Steeda Adjustable Coilover suspension tuning

Rubrignitz

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So when are you going to order the Koni Yellows? :) :)

Probably next month. I'm tapped this month after spending $550 on a new exhaust setup. Along with all the other bills I can't seem to get out from under!! Guess I can't complain too much.
 

SD07GT

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i like how the front feels with 225lb springs.
i'm thinking i should go 175lb in the back..
but on your note, Steeda doesn't even supply springs stiffer than 250lb for their coilover suspension :S

They only list spring rates for the slow guys (lol) ...they have what ever rate you want ...they can oreder anything from Hypercoil ..you guys kill me on here.
 

Sleeper_08

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Probably next month. I'm tapped this month after spending $550 on a new exhaust setup. Along with all the other bills I can't seem to get out from under!! Guess I can't complain too much.

Tell me about it!

As it was cold and rainy yesterday I didn't go for what was planned to be my last track day of the season and my bank account is happier but I'm not. :(

Reminds me of the comment I overheard at the Porsche Rennsport reunion from a woman on a cell phone - "Oh he's out on the track spending the kids inheritance" :)
 

Sam Strano

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They only list spring rates for the slow guys (lol) ...they have what ever rate you want ...they can oreder anything from Hypercoil ..you guys kill me on here.

I can also order any rear spring you want.
 

almost heaven

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Except for the Strano endlinks on the front, I have all Steeda gear on my car. I asked Gus from Steeda to help me set it up for autocross primarily, although it sometimes sees the road race track as well as the street. He recommended 225 lb springs in the front and 175 lb springs in the back. I'm far from an expert, but my car feels perfect.

I start with the d-spec dampers and sway bars in neutral position, and tweak from there based on under and oversteer, and other effects and conditions (temperature, tire width and compound, etc). Hard to do that trial and error unless you're on some type of a "course", however.

For "planting" the rear, during daily driving or other times, the LCAs (i have the ones with spherical bearings) and competition upper 3rd link made a huge impact.
 

908ssp

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You know regaurdless of the spring the wieght at the tire is the same [within normal constrants]. Our cars have aproximatly 1000lbs on each front tire and 750 lbs on each rear tire. That means that the spring whether is is a 200 lb spring or a 500 lb spring is supporting approximately 750 lbs at the rear, which means it collapses in its travel to a point where the spring is bearing 750 lbs. A 200 lb spring will collapse approximately 3.5 inches at 750 lbs and 500 lbs spring will collapse approximately 1.5". So depending on the free length [among other things] of the spring both cars will sit at the same ride height. Now a 200 lbs spring car will move an additional inch with additional 200 lbs and the 500 lb spring will move an additional inch with a 500 lb load. Anyway if you can follow that and it isn't easy you can see that it is indeed possible though probably not optimal for the same car to have widely divergent spring rates.
 

Pony DNA

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Those of you running the Steeda adjustable coilover suspension
what springs rates have you picked, and what did you set the tokico shocks/struts to?
it'd be nice to know the weight of your car too, to better judge the spring rating..

starting with me.. i got 225lb springs all around, and i absolutely hate the rear..
car tends to bounce and jump over every road imperfection regardless how soft/hard i set the shocks.
i'll be weighing the car soon on all 4 corners and look into swapping out the rear springs

Hi G.T,

I've been playing with the Steeda coilovers since they came out. The internals AFAIK are the same as normal D-Spec S197 struts and as such will have the same limitations as far as spring rates they work well with. You can't really use more than about a 350-375lb spring on the front colivers because there is not enough damper force to control a 400lb spring well. I've never reached the limits of the rear dampers because any rate much over about 250lb/in has the axle bouncing all over the road due to the particular weight of the rear axle, wheels and tires.

In your case you simply have too much rear spring rate compared to the front spring rate and this is making your car bounce over the road due to harmonic interaction between the front and rear suspension from many different factors like damper force, sprung and unsprung weights, wheel base etc. To tame this bounce you need to get springs that do not cause these reactions, reduce your rear spring rate!

The Steeda Sport springs are 225lb in front and 165lb at the rear and Steeda's Race springs are 250lb in front and 175lb out back. The Sport and Race springs are both linear rate springs. I found the Race springs to be a bit soft for agressive street driving and the Sport springs even more so. But for a reasonable handling and riding street car suspension the regular Steeda Race springs with conventional D-Spec struts or Steeda coilovers if you don't go too low are a very reasonable setup.

FYI, Steeda actually did the developement work for the D-Spec damper rates for Tokico on this car using their own production springs so you know they will work well with each other. You already have two pairs of 2.5" I.D. 10" 225lb/in springs and if you are O.K. with the front rate I suggest that you buy a set of Hyperco 2.5" I.D. 10" 185lb/in springs for the rear axle. You can buy them from Steeda or order them from about 1,000 race suppliers on the internet for about $60 or so each. Maximum Motorsports carries them and usually has them in stock ready to ship.

Just be aware that using these modest spring rates means that you cannot lower the car much and still retain a good ride. The S197 chassis likes to be low on the race track and with much higher spring rates works very well. But you are driving a street car no matter what you want to think so if steering feel, front grip and ride are important to you don't reduce ride height more than an inch from stock or stuff happens to the geometry that is less than optimum. The car will bottom out excessively if you reduce your ride height more than an inch on either end, this is what causes the ride issues almost everyone has but does not quite recognize.

Also note that like many racing coilovers the springs will not be seated on the spring seats if you get airborne if you set your ride height at a reduced ride height due to the increased spring rate and reduced spring compression. This is less of a problem for a race car because the damper tech can just stuff a few droop limiters inside the dampers and the springs will no longer hang loose in the seats but for use poor folks loose is what happens unless you go dual springs or helpers.

HTH!
 

G.T

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Thanks for the sound advice buddy
i have a pair of 175lb springs on the way already.. i'll install those, weld my LCA relocation brackets (they've been bolted on only), and i'll move my front swaybar endlinks to the last hole (most aggressive setting) and see how that works.

btw, my car isn't as low as many think.. in fact many mustangs around with drop-in lowering springs from BMR, Steeda and Eibach sit lower than mine.
the GT500 front fascia make it seem a bit lower i guess.

eitherway, i've never had an issue with bottoming out (yet) so let's see
 

908ssp

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...and i'll move my front swaybar endlinks to the last hole (most aggressive setting) and see how that works......


"last hole"? at the end of the bar is the least aggressive. The hole closest to the bar is the most aggressive...if aggressive means it keeps the car the flattest. That will also increase understeer. The softest front setting with stiff rear bar increases oversteer.
 

G.T

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guess i'll leave that alone for now.. get my springs/shocks tune to a point i'm happy with them, then look into what i can do with the swaybars to improve cornering performance further
 

Thevesh

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I had the Steeda adjustables with front 225 and rear 200 for half a year. Front was too soft and rear was too stiff. Biggest problem was the dumping waves going from front to rear and back. Anyway 250 front and 175 rear worked best for me.
 

Sam Strano

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I had the Steeda adjustables with front 225 and rear 200 for half a year. Front was too soft and rear was too stiff. Biggest problem was the dumping waves going from front to rear and back. Anyway 250 front and 175 rear worked best for me.

That's more a damping issue. Changing the springs helped too because you changed the frequency of the suspension that way, but that's what dampers do. 200/175 is a common rate, and Steeda Comps are 225/185 and we don't have that issue.

I'm glad you solved it, but that's a situation where'd I'd recommend working the shocks (with some help if needed) first as the rates aren't all that weird. In fact stock rates are pretty similar front to rear.
 

Thevesh

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The worst thing I found, was the inability to work with stiffness and rebounce separate. I needed to make it softer but then I was driving like on a chariot. I admit I don't like the Tokicos much.
 

Sam Strano

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The worst thing I found, was the inability to work with stiffness and rebounce separate. I needed to make it softer but then I was driving like on a chariot. I admit I don't like the Tokicos much.

Ahh, yes... that is a problem with Tokico's and a big reason folks prefer Koni's. You can get the rebound you want without dragging the compression around too. That's why I prefer the Koni's, much easier to dial in and I can run a higher rebound setting without as much harm to the ride.
 

G.T

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if only there was a way to directly swap the tokico shocks/struts into koni's while retaining the height adjustability :(

i know the rear shocks are a straight forward swap, but the front struts are the issue
 
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