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Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by kstall, Feb 23, 2021.
Lito's the man!
So let me ask this while this thread is going...we installed the Hurst shifter Friday afternoon and it is real nice. My question is how much play is acceptable in the shifter? I'm talking side to side play. The oem had a ton of play and this one is better, but it seems like it could use some kind of adjustment to get the play out. My boy doesn't mind and he's the one driving it but I guess I'm OCD and things like that bother me lo
I have the hurst in mine and it’s real notchy. No play at all and it’s been 10+ years, but it only has 22k miles (don’t know if mileage would make a different on other components).
My Hurst is so notchy I'm actually not a huge fan (and I have a near OEM length shift arm). I occasionally upshift from 3rd to 5th, and for awhile it was near impossible without feeling I was forcing it.
Exactly why I bought a MGW, but I haven’t installed it yet.
This one actually shifts very well into each gear. Its just the side to side (left-right) slack in the shifter that worries me.
My other Stang has a Pro-5.0. Love it! I've heard nothing but good about the MGW's - Vette's, Stang's, Camaro's.
There's actually a lot of hate online for the Hurst and I can see why. OP, hopefully you figure it out! Good luck.
So we just took the stang to the shop to have the 4:10's installed. Should have it back Monday. Got back home and the cams were on the door step. The timing wedge tool is still on back order. So it's slowly coming together.
But just to reiterate, the slop we have in the shifter isn't the fault of the Hurst so we have no issues whatsoever with it. The slop was there already. I was hoping the Hurst would tighten it up but no dice on that. I'm guessing its in the linkage perhaps.
The hurst was on my car when I got it so I don’t know any better (don’t wanna compare it to my civic si econobox lol). I picked up the MGW in like new condition for $125 so I went ahead and made the jump.
I bet yours is gonna be nasty with the 4:10’s and the cams. I have 3:55’s and my low end is terrible. I plan on going boost eventually, otherwise I’d make the jump to 4:10’s probably as well.
Yeah I think my son is going to be real happy, and I'm happy for him. I mean I can occasionally take it out for a spin right??? lol
He would love to go boost but that's a bit rich for our wallets. Cams, gears, and tune and I think he will just fine. I was watching him in the rearview as we were headed to the shop...I gotta say his cars looks badass. Got an aggressive stance and just looks like it wants to rumble. Once he saves up for long tubes its gonna be a beast for what it is
This got me curious, so I did some poking around. Happened upon another forum addressing the same issue, and low and behold, our resident expert had posted some of his expertise! Maybe we can get him to weigh in here too. His thoughts on possible side-to-side wear in the shifter:
That is exactly the piece that I noticed was loose when we were installing the shifter.
So this is the guide I'm using for the cam install. Anyone have any comments on this?
Before you start, check to see if you have the timing marks on the crank pulley. Mine did not have them and I read in a couple of places not all do.
After installing the timing chain wedge, take a piece of wire and wrap around the timing chain directly under the cam gear and pull the chain together as tight as possible and tie off with tension pulling it upwards. This is an extra safety measure in case the wedge gets bumped and comes loose so the chain does not fall off the bottom end. Take your time, it’s not that hard. Good Luck
When we installed the cai i looked for the timing marks and didnt see any. Just saw a couple small holes and that was it. If it doesn't have the marks then what do I do??
There is a way to determine TDC for #1. I’ll see if I can find it. Hopefully, someone else can jump in. It’s not hard, just watching valves move as you turn crank with wrench.
2005-2010 MUSTANG GT HIGH LIFT HOT ROD CAM SET| Part Details for M-6550-3V | Ford Performance Parts
This is the link to the Hot Rod cams on Ford Performance Parts website. You'll see the link to download the installation instructions .pdf for those cams.
I would've posted the actual .pdf here but it is too large. This .pdf covers what Laga is suggesting concerning the cam lobe positions on #1 & #5 cyls to determine when the engine is at #1 TDC firing position then to determine where the HB timing marks (if present) should be to reference from.
Hope this helps.
You may find that your cam bearing caps are not numbered or marked for orientation. Be carful to keep them in order and oriented the some way they came off. Mark them with a marker or scribe.
These are the instructions I referred to the most.
There was a video at one time, but most of the links are dead.
You can also search for Detroit Rocker cam install, because the instructions are exactly the same and there's a couple of them out there, along with videos.
I used the valve spring tool to remove the springs when I took everything apart. A lot of guys don't. They just loosen the bearing caps equally. Same with the install. Because of my back problems, I cheated and did not use the tool for reinstalling. I laid new cam in place and assembled everything finger tight making sure cam was parallel to head. Then tightened each bearing cap bolt 1-2 turns in proper sequence from instructions. This prevents cam from being bent. It was time consuming but worked.