Radiator fan drawing to much power issue?

2013 5.0
Ive replaced the pigtail twice and now im about to make a third. Lol starting to run outta wire. But should i replace the fan? Idk wtf to do. I was thinking the a1auto?

It sounds like your fan motor is failing and drawing an excessive amount of current, causing the wiring to overheat. The solution is to replace the fan (GT500 fan is a direct fit) and future proof the wiring with the wireeverything.com harnesses.

Measure the current the motor is drawing, go from there.

Dino Dino Bambino said:

It sounds like your fan motor is failing and drawing an excessive amount of current, causing the wiring to overheat. The solution is to replace the fan (GT500 fan is a direct fit) and future proof the wiring with the wireeverything.com harnesses.

Cooling Fan

Upgrades and repair solutions related to vehicle cooling fans.

wireeverything.com

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This is it OP.

I put the wireeverything relay relocation kit on my car proactively and it’s great. Literally plug and play and saves your BEC from melting.

Is there any actual instructions

slick50h said:

Is there any actual instructions

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I have done both my 2012 GT (MT-82) and my 2014 GT (6R80) as Dino has suggested, before I had any issues. That solution works great. You can probably find a YouTube video regarding the fan swap. If your car is an automatic, you will need to find a way to tie up the auto trans cooler lines, as the GT500 fan in intended for a manual car. I used some heavy wire ties to attach them to the inner fender area on my 2014 GT. One thing I found helpful was detaching the upper radiator hose from the radiator end to allow more room to maneuver the old fan out and the new fan in. You can find the GT 500 fan on Summit or other parts suppliers websites. Search for this part number: FMS-M-8C607-MSVT

As mentioned several times on this thread, the fan assembly has most likely seen better days and is drawing way too much current to run, thus overheating the wires in the circuit. Repairing the wires is only part of the issue for what's going on with the fan. As mentioned, the Fan assembly needs to be replaced. You never mentioned how many miles the car has on it, but even if it's not a high number, the fan assembly wiring circuit on these S197s is very suspect and grossly undersized to handle the long-term current needs required to safely operate the fan assembly without some sort of inconvenient failure.

Having said that. If you have ensured the wiring from the fan connector all the way through the BEC (fuse Box) is intact, not overheated or even partially melted, then just buying a new standard fan assembly would fix your issue.

I would warn you that buying the 2013 FP SVT 7 Blade GT500 fan upgrade with your factory wiring would not be a good idea. The 12-gauge wiring in the circuit would be even more stressed with the current draw required to run that GT500 fan assembly. If you do shell out the cash for that FP SVT GT500 fan assembly, which flows about 37% more air than the standard fan assembly and it works great, then you really need to ensure wire integrity and install the wireeverything dual relay harness assembly. That harness uses 8-gauge wire and externalizes the amp draw and removes the BEC from the higher-amp circuit. Below are just some facts about this very common issue with these cars.


* I installed the 2013 FP SVT 7 Blade cooling fan on my GT500, plus installed that wireeverything dual relay harness assembly. It's the only way to go to bulletproof the S197 cooling system. I have also reset my Low and high Fan on/off settings to get more consistent and lower average engine temps. My low-speed fan comes on at 206, and my high-speed fan comes on at 216. My high-speed fan has never come on. The low-speed fan with the added CFM from the FP SVT 7 Blade 2013 fan assembly moves plenty of air to cool even in temps at 100+- degrees outside.

2013 FP 7 Blade GT500 Cooling fan.]


Wireeverything.com dual relay harness assembly.


Comparison stats.









The difference is the wire gauge amp ratings. You can see the S197 12-gauge wire in this circuit is very limited in capacity, thus the long-term melting issues.

I bet this started after a tune.

Nah i got a 2013 5.0 manual has like 160k miles.
I replaced the fan once with an oem and the problem happened again and i changed the pigtails twice. I think ill try getting the wire everything kit and go from there. Prolly new fan too

Thanks for everyone help and input

Althought one last question, hooking up the wire everything harness, wheres the stud for the power? Under the fuse box? Anyone got a video link?

slick50h said:

Althought one last question, hooking up the wire everything harness, wheres the stud for the power? Under the fuse box? Anyone got a video link?

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It goes on positive lead on the SJB, which is the side closest to the strut tower, then I have kind grounded on the strut tower ground.

Whats sjb stand for

The power wire goes under that Red Cover


The ground wire goes on the back side of the passenger strut tower.

Hell ya thank you. Is there like a nut and stud under it?

slick50h said:

Hell ya thank you. Is there like a nut and stud under it?

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Yep. A power cable and bolt. The bottom wire in this pic is the main Fuse box power wire, and the top wire is the new harness power wire with the bolt going down through both. You might have to modify the main bolt wire just a bit to get it to separate from the main power cable bolt. They have built it so the bolt will not separate from the main power cable. I will attach pics. I filed the two little tabs back just enough to remove the main bolt holding the cable down, and then attached the harness power wire on top of the main power cable.

These little cable tabs grip the bolt, so you need to file them back to remove the bolt(I used a small bit Dremel tool), but I imagine some people just put the new harness terminal cable under the main Fuse box cable and call it a day. But doing that just doesn't allow the two power wires to sit flush and provide the most surface contact. It's a personal choice, but having the original Fuse Box power wire flush with its original placement and putting the new harness power wire on top of it makes the best contact, as seen in my #16 post image.