06 Gt Hot Rod cam install

[kstall]

So i ordered new plugs and the extraction tool just in case any break off. We will just hold off til next week when all that comes in and tackle it all at once. Stay tuned

 

[Laga]

So i ordered new plugs and the extraction tool just in case any break off. We will just hold off til next week when all that comes in and tackle it all at once. Stay tuned

Make a 50/50 solution of acetone and ATF. Fill the holes where the plugs are and soak as long as possible. At least overnight. Remove the solution. This should/may help with the removal of the plugs without them breaking.

 

[DieHarder]

There are tons of youtube vids on this. I've found the hot engine/impact gun method to tease them out works quite well. I've broken three using the soak method while never breaking one using the impact method. Up to you of course which way you choose to go.

This vid demonstrates the method on a couple of 5.4 3v's which are the worst. Each offers some useful tidbits to avoid breakage. Good luck.

 

[Enfield]

Add 1/2 bottle of Berryman B12 Chemtool injector cleaner to your gas tank and drive 100 miles. Cleans off all the deposits below the threads, and that's what causes plugs to stick. Worked for me.
Enfield

 

[kstall]

Bought an impact wrench as well so Im gonna try that route. And if I get lucky and none break Ill just return the extraction tool.

 

[07 Boss]

The one tip this old timer can give you all about the plugs in our early 3 valves is to pull them periodically and check them. When I was running at the track I would pull them before and after every session. Now that she is retired from racing they come out about once a year. It is not as important as it used to be with all of our on-board diagnostics and stuff, it's more about old habits with me. I don't necessarily read them like we used to but it will give you a chance to clean them up a bit and reapply anti-seize to the plug barrels, and this will prevent any crazy carbon build up or issues with galling between the heads and plug threads (do not put anti-seize on the threads). Just a couple of words of wisdom from someone who has never had a plug breaking issue.

 

[kstall]

07 Boss, feel free to impart wisdom anytime. I need all I can get

 

[kstall]

So the Brisk plugs and removal tool came in yesterday. Anyone know what I should set the gap at on these?

https://www.americanmuscle.com/brisk-silver-sparkplugs-3VR17YS.html

 

[07 Boss]

It's pretty big like .042 or .045 I think. Mine are set at .030 but I have a different set up.

 

[RED09GT]

0.054" is what is recommended for mid 08-10 cars so I would try that as the combustion chamber shape is the same.

 

[kstall]

This is for an 06 model

 

[Pentalab]

The one tip this old timer can give you all about the plugs in our early 3 valves is to pull them periodically and check them. When I was running at the track I would pull them before and after every session. Now that she is retired from racing they come out about once a year. It is not as important as it used to be with all of our on-board diagnostics and stuff, it's more about old habits with me. I don't necessarily read them like we used to but it will give you a chance to clean them up a bit and reapply anti-seize to the plug barrels, and this will prevent any crazy carbon build up or issues with galling between the heads and plug threads (do not put anti-seize on the threads). Just a couple of words of wisdom from someone who has never had a plug breaking issue.

What's wrong with putting anti-seize on the threads ?? Marine grade never seize is rated for a stupid high temp..used in jet engines.

I'm thinking once he has the new Brisk, one piece plugs installed....put some never seize on the threads...or is that a big no-no ?

 

[RED09GT]

This is for an 06 model

I fully understand that your car is a 2006.
I will attempt to simplify this:

There was no recommendation for an '06 because you are supposed to use the spark plugs out of the box and the gap is not considered adjustable.
Therefore, there is no recommendation for spark plug gap for a 2006 Mustang GT.

In mid 2008, Ford stopped using their stupid design that heavily shrouded the flame front and redesigned the spark plug tube to a superior design that uses a spark plug that the gap can be adjusted on and eliminated that area where deposits built up and made them extremely difficult to remove between the threads and the spark plug tip.
Since the spark plug gap can now be adjusted, Ford recommended a gap of 0.054" for all the later models that use a nearly identical motor.

The car will still run with a gap as small as 0.022" and as wide as 0.065", determining what is ideal will take some guess and test.

 

[RED09GT]

What's wrong with putting anti-seize on the threads ?? Marine grade never seize is rated for a stupid high temp..used in jet engines.

I'm thinking once he has the new Brisk, one piece plugs installed....put some never seize on the threads...or is that a big no-no ?

Mostly because the anti-seize works as a lubricant and then the plugs get over tightened-even though it feels like less resistance to the ratchet. This can cause the porcelain to crack from the metal shell distorting during tightening.

Another reason is that a lot of people are sloppy and either get some of it on the porcelain and since most anti-seize compounds have a conductible metal or substance (Nickel, copper, silver, graphite) it can be a source of a misfire as some of that current can bleed to the head rather than the tip of the plug.

Third reason is that the early 3v heads don't have a problem with the threads seizing to the heads, it is that shank between the threads and the tip that gets seized to the tube.

 

[kstall]

I fully understand that your car is a 2006.
I will attempt to simplify this:

There was no recommendation for an '06 because you are supposed to use the spark plugs out of the box and the gap is not considered adjustable.
Therefore, there is no recommendation for spark plug gap for a 2006 Mustang GT.

In mid 2008, Ford stopped using their stupid design that heavily shrouded the flame front and redesigned the spark plug tube to a superior design that uses a spark plug that the gap can be adjusted on and eliminated that area where deposits built up and made them extremely difficult to remove between the threads and the spark plug tip.
Since the spark plug gap can now be adjusted, Ford recommended a gap of 0.054" for all the later models that use a nearly identical motor.

The car will still run with a gap as small as 0.022" and as wide as 0.065", determining what is ideal will take some guess and test.

Thanks for that info. I really appreciate it. I'll gap em at .054" roll with it. With any luck we will doing the install Thursday

 

[GlassTop09]

Just to put this out here for informational purposes for owners of a '05-'10 S197 Mustang......

From the Chilton Manual for Ford Mustang 05-10 #26609 Section 1 Tune Up & Maintenance, #23 Spark Plug Check & Replacement, pg 1-28 specific, step #10 (partial quote):
"Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads.........(rest of step gives instruction on installing & tightening spark plug in cylinder head w\ either a torque wrench or a ratchet)".

This step applies to both the 4.0L V6 as well as the 4.6L V8 on the MY's given. FYI Chilton gets all this directly from Ford Mustang Workshop Manuals so they didn't make this up out of the blue.

Now how\why you deviate from this is up to the individual. If you also think I made this up go check the manual for yourselves.

FYI.

 

[RED09GT]

I can see the arguments for both, with the key being a small amount if you do use it.

Personally, I don't use it on spark plugs.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I have used nickel or aluminum based anti seize on spark plugs and igniters for decades. Never a problem if you pay attention to what you are doing.

 

[Laga]

I’ve always used anti-sieize on spark plugs. Reduce setting on torque wrench 10%. Use a small amount and be careful where it goes. Don’t be sloppy. Same with lug nuts.

 

[RED09GT]

To each their own but this isn't the 1970's anymore. Materials engineering has changed a lot since then.
I use anti-seize where it is called for it but never on spark plugs or lug nuts.