Spec 3+ help. Doesn't seem right.....

[J.Cagle]

I recently had my spec 3+ clutch, new transmission, new throw out/slave, and a hurst shifter installed. The first thing I noticed was that the Hurst shifter sucks ass. It is very "notchy" feeling. It has to "click" into each gear. You cant even shift fast with it. But thats not really my main concern. I know with the 3+ you have to wait for it to break into before it works smoothly. I have put almost 2,000 miles on it now and it still doesnt feel right. When you take off you cant easy into the clutch at all. Its all or nothing. So, when taking off and between gears its impossible to shift smoothly. Also, after it was installed when i back up it starts doing this stupid jerking thing. Any ideas? Does it just need to be re-bled or something?

 

[Marc s]

I recently had my spec 3+ clutch, new transmission, new throw out/slave, and a hurst shifter installed. The first thing I noticed was that the Hurst shifter sucks ass. It is very "notchy" feeling. It has to "click" into each gear. You cant even shift fast with it. But thats not really my main concern. I know with the 3+ you have to wait for it to break into before it works smoothly. I have put almost 2,000 miles on it now and it still doesnt feel right. When you take off you cant easy into the clutch at all. Its all or nothing. So, when taking off and between gears its impossible to shift smoothly. Also, after it was installed when i back up it starts doing this stupid jerking thing. Any ideas? Does it just need to be re-bled or something?

Welcome to the world of semi-metallic clutches. What you describe is the common complaint of the Spec clutch. The more you try and slip it, the hotter it gets, and the grabier it becomes. This is all to common with metallic single disc clutches in general. The Ram HD is the first single metallic that I have found that does not chatter. It is grabby as hell though.

 

[NastyStang113]

It's "normal" like Marc said. This is exactly why I didn't waste my time, the second time around LOL, and got the McLeod RST.

 

[J.Cagle]

Well shit. I did hours of research and had a thread up about discussing what clutch to buy. Everyone went on and on about how you couldnt beat the spec 3+. They all said once broke in, you would ever know it wasnt the stock clutch. This thing sucks. Plus the piece of shit Hurst short throw doesnt help. Frustrating.

 

[dysan]

I love my spec 3+ but I wanted a grabby & strong clutch for the track. I don't have any problems driving with it though and I can slip it when I want to. I don't know if it would make any difference but are you running the spec flywheel or just a re-surfaced OEM flywheel? I've got the spec billet steel flywheel.

 

[Hatchman]

I recently had my spec 3+ clutch, new transmission, new throw out/slave, and a hurst shifter installed. The first thing I noticed was that the Hurst shifter sucks ass. It is very "notchy" feeling. It has to "click" into each gear. You cant even shift fast with it. But thats not really my main concern. I know with the 3+ you have to wait for it to break into before it works smoothly. I have put almost 2,000 miles on it now and it still doesnt feel right. When you take off you cant easy into the clutch at all. Its all or nothing. So, when taking off and between gears its impossible to shift smoothly. Also, after it was installed when i back up it starts doing this stupid jerking thing. Any ideas? Does it just need to be re-bled or something?

What you just described fits my Hurst and Spec 3+ experience exactly. Sounds normal and bleeding probably won't hurt, or help.

I didn't like the notchy Hurst, and it would lock me out of third gear WOT shifts. MGW is much better and you might consider it if you see a good deal on a used one.

Good news is, the Spec 3+ won't slip. Mine never did "break in" and get "like stock" at all, still the same as the day I put it in. I have the lightweight Spec aluminum flywheel which really makes it worse, though it does rev really fast. Hopefully you have a steal one, and in that case be happy because it's worse with AL.

I'm just going to run it till it fries (22k miles so far and still the same/like new) and get a Mcleod RST.

 

[mac10chap]

My Spec 3+ was the same way. Fortunately, mine took a shit soon after install with uneven wear so I got the Exedy 500. Now, that is a clutch with stock like driveability.

 

[circusboy]

SPEC clutches are great for the older mustangs. They completely suck for the S197. I've been there, and have preached this ever since lol. If your gonna make any kind of power then you NEED, lol, a Mcleod clutch. RST or RXT, they are both awesome clutches. Worth the money and piece of mind

Just my 2 cents

 

[stkjock]

I have a 3+ and it broke in by 500 miles. It does have some room for engagement but certainly less then the stocker did. It grabs hard for sure. I have the OEM FW and original TOB. I have a MGW with it and have never had any issues with the clutch.

from what I've read it seems to be the installation where a lot of issues occur with the Specs

 

[mrmonk7663]

I have the spec stage 3 and aluminum flywheel. For the 15k miles I used it, I loved it. You had to get used to it but you didn't miss shifts when combined with a pro 5.0. I was making 465hp on a mustang dyno with this clutch.

 

[Blacksmoke]

SPEC is crap.
PERIOD.

At least for the S197 Mustang.
There are more problems on the SPECs on these cars than any other brand out there
if you look at the internet.

I had a 2+ .
I was told on the phone by SPEC these were great for everyday street driving...and mine sounded like I was fucking honking at people when I took off or downshifted. Also mixed in with a screeching noise.

SPEC tried to blame me saying it was the install.
I then told them a dealer installed it.
Then they blamed it on the slave cylinder until I told them I replaced it.
Then they blamed it on the break in period until I finished the break in period.
Then they blamed my driving and the way I was letting go of the clutch.
Then they said it was a problem never heard of.


Then finally I found a tech that said there were many reports of this problem.
I was told to drive it a week and if it did not get better they would replace my money
or give me new parts.

I did as they asked then called back.
I was then told I would NOT get a refund.
I was told the 2+ was more for track use after THEY SUGGESTED it as a great
clutch for the street!
Then I was told they would do an "investigation" on the parts and IF THEY found
something wrong with the parts they would NOT send me new parts but
fix the parts they had.

I jerked the piece of shit out of my car and threw it in the damn dumpster.
I knew they weren't gonna do shit to help me anyways.
So I ate the cost and went to a different brand.

I found countless numbers of complaints and stories of these
clutches failing or driving badly or sounding like crap after
my story happened.
In my opinion if you have a SPEC that works well
in these cars at least... you got LUCKY.

I'm not just saying that because of what happened to me.
I am saying that because of the countless number of horror
stories I have both read and heard.
I have even talked to shops that stop carrying SPEC because
of all the issues. They all say SPEC USED to be good but went
down the tube.

I WILL NEVER SUGGEST SPEC TO ANYONE. NOT EVEN MY WORST ENEMY.
They don't stand by their product at ALL and they lie to customers and treat
them like complete garbage. Just like their parts are garbage.

FUCK SPEC.

 

[ArtQ]

/\ /\ Hey! That sounds familiar!! LUCKY being the key word out of all that for the Spec lovers....

 

[mrmonk7663]

Wow...i'm not a Spec lover but I guess I did get lucky...I had no idea of all the issues. New motor = new clutch anyway so I guess maybe I should research other options.

 

[kcobra]

I've got a 2+ and love it. I had this on my 2.8 KB Saleen with 660 RWHP and 605 RWTQ with no issues at all. The 3+ is probably overkill. Just my opinion. I did get a faulty Stage 3 once but Spec sent me a brand new one. I sold it and got the 2+, I prefer this one.

 

[kahmann]

I've got a Spec 3+, FRPP aluminum flywheel, stock TOB, and Hurst shifter.
I'm used to the notchy shifter and actually kind of prefer it at this point. The clutch, however, blows. Why I skimped out and bought a single disc clutch during my build I'll never know. Next time this thing blows up though, I'm buying a McLeod.

 

[GT E UPP]

Well, I guess I must be one of the few lucky ones here... I have a Spec Super Twin Disk Clutch with Billet Aluminum Flywheel, Hurst Billet/Plus Shifter and Che K-Member Brace with Torque Limitors.
Running this combo on the street and happy so far.......

 

[stkjock]

the 2+ has proven for whatever reason not to be a good fit for the S197. The 3+ has shown to be a good choice in the vast majority of the cases

 

[JeremyH]

Well, I guess I must be one of the few lucky ones here... I have a Spec Super Twin Disk Clutch with Billet Aluminum Flywheel, Hurst Billet/Plus Shifter and Che K-Member Brace with Torque Limitors.
Running this combo on the street and happy so far.......

You have a twin, the issues seem to all be with the single disc specs and stiffer pressure plates.

IMHO It all comes down to this lol

Spec is craps/slots, a gamble..

Mcleoud RST/RXT is like counting cards at blackjack, jack pot everytime.

 

[Rasmus]

I have a 3+ and it broke in by 500 miles. It does have some room for engagement but certainly less then the stocker did. It grabs hard for sure. I have the OEM FW and original TOB. I have a MGW with it and have never had any issues with the clutch.

from what I've read it seems to be the installation where a lot of issues occur with the Specs

I've heard the same regarding the installation.

My 3+ didn't break in until over 1000 miles, but I like it now. I have absolutely no complaints. I even run the aluminium flywheel.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I have a stage 3+ and after 100mi it “broke in” and drove real nice. I’ve been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic a few times and it never gives me any trouble.

It was finicky on break in though. I’m guessing that the people who are having issues is because the clutch didn’t break in correctly.

At the track I put new brake pads in every day and if not broken in (bedded) perfectly they are garbage. There is no using them and no saving them. Like the Stage 3+ the pads are very aggressive. And aggressive friction materials have a much narrower margin of error.

I have no idea what a good break in procedure for the clutch is. Maybe I just got lucky. But I am sure there is a way to break them in where they work great and a whole bunch of ways of breaking them in that turn them to junk.