to help the brisk plugs last quite a bit longer.

yep! Just go to a BS3 now Pete - you know you are heading there anyway...lol
 

Redfire

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11.8 has been the sweet spot for power on my car. What kind of compression are you running on your motor. I've got 9.3 on mine. I've not tried gapping below 0.25 but my idle is dead nuts perfect at that gap.

As far as the timing, how do your plugs look? Mine are just about perfect after a run with 23* at my current boost level.


The compression is just over 10

As for the gap I don't have any idle issues but once again every car will react a bit differently to changes.

The plug looks very clean with the Ethanol. I have not ever seen any signs of detonation even with the old engine.
 

TurboPete

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For you turbo guys running big boost, let me give you some knowledge I learned through the years...

From the mouth of the great John Mahovitz...

"Big boost modular motors are prone to be dangerous when lean. What most people think is lean is very wrong. There is a lot of talk about mid 11's and an a/f ratio over 11.0 is actually very lean on a modular motor making over 22 psi - especially on a turbo car. The a/f ratio with a 25 psi set-up should actually be in the 10.5 range. On my motors and builds, I try to average around 10.0 a/f"

Mark Ive been doing this for 2 years with my car , I have always preached the same thing . Something I learned a long time ago from My Pro Racing Buddies.
Thats why I built the motor 8.7.1 not higher compression like most others.
When running c16 I only had 16* of timing , just would run alot more boost and a/f was typically around 10.80 to 11.20 .
Once we made the switch to E85 the a/f and timing changes alot .
We ran the car same boost 23 and left the timing were it was and b/c of the cooler fuel it was way fat 9.60 a/f . Car ran like ass and didn't make as much power. E85 needs timing and alot of fuel , we started to add timing and the motor responded. Every time we added timing it made more power . We had to stop b/c it started blowing out spark , hence the situation we are dealing with now. Before on c16 with 23 psi's and the HTO's gapped at .026 no problem would pull clean , now E85 same boost same gap alot more timing a/f around 11.6 spark goes out . You can see it puff out the exhaust at 5400 rpm.
We made a pull with the a/f in the 10.80s and it lost 54 hp so we know it has to be a spark issue.
The car is still 100% street ass heavy nothing removed other then a K-member now, so I dont want to start hacking the harness or going to a different ignition type.
If I do that its b/c a bigger motor , turbo and heads and cam are going in the car at that point will be at a different level more RACE then Street.

What fuel system do you have on your car? Having a returnless system no matter how many pumps is a headache when you start getting into bigger power levels.


Mark Ive had the return style fuel hat since it was 1st available . I was on the phone with Fore and Lethal, so much that when Jared got the 1st kits I went to Lethal to pick it up the day after.



yep! Just go to a BS3 now Pete - you know you are heading there anyway...lol


Hahahahahah I know , I know . Just trying to push the envelope a little more with stock heads and cams . Believe me when I go to a 323ci ported heads and cams , Ill upgrade to a Billet 88mmbb then Ill get the BS3.

Everyone has made very good points , but I want to see if I can go a little further with this set up .
Im a Big Fan of BS3 , but for my current set up and level dont want to change yet.
Eric also has good point, but If I were to go that route between all the expenses Id rather go with the BS3. Just not ready to make the jump yet.

:thumb2::beerchug2::beer:
 
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ChevyKiller

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Mark Ive been doing this for 2 years with my car , I have always preached the same thing . Something I learned a long time ago from My Pro Racing Buddies.
Thats why I built the motor 8.7.1 not higher compression like most others.
When running c16 I only had 16* of timing , just would run alot more boost and a/f was typically around 10.80 to 11.20 .
Once we made the switch to E85 the a/f and timing changes alot .
We ran the car same boost 23 and left the timing were it was and b/c of the cooler fuel it was way fat 9.60 a/f . Car ran like ass and didn't make as much power. E85 needs timing and alot of fuel , we started to add timing and the motor responded. Every time we added timing it made more power . We had to stop b/c it started blowing out spark , hence the situation we are dealing with now. Before on c16 with 23 psi's and the HTO's gapped at .026 no problem would pull clean , now E85 same boost same gap alot more timing a/f around 11.6 spark goes out . You can see it puff out the exhaust at 5400 rpm.
We made a pull with the a/f in the 10.80s and it lost 54 hp so we know it has to be a spark issue.
The car is still 100% street ass heavy nothing removed other then a K-member now, so I dont want to start hacking the harness or going to a different ignition type.
If I do that its b/c a bigger motor , turbo and heads and cam are going in the car at that point will be at a different level more RACE then Street.

Sure sounds like the gap and your stock coil wires to me. Before anything else pete, I would simply try the brisk -2 gapped at .018 and swap your coil wires to 14 gauge and just those little things may surprise you.

Obviously, the E85 is the new agent in the equation, but from what you're saying, I can't believe you weren't blowing out spark earlier with that big of a gap - even on the HTO's. The brisk are great plugs and you really do need that cold range of the -2's - but you really do have to gap them tight and you have to play around with the tune cause the idle and wot will be completely different fuel trims - I promise you that - but I really think you are just a gap, coil wires, and tune away from solving your issue.
 

TurboPete

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Sure sounds like the gap and your stock coil wires to me. Before anything else pete, I would simply try the brisk -2 gapped at .018 and swap your coil wires to 14 gauge and just those little things may surprise you.

Obviously, the E85 is the new agent in the equation, but from what you're saying, I can't believe you weren't blowing out spark earlier with that big of a gap - even on the HTO's. The brisk are great plugs and you really do need that cold range of the -2's - but you really do have to gap them tight and you have to play around with the tune cause the idle and wot will be completely different fuel trims - I promise you that - but I really think you are just a gap, coil wires, and tune away from solving your issue.


Thanks Mark , I like the idea of 14 gauge coil wires. Will try the plugs 1st picking them up on Friday so Im testing Saturday or maybe going to Immokolee Raceway for some 1/8th mile hits.


Pete
 

Wicked97

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The upgraded Coil Wires are worth something. With justins 05 we were making 1000 to the dyno with no MSD. We upgraded coil wires and hooked it to a relay to get straight battery power. It would not blow out the brisk plugs, but we did have to change them on the regular. C16 is a spark plug killer!!!

The BS3 is the best way to go but its not for every one.

Oh and i would not run HTO plugs in your car they are way too hot.
 

TurboPete

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The upgraded Coil Wires are worth something. With justins 05 we were making 1000 to the dyno with no MSD. We upgraded coil wires and hooked it to a relay to get straight battery power. It would not blow out the brisk plugs, but we did have to change them on the regular. C16 is a spark plug killer!!!

The BS3 is the best way to go but its not for every one.

Oh and i would not run HTO plugs in your car they are way too hot.


Thanks Guys , will Update on Saturday or Sunday.


Pete
 

05stroker

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The upgraded Coil Wires are worth something. With justins 05 we were making 1000 to the dyno with no MSD. We upgraded coil wires and hooked it to a relay to get straight battery power. It would not blow out the brisk plugs, but we did have to change them on the regular. C16 is a spark plug killer!!!

The BS3 is the best way to go but its not for every one.

Oh and i would not run HTO plugs in your car they are way too hot.
Interesting . What gage wire did you run to the COPs and what size relay ? Do you have any pics or diagrams of the setup ? What heat range Brisks are you running ?
 
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