05MoneyPit. Iron block Build

05moneypit

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Figured I would post up some pictures and information as the build moves along. My car is basically a drag car that I run in a 10.50 index class. Car is still (for time being) street driven some.

After my disaster with the NVH block I spent a couple weeks trying to find another good aluminum block but didn't have any success. Found a bunch of Teksids but none that I felt comfortable with. I'm using the same CP pistons that have been in my last two engines and they are the +.002 so I needed a good standard bore block that would clean up with a light hone.

BruceH gave me a lead on a brand new still in the crate Romeo block and I was able to pick it up cheap. Now before anyone goes off the deep end on me I know the Iron block is not as strong as the NVH and Teksid and is also 80lb heavier. The Romeo will handle all the power I need to make so that isn't an issue. The extra 80lb on the front of the car will take some suspension adjustments to get the car to launch well but won't be an issue.

So first thing was to get measurements for motor mounts. I thought about just using my fabricated steel mounts from my Teksid builds but decided to make adapter plates and use the OEM mounts. The only difference between the Teksid and the Romeo is there is one more bolt hole on each side of the block.

The adapter plates are made 1/4" thick steel. I laid out the holes and drilled them and checked them for fit on the block. Next was to plasma cut the extra stock from them. Since I'm adding an extra 1/4" to the side of the block with the plates I needed to remove that from the OEM mounts by milling 1/4" of the back of them.

Right now the block is at Street Leathal Performance getting honed and I should have it back the first of the week.

Here are a few in process pictures.







Here is a comparison of my fabricated Teksid mounts to the adapter plates and OEM mounts for the iron block.

 
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05moneypit

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Little help please.

Need some help finding a part number or cross reference. I need the oil passage plugs for the block. I ordered the chain guide pins, cover dowels what we thought were the correct plugs for the Romeo block at the dealer....... F1AZ-6026-E but the plugs are to small. Everything else is correct. The plugs in the Romeo are both the same size and are the same size as the front plug in a NVH block. They measure .54 so they are to big to just tap for 1/4" NPT and I don't think there is enough material at the back of the block to drill it up to for a 3/8" NPT. Also would be a whole bunch simpler to just put a plug in and stake it. Thanks.

Lee

This plug.

 

05xgt

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Nice work on the mount, but do you think a single gusset will be strong enough? ESP if you're making the kind of power you're gonna need to put it in the 10s? Idk
 

05moneypit

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The steel ones held up just fine when I went up 1/4" plate. First set I made was 3/16" and they did start to bend but that was also when I was pushing it into the 9's.

I'm going to use the stock mounts with the adapters on the iron block.
 

05moneypit

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Well I missed this in my research.........grrrrrr

Apparently Ford didn't feel it necessary to cut the counter weight clearence on the center main in the older Romeo blocks, so my forged crank will only rotate about 30*

For those that don't understand, a cast crank does not have counter weights at the center main journal like a forged unit so there would not be a clearence issue with a cast crank.

It isn't really a huge deal...just a PITA, I can set it up in my mill and cut the clearence. Just sucks that I didn't catch it before I spent 2 hours this morning scrubbing the block and prepping it for assembly.

Oh well such is life....here are a couple pictures.

Area circled on the left shows what the proper clearence cut should be to clear a forged crank. On the right is the un-machined area.



In the wash tank getting final cleaning....Aluminum blocks are sure a lot easier to move around by hand....The iron is just more than I can man handle around.....think I need a little jib hoist in the garage....lol



 

stkjock

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From what I've read some of the Romeo's do have those reliefs in them. Not sure it it matters what year the block is from as to if they do have them.
 

05moneypit

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From what I've read some of the Romeo's do have those reliefs in them. Not sure it it matters what year the block is from as to if they do have them.

Yep, the 03/04 Cobra uses a Romeo and since it came stock with a Forged crank the clearence cut is there.

It's not a big deal, just wish I had caught it sooner is all. Hopefully this thread will keep someone else from having the same issue.
 

05moneypit

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Can anyone that has done an older iron block build tell me if this is going to be an issue.

The Romeo uses press in pins (Ford PN N806040-S) for the hinged chain guide and they don't have the shoulder like the screw in pins so the arm is just kind of floating on the pin.

Do I need to use 2V chain guides? Thanks.

Lee

Picture of the gap from guide to block. It is about 2.5mm

 

05moneypit

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OK. Talked to my local mod motor guru and he said that the guide clearence isn't an issue and that the 2v and 3v guides are the same. Also found out that the lower bolt hole for the fixed chain guide on the right side was not a tapped hole but rather a reamed pin hole. So I made 3/8x24 threaded bushing for the 6mm guide bolt. Drilled and tapped the block and threaded it in with 262 loctite.

As for the earlier problem of the crank to block clearence that was just a matter of about 20 minutes work with a die grinder and carbide burr to make the needed clearence and then wash the block again.

Fixed guide bolt hole.








Something I did a few years ago since I have had this engine apart so many times was to number the lash adjusters and cam followers with an air pencil so I didn't have to try and keep them seperate. I just numbered them R1-R12 and L1-L12....front to back right and left bank.

 

TurboX

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Can anyone that has done an older iron block build tell me if this is going to be an issue.

The Romeo uses press in pins (Ford PN N806040-S) for the hinged chain guide and they don't have the shoulder like the screw in pins so the arm is just kind of floating on the pin.

Do I need to use 2V chain guides? Thanks.

Lee

Picture of the gap from guide to block. It is about 2.5mm


I had same concerns with my Boss Block build, I was told its normal and nothing to do about it. I was especially concerned cause I had major carnage in timing chains and guides on a previous motor.
 

05moneypit

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Got it fired up this morning. All appears fine. Trying to get some dyno time lined up on short notice so I can race it Saturday.
 

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