All nitrous guys....Come in!!!!

08gt4u

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That is exactly what I was thinking....That is why I am kinda skeptical about spraying out of the hole....I thought that to start spraying in 2nd would be safer than just gunning it all in first.....

you spray in second and youll be dissapointed in your times.
 

mikeysgt

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I agree. spraying at the hole makes a big difference in ET. I sprayed starting in 2nd gear once. ONCE.
 
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mikeysgt

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I, like the OP, am new to N20. To much time and money spent to chance it for me . Maybe with more experience comes more comfortability.

I was new to nitrous also. VERY new when I installed my own kit without ever doing anything like it before. never even did wiring like that either. I got a great tune for it. after the first couple of runs, I got really comfortable with it.
 

03Glock

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I, like the OP, am new to N20. To much time and money spent to chance it for me . Maybe with more experience comes more comfortability.
I was new to this once as well... I was scared to death to spray out of the hole. But once I did I never went back to spraying 2nd on.
 

Germeezy3

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An rpm window switch will prevent the nitrous from activating too early and prevent nitrous backfires. With the GM's a dry kit will prevent nitrous backfires as you can spray pre MAF and use the ECU's enrichment tables to add fuel but its not that easy on the Fords. I am surprised no one has mentioned a nano system as it maintains bottle pressure way easier than using a bottle heater.
 

waldogt07

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I am new to nitrous and I want to use it out of the hole but, my issue right now is not having the extra meat on the back to handle the torque that the nitrous is gonna throw at it.....I mean it is no fun to sit and spin or have to get out of it when racing.....so that is why I have all the questions about what to do.....I just want to make sure that I don't screw anything up and end up with a blown motor all because I did a screw up......but I know that most of it is in the tune it self .....
 

psfracer

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On my particular backfire I was lucky as there was no fire afterwards. Just a huge orange flash that went away, but it sounded like someone shot a .45 in the car! Like I said though, I must have sprayed 150+ times before it did this--and to this day I don't understand fully why it did.

In any case, engage the nitrous in 1st, but when you are over 3,000 rpm, and you should be fine. If I had an aftermarket converter that flashed to 3500 rpm, I don't think that backfire would have happened.

waldogt07---if you have a nearby source for 100 octane---use this when you know you are going to the track for 1/4 mile runs---trust me on this, its cheap insurance---the stock 3V piston has a very thin ring land to the top ring, its easy to damage. By putting in 100 octane your safety margin goes way up. Keep an eye on the plugs and bring extras (if you are running 125+). If there are problems, it will show up on the plug first.

rodtoothbrush.jpg
 

05stroker

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On my particular backfire I was lucky as there was no fire afterwards. Just a huge orange flash that went away, but it sounded like someone shot a .45 in the car! Like I said though, I must have sprayed 150+ times before it did this--and to this day I don't understand fully why it did.

In any case, engage the nitrous in 1st, but when you are over 3,000 rpm, and you should be fine. If I had an aftermarket converter that flashed to 3500 rpm, I don't think that backfire would have happened.

waldogt07---if you have a nearby source for 100 octane---use this when you know you are going to the track for 1/4 mile runs---trust me on this, its cheap insurance---the stock 3V piston has a very thin ring land to the top ring, its easy to damage. By putting in 100 octane your safety margin goes way up. Keep an eye on the plugs and bring extras (if you are running 125+). If there are problems, it will show up on the plug first.

rodtoothbrush.jpg
Man, I cant believe I made 550 rwhp on one of those tooth brush rods . LOL
 

NUTCASE

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Anyone running a dry shot?

dry shots are a challenge becuase N2O itself does not make the power, you need the fuel to make the power. Also without the fuel the combustion temps will skyrocket and you will kill your motor in short order.

dry shots usually work by somehow tricking the ecu or fuel system into dumping more fuel when the nitrous is activated. This is far less accurate then running a wet kit.

Hence why dry kits are usually like 30hp or something. Find my somebody shooting 100 shot dry.


I am glad I found this thread. I saved almost all my parts when I pulled the spray out of my car, if I wanted to spray it right now, bare bones-ing it all I need is a fuel noid. I even have 2 full bottles that have been sitting around for over 2 years.
 

46addict

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What is the jetting combo needed to run a 125 shot? Those who have dyno numbers, can you post your jet settings?

My calculator is showing 53# nitrous and 31# fuel, assuming 39lb fuel rail pressure and 1000psi at the bottle.
 

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